QUOTE: Originally posted by ebriley People, people, people!!! Try to keep up!!!! ;-) Destination Train Center in Lenexa, Kansas CLOSED a couple of years ago!!! Steve, the owner, moved to Chicago and has since opened Destination Hobby Center in a Chicago suburb. I have seen or heard nothing about his new venture so can only assume it is still in operation. However, if you come to Lenexa looking for Destination Trains you will be several years TOO LATE!!!
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Originally posted by locomotive3 Randel, there's a gizmo called !THE TOOL, $11.00 that is used to clean up the plastic truck frames, removing flash and open up the journal especially Walthers cars If you can't get it locally, go to www.destinationtrains.com They are in Lenexa Ka People, people, people!!! Try to keep up!!!! ;-) Destination Train Center in Lenexa, Kansas CLOSED a couple of years ago!!! Steve, the owner, moved to Chicago and has since opened Destination Hobby Center in a Chicago suburb. I have seen or heard nothing about his new venture so can only assume it is still in operation. However, if you come to Lenexa looking for Destination Trains you will be several years TOO LATE!!! Reply Edit Don Gibson Member sinceJune 2004 From: Pacific Northwest 3,864 posts Posted by Don Gibson on Wednesday, May 4, 2005 1:40 AM LUBE ONLY the journal where the axles rotate. Grease with Teflon is recomended - 'A little da 'l do ya''. Don Gibson .............. ________ _______ I I__()____||__| ||||| I / I ((|__|----------| | |||||||||| I ______ I // o--O O O O-----o o OO-------OO ########################### Reply selector Member sinceFebruary 2005 From: Vancouver Island, BC 23,326 posts Posted by selector on Wednesday, May 4, 2005 1:25 AM Ideally, no, but the fact is that all rotating surfaces do better with some form of lubrication. For one, they last longer, and two, they offer less resistance to the locomotive's tractive effort. So, if your journals are well and smoothly honed, and your wheel sets are in guage for the track, you will probably do well to leave them unlubed. If you'd rather improve them, then lube them, but do it very sparingly (with appropriate lubes for the compounds involved), and be prepared to clean them every so often when they get stiff from gunk. Reply donny2001 Member sinceOctober 2002 From: US 18 posts Posted by donny2001 on Tuesday, May 3, 2005 11:31 PM Agreed. Plastic wheels now to me are a joke. I purchased 2 packs of Intermountain 33" for a couple of my hopper and beer cars, and man I quickly ran back to the hobby store for 2 more packs! Walthers has a sale for 33" Inter Mountain metal wheels (100 pack) for about $56. I might buy to packs of the lifelike 33" metal wheel sets for $5.98 each. I can convert 30 cars then for a couple of dollars more. One of my Athearn Blue Box Milwaukee road switcher used to be able to pull about 10-12 cars. Now if I wanted (Would look odd on my small layout) I can pull my entire fleet of 20 with just the one engine. Do the metal wheels require any lubrication at all though? Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 2, 2005 2:59 PM Plastic is dead, long live metal wheels. They were once considered a luxury but now are really beneficial. Reply Edit Jetrock Member sinceAugust 2003 From: Midtown Sacramento 3,340 posts Posted by Jetrock on Monday, May 2, 2005 2:46 PM Nail polish remover may clean your track but will wreak untold havoc on any nearby scenery! Metal wheels will minimize your need for track cleaning--in fact, one of the best ways to keep your rails clean are to operate regularly--especially if you have metal wheels! I recommend INTERMOUNTAIN wheels--they are a bit more pricey but a really excellent product. Reply AntonioFP45 Member sinceDecember 2003 From: Good ol' USA 9,639 posts Posted by AntonioFP45 on Monday, May 2, 2005 1:39 PM The combination of using nickel silver wheels on nickel silver track will pretty much eliminate the need for cleaning after every session. Basic rule of thumb is to inspect your track before a session. Plastic wheels will deposit a black gunk. Nail polish remover, known as Acetone can be used but this chemical is not healthy to breathe. 91% Alcohol will also work. Even with metal, rolling stock wheels still need their cleaning. For locomotives, it's hard to beat the Kadee electrick wheel cleaner! I picked one up for $12 at a train show. For freight and passenger cars an easy trick is to soak a cloth with alcohol, place it on the rails, and run your cars back and forth over it. I prefer to put the cloth on each wheel, turn the opposite wheel by hand as I hold the cloth against the wheel being cleaned. With plastic wheels, this is time consuming! Metal wheels?----each wheel is cleaned in just a few seconds. Cheers! "I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!" Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 12, 2002 12:24 PM Hi maybe someone can help me. I am still workking on my layout and don't ge too run trains as much but I clean my track and wheels although I don't clean rolling stock. My question I can not keep them clean or track Do I clean this track or wheels everytime I run trains since I don't run that often. Also someone told me fingernail polish remover is good for cleaning track . Appreciate any info. Thanks Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 11, 2002 11:39 AM Randel; 1st hobbies seems to have one of the best online stores I've come across. I've ordered from them a number of times and have had no problems. Their website is http://www.1stplacehobbies.com Walt Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 9, 2002 7:48 PM Randel, KD truck sheet will be mailed to you Thur,Jan 10-02 Happyrailroading Chuck Walsh-Grand Rapids Mi locomotive3@prodigy.net Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 9, 2002 6:44 PM Charles;Here is my mailing address:randel bittick 4002-36th apt.c Lubbock,Texas 79413 Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 9, 2002 4:43 AM Randel, as one said in a prior response,P2k metal wheel sets, are made by Lifelike,Proto 2000 which come in 33" & 36" flat back & Ribbed back. The P2K appears to be the favorite among modelers. Bear in mind that they may not perform in every type of truck out there,some exceptions. A local hobby shop should carry a 12 axle pack for approx $7.00 per pack. You can E-mail me your mailing address and I will mail you the KD truck sheet that cover the time periods of rib/smooth back. locomotive3@prodigy.net Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 8, 2002 9:31 PM Hi,Charles;I do Thank You AND Joe for the information.Now ,My question is where can i get the nickel silver wheels.Any web-sites.Also wuold you send me a copy of the KD Truck sheet please.Thank YOU and Joe for the information.Your Railroad Friend Randel B. Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 6, 2002 11:03 AM Randel, there's a gizmo called !THE TOOL, $11.00 that is used to clean up the plastic truck frames, removing flash and open up the journal especially Walthers cars If you can't get it locally, go to www.destinationtrains.com They are in Lenexa Ka It's a cutter on one end,insert, squeeze sideframes and spin the tool. Also I have an extra KD Truck sheet that specifies the times smooth and rib wheel sets were in use. Chuck Walsh locomotive3@prodigy.net Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 5, 2002 11:32 AM Actually, the wheels you want are "nickel silver", which is an alloy of nickel, copper and zinc that has a "silver" appearance and is less subject to oxidation. You also want this for your track! The better wheels are P2K, and the 33" non-ribbed fits most cars/eras (assuming you model after 1950 - earlier than this the wheels might have been ribbed). Heaver modern cars (passenger and freight over 100 tons) have 36" wheels. Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 5, 2002 9:49 AM Thank you charles.You need to say moore Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 5, 2002 5:33 AM Randel, Wheelsets,Couplers,Cleantrack/Wheels and Dcc are the popular topics discussed today and by upgradingall greatly improve operations. You would be surprised when you see the difference in greater free rolling ability of metal sets and cleaner track.Plastic sets have additives and over time tiny amounts of these pigments transfer onto the track which contribute to the overall dirty track condition. You should visit the following sites for clean tracks ahead. http://www.ttx-dcc.com/technews/cmx_chemist_review.htm http://www.ttx-dcc.com/technews/clean_machine.htm Wheelsets come in four sizes, 28",33",36" & 38" Auto racks generally use the 28" The age and tonage capacity of the prototype generally determine the wheel size. 40' & 50 " box cars ,cabooses, flatcars, 34' & 40' hoppers generally use 33" 40' cement hoppers will use a 36" 70 to 100 tons generally use 33" 100 tons, 36" and in some cases some of the newest(1980's) will use 38" in 125 ton sideframes. There are exceptions, so match your replacement set with your cars and most will take the 33" & 36". The most popular sets are the proto series and are not too expensive. Kadee puts out a set, but I have heard that the wheels are treated with some kind of black finishing process that transfer on to the rails, but eventually clean up. Intermountain is an all METAL set and this extra weight is an added plus in light weight cars but more expensive.. I have said too much, lots of luck. Chuck Walsh-Grand Rapids locomotive3@prodigy.net Reply Edit snowey Member sinceFebruary 2001 From: US 506 posts Posted by snowey on Saturday, January 5, 2002 1:28 AM in my experience (been involved in HO since about 1979 or 80 N since last year) I find that metal wheels are better, at least in HO. "I have a message...Lt. Col....Henry Blakes plane...was shot down...over the Sea Of Japan...it spun in...there were no survivors". Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Plastic vs steel wheels Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 4, 2002 9:19 PM I have a question about rolling stock wheels.Which is better plastic wheels or steels wheels.Any information is very helpful.Thank You very much.Your Railroad Friend Randel B. 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"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"