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Krystal Klear
Krystal Klear
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Krystal Klear
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, July 25, 2004 2:08 PM
Has anyone used this and if so how well did it work? [%-)]
I'm thinking of using it to make new number boards and also the round windows on a 'F' unit.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, July 25, 2004 5:25 PM
It won't work very well for the number boards. For the windows, it depends upon what you will accept. When it dries, it sinks into a concave shape meaning the number board will look recessed. On porthole windows this may not be too bad. One thing about it is that if you don't like the effect, it can be removed. It appears to be something like white glue, but dries clearer.
Bob Boudreau
Canada
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, July 25, 2004 5:31 PM
I like Krystal Klear for gluing clear styrene windows in locomotives and passenger cars. If you use regular cement (Testors, CCA, etc.) and get a drop or a smean where it's visible, that drop or smear is there to stay. That same drop or smear of Krystal Klear is much less visible.
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der5997
Member since
September 2002
From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
2,479 posts
Posted by
der5997
on Sunday, July 25, 2004 5:48 PM
Good to hear from you again Bob B! You are right, any unacceptable window can be removed easilly and redone some other way. KK is not good for anything as large as a loco cab window, it dries too thickly at the frame. (The concave effect Bob mentioned. Since this is a meniscus problem, I wonder if thinning the KK with a detergent might reduce the meniscus? Not too thin, or it won't bridge, I would think. Drying time would be longer too.
I like the idea of using it as a glue for some other form of glazing.
John Wood, Nova Scotia, Canada.
"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, July 25, 2004 11:22 PM
If it dries concave what about adding layers after each one is dry, in other words building it up until it is level?
Anyone try this yet?
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der5997
Member since
September 2002
From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
2,479 posts
Posted by
der5997
on Monday, July 26, 2004 8:35 AM
jar: I think that it would be quite difficult to get the additional layers to stay in the middle and not flow to the edges. I think you would continue to have the meniscus at the edges building up with each layer. The center would be stronger and thicker, but the edges would be thicker still.
Haven't tried it. Be our guest! [:D]
"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.
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BR60103
Member since
January 2001
From: Guelph, Ont.
1,476 posts
Posted by
BR60103
on Sunday, August 1, 2004 11:35 PM
try letting it dry with the outside surface downwards so that gravity pulls it into shape.
It should do an acceptable job just filling the front of the numberboard.
--David
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der5997
Member since
September 2002
From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
2,479 posts
Posted by
der5997
on Tuesday, August 3, 2004 8:00 PM
David: I don't think the KK sags under gravity, but climbs the sides of whatever container (in this case a window frame or number board box) it's put in. Defies gravity in fact! In that respect it's like water in a glass, it clings to the sides and creeps up.
"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.
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