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Rivarossi 0-8-0 yard goat parts digram

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  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: ARIZONA
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Rivarossi 0-8-0 yard goat parts digram
Posted by TRACTORSNTRAINS on Saturday, May 21, 2011 8:44 PM

Is it possible for me to see a parts diagram Rivarossi 0-8-0 yard goat?

Also, what sources might I find parts?

Thank you.

Tags: Rivarossi
  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 8,879 posts
Posted by maxman on Saturday, May 21, 2011 10:18 PM

There are some 0-8-0 diagrams at this link: http://hoseeker.org/ahminstructions.html

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: ARIZONA
  • 17 posts
Posted by TRACTORSNTRAINS on Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:41 AM

Thanks! at least there's two diagrams there, but unfortunately, not for my 0-8-0. Mine has the motor in the tender. What I am looking for is the power link from the tender to the locomotive. If possible, I'd also look for the real flexible connector for the drive line. I replaced mine with some hose from auto-zone, which seems like it works...

thank you all.

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Posted by maxman on Sunday, May 22, 2011 3:04 PM
  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: ARIZONA
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Posted by TRACTORSNTRAINS on Sunday, May 22, 2011 8:54 PM

That looks a world more like it. Well the motor parts, not the shell. What is the best route for me to go in finding P-126-052-0025, lead with jack? Yard bird? other routes?

Thank you.

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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Monday, May 23, 2011 10:31 AM

That part appears to be just a simple wire with a spade connector on each end. One of those can easily be made with some 24 to 28 gauge wire, and the spades are optional if the wire assembly is screwed down to the frames.

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  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: ARIZONA
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Posted by TRACTORSNTRAINS on Monday, May 23, 2011 3:51 PM

Darth, thanks. I since you posted, I bored out the round post, to fit the smallest bolt/nut I had. Now I no electric delivery problems. Dose have power delivery problems, and is highly noisy. All the same, it's much better than it was. Give me more time of looking at it on the shelf, and maybe I'll decide/ figure out how to minimize the noise, and get more power from the motor to the wheels. For now I'm tired of taking screws in and out, and trying not to brake solder connections, and will call it enough.

  • Member since
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  • From: Tampa, Florida
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Posted by cedarwoodron on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 7:07 PM

Thanks, also, for the website for the diagrams. I picked up a Rivarossi 0-8-0 that looks like the 1972 version, but it has a round Vanderbilt tender that "came with" the engine. Does that ring a bell- or was it someone's "mismatch"? I found no identifying marks on the tender, just the Rivarossi locomotive.

Feedback???

Thanks, Cedarwoodron

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Posted by ef3 yellowjacket on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 7:59 PM

The Rivarossi 0-8-0 shifter was an HO model of an ALCO product built at the Brooks Locomotive works.  It sported an Elesco feedwater heater, and the proper "Indiana Harbour Belt" lettering on the tender, which was not a vanderbilt-nor even a semi-vanderbilt.  The tender that came with the [R-T-R] engine was a standard square tender with a cut-back coal bunker to aid visibility during reverse switching operations.  The wheels were of those horrid "pizza-cutter" flanges.  Why Rivarossi saw logic in taking an at-the-time highly detailed and fine running model, and completely ruin it with those abortive wheels is probably going to go down as one of those great mysteries of life...

As if lunacy needed a following, Atlas, in 1967, released the exact copy in N-scale-with those same un-lovely flanges!  The model actually ran...

EF-3 Yellowjacket

Rich
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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Wednesday, May 25, 2011 2:27 PM

ef3 yellowjacket
The wheels were of those horrid "pizza-cutter" flanges.  Why Rivarossi saw logic in taking an at-the-time highly detailed and fine running model, and completely ruin it with those abortive wheels is probably going to go down as one of those great mysteries of life...

It's probably because they were a european manufacturer, making their trains to NEM standards. If you look at current european model trains, they still use those large flanges. Even the really high-end models!

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