I strictly use acrylics. For general weathering or common earth tones, I use the ones available in the crafts section at Walmart. For railroad specific colors, I use Polly Scale.
I dilute them with 70% rubbing alcohol, which aids in drying.
I've found that the real keys to almost perfect paint jobs are:
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
You should thin your paint to the approximate consistency of 2% milk before airbrushing with it.
Another caution about using acrylics, especially with top coats and decals. While it may feel dry to the touch after a few seconds, it's not fully cured at that point. Acrylics need a couple of days to fully cure. The person who said he waited a couple of days before applying decals has the right idea, although I would let the paint dry for 72 hours, then let the clear coat dry for 72 hours before putting on decals.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Thanks, Chris. That will get me going in the right direction. A little experimenting should get me where I want to go.
tpatrick Say PRR, can you give us a sort of recipe? How much Liquitex do you use for a given volume of paint? And then how much Floetrol? My color cup can hold about 8 droppers of liquid, so assuming 4 droppers of paint, how much of the others do you recommend? I have Testor's acrylic MRR paint.
Say PRR, can you give us a sort of recipe? How much Liquitex do you use for a given volume of paint? And then how much Floetrol? My color cup can hold about 8 droppers of liquid, so assuming 4 droppers of paint, how much of the others do you recommend? I have Testor's acrylic MRR paint.
That's a good question as it does depend on the paint you start with. Since you are using an acylic paint that is designed for models, it is probably a thinner consistency than the craft paint I've been using. For instance I was mixing up a batch of DGLE (dark green locomotive enamel) from Hunter green and black craft paint. I got the color nearly spot on but my craft paint was much thicker. In a 1 0z bottle I filled it about halfway with paint and then added between two and three droppers of Floetrol. To thin to airbrush consistency I thinned with Liquitex airbrush medium until it was nearly the right consistency (heavy cream consistency) then finished off with about 4 droppers of water. The way I judge consistency is to take my mixing stick and drop some paint down the inside of the jar. If it flows down the side like milk and is not transparent then you have the right consistency (for a base coat). That's about as best mixing instructions as I can give because there is a fudge factor with different manufacturues of paint, etc.., that you'll have to play around with.
Chris
georgev loathar: snip....I would still go with solvent based paints for locos and rolling stock. Floquil and Scale Coat are the best since you may want to decal and over coat with a dull finisn.Craft paints don't play nice with things like Decal Solve or Set. ...snip Just an FYI here.... I discovered the hard way that acrylic PollyScale doesn't like Solvaset any more than the craft acrylics I use for weathering. I did not apply the clear coat thick enough (prior to decaling) and the Solvaset affected the PollyScale black on a tender. Next attempt I put on more clear coat and did not have the problem. George V.
loathar: snip....I would still go with solvent based paints for locos and rolling stock. Floquil and Scale Coat are the best since you may want to decal and over coat with a dull finisn.Craft paints don't play nice with things like Decal Solve or Set. ...snip
snip....I would still go with solvent based paints for locos and rolling stock. Floquil and Scale Coat are the best since you may want to decal and over coat with a dull finisn.Craft paints don't play nice with things like Decal Solve or Set. ...snip
Just an FYI here.... I discovered the hard way that acrylic PollyScale doesn't like Solvaset any more than the craft acrylics I use for weathering. I did not apply the clear coat thick enough (prior to decaling) and the Solvaset affected the PollyScale black on a tender. Next attempt I put on more clear coat and did not have the problem.
George V.
I agree some of those decal solutions can be pretty harsh to paint. I think the key is putting on enough clear to protect the paint and making sure it is good and dry. Maybe a few days to a week before decaling. Future seems to protect OK but when using the Microl-sol it can leave a bluish residue where the solution was. I try a blot up excess solution as I go but sometimes you need to let it sit on a decal in order to get it to conform to the detail. After the solution is evaporated and the decal dry, I take a damp paper towel and lightly rub over the bluish areas. A clear overcoat should make these areas go away. I'm also going to experiment with artist version of clear varnish to see if they form a harder protective barrier.
gandydancer19 I live out in the sticks. Where do you find or get Floetrol? What kind of store?
I live out in the sticks. Where do you find or get Floetrol? What kind of store?
Elmer,
You can get it at any paint store. I got mine up here in Oregon at Rodda paint, but you could probably get it at some place like Sherwin-Williams, Pittsburgh Paints, etc. If you don't have those near you try Ace or Tru-value hardware. Some of the big box stores like Home Depot or Lowes may stock it. Depends on the area.
loathar snip....I would still go with solvent based paints for locos and rolling stock. Floquil and Scale Coat are the best since you may want to decal and over coat with a dull finisn.Craft paints don't play nice with things like Decal Solve or Set. ...snip
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I've been airbrushing acrylics for a couple of years now, using an Aztek gravity feed double action brush. I thin the paint with dilute rubbing alcohol (35%) and it works fine for me. After every cup of paint, I spray some soapy water through the brush to keep it from getting gunked up.
One thing I forgot to mention is the airbrush I'm using. I spray my base coats with a Badger 200 internal mix, single action airbrush. I use a medium tip and needle (the one the brush comes with). I've been spraying around 25-30 psi. I just bought a Badger Renegade Velocity double action gravity feed for detail work. It has an extremely fine tip that I want to spray thinned oil paints through for weathering. I don't think I'll be spraying acrylics through it as I think i'll be asking for trouble.
Chris:
Thanks for the information. I've been experimenting with acrylic paints lately and your experiences and advice will help to shorten my learning curve.
Joe
loathar IMHO, craft paint is great for structures and scenery. Ceramacoat seems to be the best. Smaller particle size.I would still go with solvent based paints for locos and rolling stock. Floquil and Scale Coat are the best since you may want to decal and over coat with a dull finisn.Craft paints don't play nice with things like Decal Solve or Set. What's $5/bottle compared to having to strip and redo a project?
IMHO, craft paint is great for structures and scenery. Ceramacoat seems to be the best. Smaller particle size.I would still go with solvent based paints for locos and rolling stock. Floquil and Scale Coat are the best since you may want to decal and over coat with a dull finisn.Craft paints don't play nice with things like Decal Solve or Set.
What's $5/bottle compared to having to strip and redo a project?
I guess I will find that out soon enough. If I have to strip, so what? I figure you have to try things in order to learn. Also, I think the real reason your solvaset. etc. is eating through your acrylic paint is that most folks are thinning the paint with stuff that was never intended to thin paint thus compromising the durabilty of the paint. I may need to conduct an experiment to see if this is actually the case. If it works on scenery (structures) that is made of plastic or metal why not on a loco? Anyhow, I'm not tossing my solvent paints just yet as they are excellent.
I have been using Floetrol as an additive/ conditioner for all my interior trim painting for quite a few years since those VOC Regs really screwed up all the paint formulas. My word, w/o using a conditioner, it is like painting with Elmer's glue. Quick dry almost on the brush, and brush marks gallore. Floetrol retard the drying and allows the paint to level to a Formica like finish.
No problem at all. I think the Floetrol is a key component as well as the airbrush medium. I can spray the paint very wet and it just lays down and evens out like your experience with your other painting. I like your analogy of painting with elmer's glue cause that's kind of what it feels like sometimes when you have to brush paint acrlylics let alone try and airbrush. I think it would be very hard to accidently get orange peel with hte additives because the paint flattens out so nicely. Because the Floetrol is kinda thick (like you are aware I'm sure) you have to use the airbrush medium as most of the thinner and then maybe a smidge of water at the end just to tweak the consistency to make sure it is thin enough. Some paints need the water some don't. Depends on the pigments and thickness of the paint. The only caveat is that some paint can be somewhat transparent with just one coat so you may need two or three coats with some colors.
Very informative post. Have been painting primarilly w/ solvents for many years, as you say the fumes and ,worse- cleanup, is a pain. I've tried painting w/ acrylics on numerous occasions and just was never satisfied w/ the results. Varying pressures, using different thinners and ratios as well as changing the needle sizes. Just never came out as good as Floequil or Scalecoat jobs. Will have to try some of your findings. Paint would always seem to heavy, almost hiding minute detail as well as having a slight transparancy that requires priming for various colors. Always had a time trying to get that smooth dead flat finish you describe. See what happens next time using some of these suggestions. Going to have to do it well sometime in the near future- solvent paints won't be found one day!
I have been using Floetrol as an additive/ conditioner for all my interior trim painting for quite a few years since those VOC Regs really screwed up all the paint formulas. My word, w/o using a conditioner, it is like painting with Elmer's glue. Quick dry almost on the brush, and brush marks gallore. Floetrol retard the drying and allows the paint to level to a Formica like finish. I never would have considered it for airbrushing acrylics.
Thanks for the tip.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
The colors are exact, but I'm worried about adhesion...
Well, try to mix in some of that liquitex additive and see if you like it. Spray some of the paint thinned with water and then spray some with the additives instead of water or mostly additive with a little water. See if you notice a difference. I'll bet you will.
Hey Chris,
I read your article with interest. I use Floquil as well. I really like how it flows out, etc.
I've used acrylics for weathering, and have just thinned them with water. Worked OK for me...
Tru Line Trains came out with some Prototypical CPR colors and I picked a pile of it up when I was up in Canada railfanning, and I've tried painting a plastic diesel and a brass steamer with it, and it's gonna be a learning experience, it seems.
Van Hobbies H1b, K1a, T1c, D10g, F1a, F2a, G5a. Division Point: H24-66 Hammerhead, Alco covered wagons A-B-B-A, C-Liner A-B-B-A, EMD FP7A A-B-B.
H1b modified to replicate modern day 2816. All with Tsunamis.
Thanks Chris for posting this. I have tried the craft paints and haven't had any luck. I found this interesting on the Dick Blick site
This pre-filtered, ready-to-use medium thins any acrylic, watercolor, or gouache to the right consistency for spray application, while maintaining the integrity of the paint, even at high dilutions. It also decreases clogging and paint buildup.
gouache - that could make weathering even more interesting. At $5 a bottle I'll have to give it try
ratled
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
As the title suggests, I have been re-evaluating my choice of paints and am deciding to give acrylic paint another try. I have been painting my brass locos with Floquil, and Scalecoat I enamel paint and the results are fine but the fumes and clean-up are not the best. Also I am getting sick of paying over 5 bucks for a stupid 1 oz bottle that probably costs pennies to make. So, in my quest I decided to give craft paints a try. I bought some Delta Ceramcoat paints at the craft store and started experimenting. After doing some research on-line I learned quite a bit about how acrylics work and how to thin them. I've heard here and on other sites about people thinning paints with washer fluid and alcohol. I do none of that. All that is going to do is make your paint dry faster. Something you probably don't want if you are trying to airbrush. Also, when you thin your paint you are making the bonds between the acrylic polymers weaker. As the paint is weaker it tends to chip and flake more easily. What I learned to use is a product by Liquitex called acrylic airbrush medium. This is basically used to thin your acrylic paint and preserve the strength of it because it is essentially clear paint (binder with no pigment added). It is about the consistency of skim milk and thins most paints beautifully. For some paints with heavier pigments I have been finishing off with just a bit of distilled water. I've been painting a brass loco with my craft paint mix and it is working well. I also bought some Floetrol at a paint store and have been adding it to the mix. It is an additive for acrylic paint that makes the paint somewhat more slippery to allow it to lay down evenly and improve flow through the airbrush. It also acts as a retarder. It makes a huge difference and the paint is silky smooth even with flat colors and spraying at a higher air pressure than with my solvents. Just thought I'd share. Oh, btw, for those who use Pledge with Future for a gloss coat prior to decaling, you've probably noticed the new Future doesn't seem to airbrush as well as the original stuff. Add Floetrol to the mix. A medicine eyedropper full to 1 oz of Future will make it behave nicely.