Digitrax decoder fitting into an Athearn BB

[Anonymous]

I have a Digitrax DH123 decoder that I am having trouble fitting into an Athearn GP38-2. When I put the shell back on the loco with the decoder within, when the motor runs it sounds like it is rubbing up against something and there is a noticeable speed drop from without the decoder. I have changed to lamps that did not come with the kit and have cut off the light bracket, hopefully allowing for more room for the wires. Can anyone give me any hints/tips?
While I'm typing, what's the best way to attach the lamps to the locomotive shell so they stay put? Would epoxy work?
Thanks,
Reed G-J

[Anonymous]

I make a small bracket that straddles the worm gear on top of the truck on each end of the loco. I use small channel shaped styreen plastic glued to the frame on each side of the gearbox with a strip of the same channel across the top. I then use some double sided tape to mount the decoder to this and another piece of the double side tape to mount the light over it. I mount the decoder about center of the brace with the light hanging over the edge of the decoder. On the other end the light is mounted directly to the brace with the tape. You can build up the lights height with pieces of tape stacked to the correct height. This setup lets you take off the shell without moving the lights and wiring. You get the lights set where you want and secure the wires with tape or small zip ties. On some longer units like the SD-40T I make two braces for the decoder to rest on, but I haven't had trouble with the single brace on my shorter units. I hope this helps.

[nslakediv]

use some thin strips of electrical tape or small wire ties and group all the wires together and tie, should keep wires from going into motor. depending on size of bulbs, make sure the bulbs dont get too close to body or it will burn through, then you have a good place to mount a new firecracker antenna.

[Anonymous]

Tweet,
Do you have any pictures of this?
Reed

[Anonymous]

Sorry, MY digital camera is out of service. I may can expand on my first description.
Cut two pieces of plastruct styrene channel about 1" long and glue them to the frame about where the truck pivots. Cut a piece to go across these and glue it in position. tHis gives you something rigid to mount your decoder and lights to.. I use the tape that is sticky on both sides to mount my decoder. I use this tape to build up a mount for my lights. You may want to make a separate brace for your lights, but I haven't had any trouble mounting my rear light on top of the decoder. Just use a couple of layers of the tape where the light will not burn through the shrink wrap on the decoder.

[Anonymous]

Bruce also has a great piece on how to install a Soundtraxx decoder and speaker in the new Kato AC4400's.

[Anonymous]

I installed my DH123 decoder in my Athearn GP38-2 under the blister on the long hood. I did have to whittle a bit of plastic out to get it to fit. However, It seemed to me that this is what Athearn made the blister removeable for.

[darth9x9]

Make sure your wires aren't too long as they will take up room and possibly get in the way of the motor and the drive-train.

I have been successful buy using Walther's Goo to glue the back of the headlight lamps in a brass tube and use the Goo to hold the tube to shell. This way when the bulb burns out in the future, the Goo will still be pliable enough to cut it with an Xacto knife. But be sure to let the Goo cure for a couple of days before rejoining the shell to the chassis to let it cure completely.

[AntonioFP45]

Darth9x9,

Sounds like a good plan.

Question: Have you considered using L.E.Ds? From what I understand, if they're the correct rating and installed properly they last YEARS compared to bulbs.

Cheers!

[darth9x9]

Hey AntonioFP45,

I sure have and I do! I prefer to use a volt drop circuit so they will always have the same voltage across the LEDs no matter whose system I may run my engines on. Not everyone has their systems set to the same voltage. I also use the amber filter on the 'white' LEDs to make them 'whiter'.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

Bnnnnboy,

Click on the link below. Hope it will be helpful. You can also e-mail Bruce as he's very good about offering DCC installation tips.

www.litchfieldstation.com/s/i/ho/hod/hod.html

God Bless and Cheers!

That is a very good link. I like the first SD40-2 pic. Think that I am just going to redo the wire harness because it has been modified and soldered and resoldered to the point where I just want to start anew. I will tell you all how it goes. Unfortunately I will not be able to do this for a long time because I am buying a computer and that will cut my money supply for a while.
Thanks,
Reed

[AntonioFP45]

Glad it was helpful![:)][:D]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

Bnnnnboy,

Click on the link below. Hope it will be helpful. You can also e-mail Bruce as he's very good about offering DCC installation tips.

www.litchfieldstation.com/s/i/ho/hod/hod.html

God Bless and Cheers!

Sorry to bring this thread back, but I have worked on the harness and have a question. Did the SD40-2 in that picture have the place that holds extra weight cut out so the decoder would fit? It seems like it would be necessary.

Anyway, here's the picture of the new wiring job: http://community.webshots.com/photo/109373438/172820840QAPvYX

Thanks,
Reed

[darth9x9]

Hey Reed,

If you are talilng about the weight that is usually in the brake blister , then yes, it will probably have to come out. There is only so much room in a shell. The good thing is that decoders are getting smaller and smaller as time goes on.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the help with the braking thing. It seemed to solve my problem of the wires or something else of that sort hitting the drive train. Jeez. It seems that every problem I fix sprouts a new problem. Now there seems to be a quiet thumping, even when the shell is off. The front part of the drive shaft seems to shake a tiny bit. I think it is hitting something, but I can't see it. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Reed