How do you connect modules together?

[Anonymous]

How do you go about connectiong modules together ?

I'm not asking so much in the formal club or train show sense, but on my own personal layout. For several unintersting reasons I'm thinking I may have to have two seperate layouts with their own benchwork, etc. My question is sorta generic, how do you actually connect the tracks together assuming I can move the benchwork physically next to each other and secure the benchwork platforms together? Then later seperate them, etc. I wouldn't want to run them seperatly when they are split up, I'd just run the 'main' layout and then at times connect the other layout.

Any help here ? Thanks

[cacole]

Your best bet would be to check the NMRA Web site and peruse their modular layout standards. Basically, on portable modules, the tracks for adjoining modules are a set distance from the front, and the tracks end 4.5 inches from the module end. As the two modules are butted together, a standard piece of Atlas snap track, which is 9 inches long, is placed across the gap between the modules and the two parts are clamped together. For non-portable modules, you could do the same. Have at least one track leading to within 4.5 inches of an edge, and a set distance from the front, on both halves. Then butt them together and put a 9-inch piece of track between to connect the two halves. Since you're not building modules designed to marry up with other people's modules, the distance between doesn't even need to be exactly 9 inches -- just cut a piece of flex track to fit the gap accordingly.

[DSchmitt]

I agree with cacole[:)]

The easiest way is to connect the tracks across the joint is the way NTRAK and many HO modular groups do it. Use a short piece of sectional track. This can be done quickly and allows for slight inperfections in allignment.

It does not have to be a full section (like Atlas 9" in HO) Atlas for instance makes other lengths (a 1/2 section or even shorter will do).

I have seen butting the rail ends together done successfully (both with and without rail joiners), but this takes very high construction standards, alingnment can take a lot of time, and even slight expansion/contraction or warping can ruin the alignment.

[Anonymous]

Bolts, and lots of em! [:D]
Seriously, the modular group I am part of just uses 2 bolts at each joint, with 6 inch track sections slid in place. The main thing is that all the bolt holes and track centers (whether you adhere to NMRA spaceing or not) is consistent from one module to the next. Either a strict set of standards or even better yet, a template derived from those standards should be used in the construction,so that you can maintain true flexability in how you arrange those modules.

[Big_Boy_4005]

For the benchwork bolts of course. I like a carriage bolt with a wingnut. This combination of hardware needs no tools, just strong fingers. I've seen some groups use clamps.

If you are planning non interchangable modules, you might get away just cutting the track at the ends, and using joiners. If you plan to set up and tear down often, it's probably a better idea to go with the short removable section, Ntrack style.

[Don Gibson]

I once used carriage bolts and wingnuts to bolt ends of modules together. This may work for clubs, but there was too much play for home use. Carriage bolts have to have larger than bolt size holes to insert and remove.

For starters you have to have adjustable hardware in the legs to even things up.
I followed David Barrow's advice and then 'C' clamped them together so the tops were as uniform as I could get, then drove home some dry wall screws into both end pieces.
They HOLD, and now the C Clamps can be removed.

I recommend using 6" - 9" of sectional track across the seam (3" per side) to eliminate any vertical mismatch. Even $45 plywood has some 'bow' to it, and two pieces end-to-end might not 'bow' in exactly the same place.

Cross seams with sectional track Why? - Uniformity of length.

Got it?

[Jetrock]

On my dad's old layout (a 6x12 layout that split into four 3x6 modules) the sections were held together with four pairs of door hinges--the kind with a removable pin. One half of each hinge went on each corner of the module--to put them together, you just butt two modules together with the mating hinges and drop in the pin. It took a little shoving but was very sturdy and the track connected flawlessly.

[orsonroy]

I generally like the C-clamp method of holding sections together. It's elegantly simple, and they don't require tools. My last layout was sectional on standard 2x4 modules, and that's how I held the entire 12x22 thing together.

As for connecting track together, I've used two methods. On my Ntrak club, we use a standard piece of Atlas straight track. A local HO modular club does the same thing. It works well (trains actually do run) but it's not perfect. Generally, the track sections like to bow upwards because one section has been overtightened, and the tolerances have been made overtight (because no one likes gaps). There's also the possibility of having a longish section of track that's not hardwired to the power buss, meaning a train could stall out completely on the main.

I opted for another method for my last layout. I laid track right over sections, to ensure a smooth track profile and proper alignment. I then cut 2" out of the rails at each module gap, and sanded down the ties. I then added a new section of loose rail to each gap with rail joiners on each end. I likes the look of these short sections better, they flowed into the overall look of the layout well, and they didn't bow. And if they were to become electrically dead, chances were that an engine's flywheel would kick it to the next powered section.