Question for Terry Thompson (or any one else who could answer it)

[Anonymous]

Nah, the ones trying to escape are the GE's, and it's through the radiator :-)

[johncolley]

ALCO, isn't that the ones whose insides are trying to escape through the stack? Actually I loved the way the cycling governor racks made the idle RPM's lope of the PA-PB-1's way back in '60 when I hostled them through the wash rack and over to the fuel dock.

[AlcoRS11Nut]

Thanks!

[dharmon]

One technique I have tried with a degree of success to create a sun oxidized faded look is to give a model an overspray of clear flat. Then mix some 91 or 97 percent alcohol with a few drops of grimy black. The alcohol creates a whitish oxidation type residue with the clear flat, and the coat of clear flat protects the original finish from the alcohol.

[DonaldAgne]

You'll have to do one color at a time. For example, cover the black parts with masking tape and spray the red parts first, then when the red paint dries, cover the red with masking tape and spray the black. There are many weathering techniques; and, I'm sure if you do a search on this forum, you'll come up with answers to all of your questions.

[AlcoRS11Nut]

I was reading the article in the Nov. 2003 issue of MR on Weathering diesel locomotives, to gain some knowledge in the subject, (I am just starting to learn to weather). But I have some questions on some stuff. When you talked about fadeing the paint you said, "mix a paint that's slightly lighter (just slightly though) thatn the body color...", I have to do this because to weather the roof (which is black), but wouldn't the "faded" black paint that I would be spraying on cover the other color (red), so I would get an entirely black locomotive, or not? Because if I do what you said with the red I would mess-up the black wouldn't I?

Thanks for answering the question, I know it must seem stupid to you.