I repowered my RDC-1 a couple years ago with the Ernst conversion kit, found it to be MUCH easier than a similar conversion for the Athearn Hustler. Also, found that with the conversion, can put a couple trailers, like an Athearn (RDC-3?) or a couple heavyweight or streamline cars behind it. With the Hi F drive, I used to get a lot of slipping and stalling when trying to pull trailers. Also, I don't have to be changing bands every couple years. And it can still handle 18" curves. NBD, that, since I intend to go to 24" min on my next pike.
And now for a different view:
I have six Athearn RDC's all repowered with Ernst drives, can motors and NWSL brass replacement wheels.
Did all that cost more than six Proto RDC's - sure.
Why did I do it? First I had the Athearn RDC's and did not pay much for them.
Second, I actually like their selectively compressed shorter lenght - even with the 36" and larger radius of the curves on my layout, I prefer shorter passenger cars.
Interior details not withstanding, the Athearn RDC is just as well detailed as the Proto model. And the Athearn model represents a different version of the RDC. The proto model represents the earliest, and admittedly most produced version. The Athearn model represents the last version.
The Proto model suffers from a number of different "colors" for the silver - and most of mine are for my freelanced road anyway - much better to start with undecorated models.
Here are a few photos:
I have added steps to RDC3's and made number boards to hide the tabs where the body clips on.
They run fine and work great for my freelanced ATLANTIC CENTRAL.
Cost aside, I'm still more interested in building models than buying models.
Sheldon
Darth Santa Fe I recently use the Ernst kit in my Athearn RDC, and it runs well. It's certainly the cheapest way to go, and I personally wouldn't spend $80 on repowering Athearn's RDCs. If you get the Ernst kit, be sure to follow the instructions exactly. I tried to skip through a little bit, and almost regretted it (just barely saved that gear!). The gears are Delrin with a brass worm, so they should last a long time.
I recently use the Ernst kit in my Athearn RDC, and it runs well. It's certainly the cheapest way to go, and I personally wouldn't spend $80 on repowering Athearn's RDCs.
If you get the Ernst kit, be sure to follow the instructions exactly. I tried to skip through a little bit, and almost regretted it (just barely saved that gear!). The gears are Delrin with a brass worm, so they should last a long time.
I have to say in seriousness that I agree. The cost of the kit by itself would be good chunk along the way to a newer, more-detailed model. And even if the kit was free, the "cost" in time and trouble would probably still be more than just getting newer ones. The only reason I even keep mine is because they have sentimental value. At some point they will find a home on my display shelf. IMO, they're not even really worth turning into dummies because the detailing on the newer ones is so much better.
John
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The Walthers part number fore the Ernst RDC regear kit is 259-3http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/259-3
I have seen a few of these come through as donated items to my RR group. They test ran OK, and it was an improvment over the rubber bands. DOn't know how they run over time.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Simon, never installed it. OP If part number is need let me know.
Could not believe we found the kit as soon as we went into the train show!
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I have one converted to use a self-powered truck from NWSL, their "SPUD". I see they now advertise a modern one they call the "Stanton" drive. Not cheap though ($85.00!).
Years ago I bought one of the Ernst regear kits, but it looked too flakey and required a whole lot of frame cutting and such that I never did bother to install it. I think gears were set into or otherwise fitted to one truck, and a gear was placed on one end of the existing long drive shafts.
I did this before the excellent Proto 1000 RDCs came out, and to me are a whole lot better than bothering to try and repower an Athearn model. They are the correct length, and are much better detailed. At one time Trainworld was offering RDC-1s for $19.95, I got several. eBay might be the current choice.
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
Ernst (sp?) made a conversion kit for this model. Not sure if it is still made? One member Cudaken found one at a train show some months back and I think successfully installed the conversion. Not sure how well it worked?
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
I tried that, but it was mousely under powered, Thanks gct49st
I have some old Athearn Alco PA's that I converted over to Hamster-drive... all-in-all it works pretty well until the Hamsters fall asleep.
(P.S. I really do have some old rubber-band drive Athearn PA's though :-)
I recently purchased an old Athearn RDC-1 with rubber band drive and would like to eliminate the bands to a gearing system. Has anyone done this and how did you do it ??? gct49st