Wow, how things have changed in 15 years! Now one can buy a practically perfect Rapido FL9 instead of 'bashing one together.
Jacob,Stop! Don't do that. My advice from 2004 is still valid today.
Buy an Atlas Yellow Box FP7, specifically one of the later ones that have the blackened wheels. It has a nice, heavy chassis and the truck spacing is exactly correct for an FL9 (because that's what EMD did, too). There is no need to cut and splice the chassis to add space between the trucks.Then, buy an Atlas Yellow Box SD35, also from the later years that has the blackened wheels. It's important to match both the FP7 and the SD35 to the same era because the truck gearing changed. Originally, they both had shiny, flat disc wheels and were kind of noisy. Later, they switched to the blackened, dished wheels and the drive was excellent (like a Kato).
Take the FP7 chassis, remove the rear truck and cut several feet off the rear of the fuel tank so that it's flush with the underframe. Then take the rear SD35 truck off that model and stick it on the FP7 chassis. It will literally snap on with no modifications to the mounting clips, drive shafts...nothing. It's an exact match.
And that's it! You're done. No cutting the chassis apart, splicing in things...nothing. The only thing you have to do is figure out how to mount the couplers. On the Atlas FP7, the mounts were on the shells.
Old Yellow Box Atlas FP7's and SD35's are cheap at a train show. There's no reason not to use the excellent Atlas drive.FWIW, here's the NH FL9 diagram:http://www.alphabetroute.com/nynhh/dieseldgms/2000-2029.pdf
BigDaddyYour post is additive We look forward to seeing some pics of your progress.
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Yes we do!
I would like to see how this comes to be.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
There are still two posters in this old thread that are still active. Anonymous is a catch all name for people who have left the forum.
Your post is additive We look forward to seeing some pics of your progress.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I'm currently working on a pair of FP-7's. Shells are Intermountain, but I don't have a chassis to go with them. So, I'm making them. The FP-7 differs from the F-7 in that the 4' added length is added just in front of the fuel tank. FL-9 then adds another 4' in length to the rear of the FP-7. For what I'm doing, I'm using Stewart/Kato F7 chassis, cutting just in front of the fuel tank area, and adding 14mm of chassis I cut out of a FT. From pictures, it looks like the FL-9 added 8' behind the rear of the fuel tank, but moved the exhaust and fans to the rear in what looks like a similar distance from the rear of the unit as the FP-9.
QUOTE: The AMD-103 scheme is very easy by comparison, especially since someone makes the decals for this engine which includes the black and orange striping.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
QUOTE: I plan to kitbash a New Haven FL-9 from F unit parts. Has anyone done this before?
QUOTE: Is the front truck a normal blomberg type truck or is it something else?
QUOTE: If I was to build one, I'd start with a pair of Highliner Shells, 1 A and one B, a Life-Like E unit truck and two Athearn F7 frames, one with a drive.
QUOTE: For the frame, combine Athearn F and SD9 frames in a similar manner as the SDL39 project in the Sept issue of MR.
QUOTE: Just wanted to let you know in case you weren't aware that Absolute Scale Models already makes the New Haven FL9. It is expensive, though.
QUOTE: Here's the citation for the MR article: New Haven's FL9 third-rail diesels Model Railroader, August 1961 page 34
QUOTE: Well, i managed to paint an Athearn AMD-103 in the McGinnis Scheme, so the FL-9 shouldn´t be a problem...
QUOTE: The scariest part of the whole exercise will be trying to paint it in the McGinnis scheme once it is all assmbled...
Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
QUOTE: Originally posted by mykroft The front truck is a Blomberg B. The rear truck is an A-1-A, not a Flexicoil. And an FL9 is 8' longer than a F9 or 4' longer than an FP7. If I was to build one, I'd start with a pair of Highliner Shells, 1 A and one B, a Life-Like E unit truck and two Athearn F7 frames, one with a drive.
QUOTE: Originally posted by Supermicha I plan to kitbash a New Haven FL-9 from F unit parts. Has anyone done this before? How much longer is the FL-9 compared to the F7? Which type is the rear 3 axle truck? Thanks four your help.