"Sometimes you have to PIERCE it with a pin".
When decals are made, they spray a sheet of paper with water-soluble glue. They then spray a sheet of clear lacquer on the paper, then print the color designs on top. Some manufacturers, like Microscale, only print the lacquer in the spot where the design will be. Champ coated the entire sheet of paper with the lacquer. When cutting the decal out you have to cut the Champ decals close to the image, to reduce the amount of film that has to be hidden on the car. I paint the car with a gloss finish. The gloss coat gives the car a smooth finish that the decal can conform to. Flat paint gives a rough finish, that the decal can not conform to. Applying decals over flat paint leaves air pockets underneath the decal, causing 'silvering' when it dries. Sometimes you have to re-wet the decal with solution over and over to get it to snuggle down. Sometimes you can use a wet Qtip to press it down. Sometimes you have to slice the decal (between boards on a wooden car, for example). Sometimes you have to *** it with a pin. Keep doing it and re-wetting it until it snuggles down.
Back in the 1950s they made decals that had glue that was used to adhere the decal to the model. That isnt so anymore. Today we use the solvents, and clear cover coats to hold the decal. When you wet the decal you want all the water-soluble glue to dissolve. That means letting it float free of the paper backing. Let it float for a minute or two then re-use the paper to lift the decal onto the model. Apply the decals with setting solution if it is called for by the manufacturer. I use Solvaset; follow the directions of your manufacturer here. You need to put a puddle of water on the car side to float the decal on. Position the decal, then soak up the excess water with a piece of paper towel. When the decals are snuggled down and there are no bubbles or silvering left, and the car has dried for a day or two, I use a Qtip wet with water to wipe all the decal glue and setting solution off the car. Let it dry for another day. I then overspray the car with gloss finish. The gloss seals the edges of the decal to make them disappear. Then apply a flat finish, and weather to taste.
As previous posted have said, use the Microscale Micro Set under the decal, then use Champ, Walthers Solvaset or Microscale's Micro Sol to set the decal. In any case it will probably take multiple applications of setting solutions to get the decal to properly conform around rivets etc., and adhere to the model.
I agree with first a finishing coat with gloss to even things out and then finishing with Dullcote or something similar.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
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Hi Guys.
That's great! Thank you for all that information you've given me here. I should be on my way now.
Dusty
One suggestion, if you haven't already done so, is to read Champ's instruction sheet included with each set.
In addition to applying a gloss or semi-gloss finish prior to applying decals, make sure to let it dry completely. Place the cut-out decal in water and leave it there until the the backing paper releases and sinks to the bottom. You can leave the decal in the water much longer than this , if you wish. The purpose is to remove all of the glue from the back of the decal - it's not required to adhere the decal to your model. I use Micro-Set initially, applying it either to the back of the decal or on the surface onto which it's to be placed. To set it further, I use Walthers' Solvaset.
I finish up with an airbrushed application of Dullcote, followed by weathering.
Champ decals on an Accurail boxcar:
Wayne
Hi, Dusty!
DTI406 had some good suggestions, but since Champ is going out of the decal business, the Champ Decal Set might be hard to find. I would suggest Micro Scale Micro Set on the surface before you apply the decal, and Walthers Solvaset (3-4 applications, waiting until the previous application is COMPLETELY dry before the next application) after.
Before you start the procedure, however, give the model a glossy finish - Future floor finish works well, or Floquil Crystal-Cote if you want solvent finish. I prefer Future. After the decal is completely dry, give it another clear gloss coat, then a flat finish of your choice.
That last clear coat gives the model a uniform base finish for the flat finish.
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Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
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"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
http://fhn.site90.net
No 1,has to be on a very gloss surface for decaling with Champ Decals
No.2,need to use Champ Decal Set a number of times after the decal has first set up, I also use a dilute mixture of Champ under the decal when first applying the decal. This is important as the Champ Decal is much thicker than Microscale or other manufacturers of decals, but thinner than Walthers.
No.3, dull coat with Testors, I use the bottle and use an airbrush.
Here is a car I did with Champ Decals:
Keep trying and it should turn out all right!
Rick
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I have these Champ decals I want to apply to some box cars. In the past I have used these decals and affter they have been applied they dry out so that it can bee seen that they are decals - not like the Microscale decals that seem better in this regard.
What am I doing wrong with the Champ decals so that they don't look as good as the Mircoscale ones.
Thnak you.
Dusty.