Wood Kit Question

[ChadLRyan]

Although I have not gotten back at it, I was planning on hand brushing on the trim color.

Have best of luck with your build!

[arvanlaa]

Awesome advice Chad! Thank you :)

And those grey flecks I was talking about... pulpy would have been the right word to describe them. That is exactly what I had. Hopefully sometime this week I can get started on this kit and see what happens.

Did you spray the trim or paint with a brush?

[CTValleyRR]

You might find that an airbrush works much better than a rattle can for this application.

Also, I've found that if you apply a layer of acrylic sealant to the model (wood or cardstock) prior to painting, this helps a lot with both paint absorption and coverage.

Acrylic sealants are available at most art supply stores (I bought my last bottle at Michael's).

[ChadLRyan]

If you do spray it with a can run the can under hot tap water in the sink & agitate the can to warm it up, Doing that will raise the pressure in the can & make the paint spray in a finer mist, also don't get too close to the walls with the nozzle. I think you can paint it with a can of you are very light in about 3 coats. As it dries it will look better & better. Also the cardstock is very absorbant, as it may look dark until the paint color begins to stay on the surface & not soak in anymore. One other note, on my kit when looking at the walls & trim sheet, mine had a very miniature pulpy speckled pattern similar to OSB or MDF, my paint covered that up as the color built up. When painting the trim do not bump them when wet, they are really soft from the thinner/wetness of the paint. I used as thin as possible Double Stick non permanent Poster Tape cut into thin strips.  Hope that helps, I think that is most of what I may have forgot to mention.

[wp8thsub]

Chad - Thanks for the post.  Good to know how the laser-etched cardstock retains its detail after painting.  Plus I'm glad to see the manufacturer responding above as well.  GC Laser has a few kits I'm really interested in, but they do have the cardstock appliques.  Based on this tread I think I'll go ahead and get them.

[arvanlaa]

Wow thats fantastically opportune for me that you have the exact same kit! Your description of what you did will be very handy :) I have a question though, I dont have an airbrush (being the poor college student I am) but if I use a spray can, and apply as fine a coat as I can, do you think I can still get the siding to show through?

[ChadLRyan]

Guess what I got!!!
Yup, I think it may be the kit in question here.
My kit  #1901, is all cardstock, with exception to the front steps which are micro-ply. In this picture I am showing the sub base structure, painted siding sheet, & painted trim parts. I hand painted the trim parts, using Floquil Reefer white, & Roof brown, after trying to determine which parts went where. I airbrushed the siding sheet with Depot Buff, & as you may know, the Floquil dead flats can.. ghost, ash, frost, or otherwise build up unevenly, which I will refer to as 'sooting' -where it does not lay down smoothly, but has a 'sooty'appearance. This mix was a little on the thick side, but not severe, if it were a locomotive, I may have added just s few drops more of thinner, it was borderline. However, despite that, I laid it in pretty hard & it did NOT fill the laser scribed lines, so I think anyone can paint these without much issue. I did modify the kit to include an Omni LED (meaning it is a wide angle reflector & lens unit), & added a couple shelves using scrap from the frets.  Next, I will paint the trim on the siding & then apply them to the substructure.  More to follow!

[rrebell]

doctorwayne

I have it from a reliable source that the lines are laser-etched, and should still be visible after the wall has been painted (unless, of course, you have a heavy hand when painting ).  The material is matte board (same stuff as used when framing pictures) and is used because it's more stable than micro plywood and also cheaper, so it helps to keep costs down.  The visible fibres, though, are a concern, so I'm hoping that the owner of GCLaser will reply to this thread.  Otherwise, I'll pass along whatever further information I can glean.

 

Wayne

EDIT:  Thanks, Pete.    Looks like you're not only a great modeller, but also a faster typist than I am.

Matte board is nothing more than a fine cardboard, get a real wood kit!!!! As far as the Campbell kit, in most you don't get much cardboar except for sub roof except for one or two discontinued ones like the tilt-up.

[doctorwayne]

I have it from a reliable source that the lines are laser-etched, and should still be visible after the wall has been painted (unless, of course, you have a heavy hand when painting ).  The material is matte board (same stuff as used when framing pictures) and is used because it's more stable than micro plywood and also cheaper, so it helps to keep costs down.  The visible fibres, though, are a concern, so I'm hoping that the owner of GCLaser will reply to this thread.  Otherwise, I'll pass along whatever further information I can glean.

 

Wayne

EDIT:  Thanks, Pete.    Looks like you're not only a great modeller, but also a faster typist than I am.

[sumpter250]

The walls are Matte Board, and are laser etched, so a light coat of paint shouldn't hide the etchings.

That said, there is still the "fibers" problem, and that one I can't explain. Contact GCLaser ( email or phone: [phone] ), explain the situation, and, if necessary provide a mailing address so replacement part / parts, can be shipped out to you.

We used to cut micro plywood for our kits, and still do for our older kits, but the cost of that material went "out of sight", so we looked for a satisfactory replacement, to hold the kit costs down. The Matte Board is a very stable material, and cuts well, if not better than the plywood. The fibers may be from the "core" of the Matte Board, and if that is the case, it's the first time  we've heard of it. ( first time it has been mentioned, where we could be aware of it )

For the sake of general information, the colors of the buildings are done ( with the exception of white ) with artist quality marker pens. The material seems to handle air brushed lacquers well, but Acrylics might be too thick for the laser etched details, unless well thinned.

Pete

GCLaser

[gear-jammer]

I am a fan of kits that are laser-cut wood.  I have found Laser kit by American model builders to be the most straightforward.

We recently purchased a Campbell kit that was $75.  When it arrived, it was cardstock.  What a nightmare.  For that price, it should have been wood.  We were expecting a box of sticks which would have been hard enough.

Thanks for the tip on GC Laser.

Sue

[rrebell]

Build a lot of wood kits and believe me , they are not all equal and I have seen some that are just plain bad all the way up to masterpieces. Unfortunately a bad first experience can swear someone off of wood kits. I personally hate the peal and stick windows on some. If you want a good cheap experience go to railroadkits.com, they have a good one for under $10.  As far as your siding it sounds like one of the new high-bread materials it is hard to keep up with the new laser materials but it sounds like a ply with the top layer being a type of paper .

[wp8thsub]

arvanlaa

For whatever reason I think you guys think the kit is a cardstock kit. It is a wood kit. Everything is laser cut wood minus the cardstock that is glue on top of wood walls and the roof panels. It is just for a finish that is all. Structurally it is all wood. And the cardstock is not stamped. It only has lines printed on them. 

GC Laser's site mentions that kits looking similar to yours have "laser-etched wall appliques."  I didn't catch that earlier (a lot of older kits used stamped cardstock).  I would assume the lines are intended to remain visible after painting, but if there is no texture at all that sounds like an odd kit design.

So if I repaint it, do you guys have any advice on how to make it look like siding again if those printed lines will be disappearing once I paint it. They would have to be super fine lines. Or should I not even bother with this cardstock and paint the wood walls themselves?

 

Use spray paint or an airbrush to get an even, thin coat of paint, assuming there's an actual texture to the appliques and not just printing.  The plain wood sub-walls probably won't look like much, painted or not.  You could make new appliques from something that would retain visible siding detail, like Evergreen styrene.

Report back on what the manufacturer tells you.  If the siding detail has insufficient relief to stand up to painting, I don't think I'd purchase one of their kits with the cardstock appliques.

[CTValleyRR]

Steven Otte

Regardless of how the wood and/or cardstock parts are intended to be used, I'd say your finished model will look better appropriately painted, which would make the darker-colored fibers a non-issue.

I agree with Steve (do I get brownie points for siding with the Editorial Staff? -- maybe a free issue?? ).

I've used several wood kits (though not a GC Laser Kit).  I'd never leave one unpainted.  Even if I wanted raw wood, I'd dapple something on to represent weathering.  Just paint over it.

[arvanlaa]

OK I shall drop them an email and see if the fibers are supposed to be there. I work in the printing industry and most low quality cardstock does have those fibers. We'll see if they have any instructions for me.

For whatever reason I think you guys think the kit is a cardstock kit. It is a wood kit. Everything is laser cut wood minus the cardstock that is glue on top of wood walls and the roof panels. It is just for a finish that is all. Structurally it is all wood. And the cardstock is not stamped. It only has lines printed on them. 

So if I repaint it, do you guys have any advice on how to make it look like siding again if those printed lines will be disappearing once I paint it. They would have to be super fine lines. Or should I not even bother with this cardstock and paint the wood walls themselves? 

Thank you everyone for your responses! If I forgot to respond to you or I sounded harsh at all, I am trying to write this in 5 minutes at a Mcdonals lol. I apologize in advance. I really need internet at home.... :S

[cuyama]

wp8thsub

As with virtually any craftsman kit, the parts are intended to be painted.

Rob's right, as further evidenced by the photo on the web page the Original Poster provided. The GC Laser kits I've seen have reasonably clear instructions, including guidance for finishing the kit (paint, stain, etc.) Surprised if that's not the case here.

[wp8thsub]

A lot of GC Laser's kits have cardstock walls.  The fact the walls are white is indicative of the color of the basic material only.  The cardstock is probably stamped to provide the 3-D siding effect, a side effect of which would be the "fibers."  As with virtually any craftsman kit, the parts are intended to be painted.

[Railphotog]

The title of this post is "Wood kit Question".  The website for the kit does not say it is made of wood.  Just the material is laser cut.

 

 

[ChadLRyan]

I have built many GC Laser kits, but I know they came out with a less expensive set of them that were some form of card stock. I don't have any of those, as card stock usually warps due to my unstable environment (over 100yr old house).  I would try a wash of the color (like a stain) you would want, but it may blend out some of the printing. Howerver, if it is laser scribed, even airbrushing full strenght paint won't fill the cut marks. I would test both methods on a fret or a knockout if there are any.

[Steven Otte]

Regardless of how the wood and/or cardstock parts are intended to be used, I'd say your finished model will look better appropriately painted, which would make the darker-colored fibers a non-issue.

[simon1966]

Not familiar with GC laser other than having heard of them and seen their adverts.  I would certainly drop them an email, explain you are a first time buyer of such a kit and ask about painting recommendations, mentioning of course your concern.  

The response you get will tell you a lot about the company.

[dstarr]

OK, the kit comes with siding that have printed lines to represent clapboards or shingle or board and batten.  If printed, the material is likely cardstock, 'cause running sheet basswood thru a printing press won't work. 

   And the pre printed cardstock walls look kinda ugly due to something fiberous in the cardstock?

   You might try asking the kit maker for a replacement piece of wall cardstock.  Tell him it was damaged.

[wjstix]

Since you're familiar with their website, why not see if you can drop CGLaser an e-mail and ask them about it?? The picture makes it hard to tell about wood siding or what it is. Do the "gray fibers" look like they might be meant to represent places where the white paint has faded and the gray wood under the paint is showing thru??

[arvanlaa]

Ok I should have posted this before... Here is a link to the product

http://74.220.29.68/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GI&Product_Code=1901&Category_Code=HSS

I dont know if the white is cardstock or just very thin wood. I am going to lean on the side of cardstock because I do not think wood has the grey fibres I am seeing. The cardstock is definitly not for the roof. I know exactly which part of the kit is for the roof. Unfortunatly the instructions do not say anything about painting this siding. I am thinking they have created it to be left as is on the model. Its just the grey fibres that worry me. I was hoping someone else might have run into a similar situation like this.

The sheet of cardstock is meant to be glued onto the more sturdy plain wood walls. It gives it the look of white siding without me personally having to paint lines to replicate siding.

[simon1966]

It would be helpful to know the brand of kit you are using? 

It sounds like the card-stock siding is meant to be a laminate for the wood?  Most all the laser kits that I have built use milled wood sheet with the clapboards milled into the wood rather than as a card laminate.   Anyway the kit instructions should provide details on painting, but if they do not, I would assemble the walls, apply the card stock laminate and any interior bracing before attempting to paint the exterior.

One thing to remember about wooden, laser cut, structure kits is that most of them are made by small companies.   The quality of the materials and the instructions, varies tremendously between brands, so you can't really judge wooden kits as a whole based on one kit.

[G Paine]

What is the kit you got and who made it?

Could the cardstock be for the roof? I have seen cardstock sub-roofs on some craft kits, with lines printed so you can line up the shingles that cone with the kit.

[doctorwayne]

arvanlaa

No no... the white cardstock that has the printed siding on it goes on a more solid wood wall. The cardstock is white and printed and is meant to look like a white siding for the wall of the shack.

 

If the cardstock is meant to represent the visible wall, for what is the thin white wood used?   It seems unusual to me that a laser-cut kit would supply one-dimensional material for such a purpose. 

It might help if we knew to which kit you're referring:  a quick google search turned up only this one in that price range, and it appears to be only a partial structure.

 

Wayne

[Texas Zepher]

Hmmm, I've not made the jump into one of these new wooden kits yet.  I have been eying the NP standard station kit for a couple years now.   All of my wooden kits were the Campbell type from 30 years ago.   I will be watching what people think / recommend with interest.

[arvanlaa]

No no... the white cardstock that has the printed siding on it goes on a more solid wood wall. The cardstock is white and printed and is meant to look like a white siding for the wall of the shack.