Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Gluing weights to freight car floors-safely

1121 views
12 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Gluing weights to freight car floors-safely
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:07 PM
What is a good adhesive that will keep the steel weights included with car kits attached to the floor/underbody, with a lot af shear and shock strength, and without razing or distorting the plastic car underbody/floor?

Thanks,
Christopher
  • Member since
    May 2015
  • 5,134 posts
Posted by ericsp on Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:30 PM
I use Walthers's Goo.

"No soup for you!" - Yev Kassem (from Seinfeld)

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: US
  • 665 posts
Posted by darth9x9 on Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:36 PM
Two part expoy will fit the bill. Just wait a full 24 hours before enclosing them (ie putting box car top on).

You could use Walthers Goo but I would wait a full two weeks (yes, 14 days) to let it cure.

Others have found double sided tape to work well too.

Bill Carl (modeling Chessie and predecessors from 1973-1983)
Member of Four County Society of Model Engineers
NCE DCC Master
Visit the FCSME at www.FCSME.org
Modular railroading at its best!
If it has an X in it, it sucks! And yes, I just had my modeler's license renewed last week!

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:37 PM
Walther's Goo is good for steel nut type weights, but with the sheet-type weights it can cause styrene floors to warp over time. Epoxy or RPV is a better choice for sheet weights.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Saturday, July 31, 2004 8:57 PM
Goop, silicon caulking, or any type of silicon adhesive works well, but drying time is required before you turn the model upside down. I read somewhere on one of these forums that Walthers Goo will cause plastic floors to warp over time, so it is not really a good choice.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 31, 2004 9:02 PM
Could you safely use PVC pipe glue or contact cement?
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: US
  • 665 posts
Posted by darth9x9 on Saturday, July 31, 2004 9:17 PM
Definitely not PVC cement!!!

Bill Carl (modeling Chessie and predecessors from 1973-1983)
Member of Four County Society of Model Engineers
NCE DCC Master
Visit the FCSME at www.FCSME.org
Modular railroading at its best!
If it has an X in it, it sucks! And yes, I just had my modeler's license renewed last week!

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southern Minnesota now
  • 956 posts
Posted by Hawks05 on Saturday, July 31, 2004 9:24 PM
i used poster puddy for 2 hoppers and a boxcar. otherwise i use Goo for everything else. usually i don't glue the weights down though.
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Bottom Left Corner, USA
  • 3,420 posts
Posted by dharmon on Saturday, July 31, 2004 10:08 PM
Double sided tape.
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Saturday, July 31, 2004 11:27 PM
Adhesive caulk, preferably paintable latex, not silicone.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 1, 2004 12:35 PM
The directions for my P2K stock cars say to glue the weight to the floor using Rubber Cement, hopefully this doesn't dissolve or warp styrene?
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: North Central Illinois
  • 1,458 posts
Posted by CBQ_Guy on Tuesday, August 3, 2004 2:24 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cjm89

The directions for my P2K stock cars say to glue the weight to the floor using Rubber Cement, hopefully this doesn't dissolve or warp styrene?


Dhris,

My understanding is that rubber cement is sort of a weak form of contact cement so I guess it would work, though I've never tried it. You could /should be able to use contact cement if you use the water type(non-solvent type), I forget what it's called now since I haven't bought any tubes in years, but I picked it up at a K-Mart store, IIRC.

For small weights I've been using Goo, but inside of covered hoppers, for example, I've been using silicone caulk with no problems.

Take care,
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Connecticut
  • 724 posts
Posted by mondotrains on Tuesday, August 3, 2004 7:42 PM
Hi,
I like to use inexpensive solutions that work fine in this hobby. I've been using "Tacky Glue", available at craft stores like Michael's and Joanne Fabrics, for only 99 cents for a large plastic bottle. It is great for glueing dissimilar materials like the metal weights and plastic floors. And, it does not attack plastic. It takes some time to dry, like overnight, but again is very inexpensive.

As far as adding more weight to rolling stock, I glue pennies to the inside of the car floor, near the end where they won't show. The nice thing about pennies is that they are cheaper than the lead weights available at hobby shops and they are made of harmless copper rather than lead. They are also nice because just a few can get cars up to the proper weight.

Hope this helps.
Mondo

Mondo

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!