I use regular Testors model paint brushes..The main key is a light brush stroke in one direction, and proper paint mix.Also I use the tip of the brush.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Soft brushes with synthetic Taklon bristles will help reduce the brushmarks.
Mike
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
I also use the rattle can spray method for painting styrene/plastic brick structures. Rustoleum's primer colors (red, brown and even gray) sprayed on in very thin coats; generally two very thin coats work best for me. I then go over the structure with a painting of the mortar color of your choice, immediately wiping it off while still wet, leaving the "mortar" in the joints. The chosen mortar color (usually grey, light grey, white or off-white, depending on the color of your brick) is a craft (Ceramcoat, Apple Barrel, etc.) acrylic paint.
jacon12 Lee, I'd much rather use spray paint for this type structure. The spray can eliminates the brush mark problem for me. Jarrell
Lee, I'd much rather use spray paint for this type structure.
The spray can eliminates the brush mark problem for me.
Jarrell
Spraying is no fun. It happens too fast and looks too good. LOL
Rich
Alton Junction
Hi!
As my dear ol daddy used to say, "there's more than one way to skin a cat" - which refers to driving heavy equipment by the way............
Oil base, water base, spray can, brush, airbrush, all have their places in painting models. For structures, I typically use oil base brushed on, although I used acrylics for concrete and tankage. Two coats is pretty normal for coverage, sometimes three. It is better to put on 3 thin coats than 1 heavy coat as details are covered.
The "trick" to good brush painting is having the paint the right consistency, using a decent (and proper) brush for the job, and smooth application with strokes going the same direction. Yup, it does take practice and patience.
Oh, as with full size brushes for house painting, etc., with artists brushes you get what you pay for. Invest in a set of flats and rounds from Michaels or Hobby Lobby, take proper care of them, and they will last you for many years.
One last comment - you can take a cheap plain structure and do some creative painting on it and end up with a really good looking piece.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Lee, I'd much rather use spray paint for this type structure. Then all you have to do is come back and brush paint the details such as window ledges. I spray paint, with a rattle can, windows and doors also.. while they're still on the sprue. Believe me, it makes life a lot easier. I then use Robert's Brick and Mortar solution to do the mortar lines, like this,
Yes, two or even three coats acrylic paint on plastic structures is typical.
And by all means use artist brushes not the cheap brushes that kids use to water color. You should not have any brush marks on the completed structure.
It's normal to need multiple coats when hand-painting plastic with acrylics.
Finer brushes might help, or you could thin the paint a bit with water to reduce the scale of the brush strokes. If you give the completed items a spray of Dul-Coat, it will also make the brush strokes less evident.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I'm putting two coats of acrylic paint on much of the Cornerstone structure (933-3006). Is that normal? I also notice that the fuel tanks show brush strokes. Should I be using artist brushes vs. the craft ones from Michaels? Artist brushes can be $3-5+ each.
TIA!
Lee