Drying the wood for the benchwork

[88gta350]

Does it make a difference where and how wood is dryed? I recently bought the wood for my benchwork and need to let it air out for a while. Where's the best place? Wherever it will dry out the fastest? Where it will ultmately be constructed? Does it matter? I have it in a detached garage that is subject to all the humidity changes of outside air, is this alright or should it be somewhere drier?

What about positiioning? Lay it down on the ground? Stand it up on end? Other? These questions probably aren't that important, but I'm curious as to what's the best way.

[tomwatkins]

I think opinions will vary tremendously on this, and it will probably depend on how big the temperature and humidity swings are. I normally store my lumber and plywood in the basement standing up which allows air circulation around it. This workshop area isn't climate controled while the railroad room is. I haven't had any big problems with material shrinking or warping. In a garage you will probably have larger swings in temp and humidity. A dehumidifier might help to even things out.

Hope this helps,
Tom Watkins

[orsonroy]

I kept what little lumber I used in layout construction in the basement to dry. Since I mostly used 2x2s and 1x2s, I did keep them bundled, since drying thin stock tends to bow and warp a LOT if left loose.

Once the benchwork is up, adding two coats of interior latex paint will help seal the wood, keeping it from wild dimensional swings due to humidity and heat changes.

[dknelson]

I found I had best results when the wood went through at least one entire season in the basement before being used. Plywood is best of stored perfectly flat -- it can take on a curve if it leans against something.
I realize this is not practical for a lot of people. That is why I do like to find a place that sells lumber that is stored under cover and protected from the elements. Particularly for 2x2s (legs) that really seem prone to warping because the pine used is this generically engineered fast growing stuff that has little real strength to it.
By the way has anyone priced wood lately? Yikes!
Dave Nelson

[dave9999]

What kind of wood are you using?

If you buy white pine, it is already kiln dried and should not need any additional
drying.

If you use pressure treated (not recomended unless it contacts a concrete surface)
you should let it dry completely,as PT wood will shrink as it dries. It will also warp
as it dries.

Pine plywood or other untreated sheet material also requires no dry time.

"SYP" (Southern yellow pine) is also pre-dried, but is hard to work with. It tends to
crack and split. Hope this helps. Dave

[dickiee]

Wood purchased from a lumber yard that has been kiln dried does not have to be "dried" further unless you live in Death Vally or Arizona. The biggest problem with kiln dried lumber is keeping it from re absorbing moisture from the air. Unless you seal the wood from the air, which is nearly impossible to do completely, your wood will take on the moisture content of the air in which it is stored. As it takes on moisture the wood tends to warp and bow depending on the grade of the wood. The cheaper the grade of wood the more tendency to bow and warp. I am fortunate enough to live in an area where there are sawmills and the wood is mostly air dried. Of course any manufactured lumber (plywood and PT) is not included and needs to be treated differently. Lumber should never be stored directly on the ground or on concrete. If it hasn't adjusted itself to your humidity level you should stack it with 1" stickers between the boards and then weight on top of the stack. Even then if the board is going to warp there is not a lot you can do about it. If it is already adjusted then you can stack it in a solid stack but not directly on the ground or concrete. I think you probably don't need to worry too much as long as you are not trying to build furniture with it.

[Big_Boy_4005]

I like to use it right away while it is still moist. Even though it has been kiln dried, there is still a fair amount of moisture left. What I have found is that by building with it right away I can get it to conform to the shape that I put it in. If allowed to dry it can warp and deform more and is nearly impossible to get back into shape.

[dave9999]

Elliot,
True. Kiln dried wood does contain a small amount of moisture, but ONLY a small amount. It's not
"wet" enough to be real concerned with letting it dry. Besides it has had plenty of time to dry from the
time it was milled, shipped, and sitting in a lumber supply warehouse. Even the suppliers who have
outdoor storage, store their untreated wood out of the weather.

Now, years ago, when people accually bought wood fresh from the saw mill, time was needed to allow
wood to dry. But today, thanks to modern shipping and machinery, the local saw mill is very rare. Home
Depot and Lowe's put a stop to that.

I guess what I'm trying to say is go to Home Depot, buy some wood, go home and start building. Who
has time to wait for wood to dry these days?[:)] Dave

[88gta350]

Thanks for the answers guys, I bought white pine from Lowe's, so I guess my next day off will be spent building before it absorbs any more moisture!

[Big_Boy_4005]

I'm with you there Dave, I hate to wait. Sometimes I wonder if the kilns haven't been turned down, or the standard lowered, because some of the wood I've bought seems pretty wet, even if it has been stored indoors.

What I have noticed is things like 1x4's and 2x4's that are straight when I pick them, tend to twist or bow if left unused for even a couple of weeks. Also when assembling benchwork with drywall screws, the fresh wood has less tendancy to split even without being countersunk.

The truth is, I don't think you want the wood to be extremely dry, unless you want to start a fire with it. Houses are built with lumber the moment it's delivered from the yard.

[dave9999]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

I'm with you there Dave, I hate to wait. Sometimes I wonder if the kilns haven't been turned down, or the standard lowered, because some of the wood I've bought seems pretty wet, even if it has been stored indoors.

What I have noticed is things like 1x4's and 2x4's that are straight when I pick them, tend to twist or bow if left unused for even a couple of weeks. Also when assembling benchwork with drywall screws, the fresh wood has less tendancy to split even without being countersunk.

The truth is, I don't think you want the wood to be extremely dry, unless you want to start a fire with it. Houses are built with lumber the moment it's delivered from the yard.

One reason that the wood is not as dry as it could be is that lumber companies can barely keep up with demand. Which probably explains the
paint on the edges of OSB still being wet when it arrives at the lumber yard.
I come home many days with red or blue (depends on where I bought the
OSB) paint all over my clothes.
Dave

[retsignalmtr]

the best way to store wood is to lay it horizontly with sticks between each layer to allow air to circulate around it. most wood is kiln dried and does not need any furthar drying,but you may want to bring the wood into the room that you are going to use it in several days ahead of time for it to acclimate to the conditions in that room. DO NOT USE PRESSURE TREATED WOOD INDOORS, unless it is going to be touching damp concrete floors or walls and will be covered by plywood. OSB should also not be used indoors due to fumes from the adheasive being emitted into the air

[Big_Boy_4005]

QUOTE: Originally posted by retsignalmtr

the best way to store wood is to lay it horizontly with sticks between each layer to allow air to circulate around it. most wood is kiln dried and does not need any furthar drying,but you may want to bring the wood into the room that you are going to use it in several days ahead of time for it to acclimate to the conditions in that room. DO NOT USE PRESSURE TREATED WOOD INDOORS, unless it is going to be touching damp concrete floors or walls and will be covered by plywood. OSB should also not be used indoors due to fumes from the adheasive being emitted into the air

What you say about pressure treated lumber may no longer be true. There is a new formulation that I believe does not use arsenic. I still don't recommend it for any model railroading activities, but it is not as bad as it used to be. Furthermore all newer homes with basements, including my own, have some pressure treated lumber inside. My understanding is that unless you cut it, burn it, or lick it, it should pose no health threat.

I have never heard any such thing about OSB. The glue used in that product should be the same glue used in plywood. Most new homes have that product as their subfloors, and all engineered lumber is made the same way. With that said, I would still not recommend using OSB for a model railroad because it isn't very smooth.

[grayfox1119]

I have used PT lumber for many years. Until recently, Arsenic was used in the process. All PT lumber now sold , especially from Lowes' and HD, no longer use Arsenic. So put that fear away. There is no reason to use expensive PT lumber anyways, unless it comes in contact with dampness, or your basement is subject to occasional water leakage.
I too, use pine lumber right away because it does not split like dry wood, and once it is fastened into place, it goes nowhere if done correctly. If you are still concerned however, and you have the $$ to spend, you can use wood other than pine, like oak, birch, maple, and poplar, all sold at Lowes' and HD. Believe me, that wood will stay to form, and is as strong as an ox. But, boy is it expensive.
I bought several pieces of 1x4 #2 pine at the local HD last year for a table project for my wife. It sat flat, off the floor, for about 3 weeks. One piece that was as straight as an arrow when I purchased it, looked like a pretzle. So go for it right away.
Best of luck with your layout Dave,

***[:)]

[krump]

QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy

I kept what little lumber I used in layout construction in the basement to dry. Since I mostly used 2x2s and 1x2s, I did keep them bundled, since drying thin stock tends to bow and warp a LOT if left loose.

Once the benchwork is up, adding two coats of interior latex paint will help seal the wood, keeping it from wild dimensional swings due to humidity and heat changes.

excellent ideas[:p] - but now my benchwork will be pink and purple(?) [8D]since we just painted the girls room and have leftover paint
cheers