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Kadee Couplers...

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: upstate NY
  • 9,236 posts
Posted by galaxy on Saturday, April 16, 2011 6:31 AM

Here is also a conversion chart to KaDees:

http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf

It may help you also!

-G .

Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.

 HO and N Scale.

After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Saturday, April 16, 2011 6:28 AM

I use the 148's on my Atlas loco's and they hold great on 3 loco consists.  As noted you simply got the long version with the 146.

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, April 16, 2011 5:39 AM

KevinsHope

Hello again all!

      If you are just an enthusiest with model railroading, as apposed to a hobbiest, looking for the right Kadee couplers can be overwelming.  There are so many kinds!  I have a couple Atlas Engines that I need to keep coupled when they are on the go. I want some super good couplers that will hold their grip. I bought Kadee couplers #146.  These are great couplers, but the shafts on them are too long.  So, what number Kadee do I need, or is there something even better?

 

Selecting the proper Kadee coupler can appear to be a daunting task, but it is really quite easy once you understand the Kadee classification system.

hon30critter covered the basic pretty well in his reply and the link he provided, which I have restated here, provides all of the essential information.

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm

If you study those charts, you will see that Kadee groups its couplers by material (plastic vs. metal), shank (centerset, underset, overset), length (short, medium, large), size (standard vs. scale), and spring (bronze centering vs. whisker).

In terms of material, Kadee manufacturers a variety of plastic couplers but most modelers choose the metal couplers for a variety of reasons.

The shank is determined by your individual needs although the typical shank is the centerset.  An  underset shank raises knuckle height, while an overset shank lowers knuckler height.

The length of the coupler seems to be your issue.  The short length coupler extends .25", that is 1/4 inch or 16/64.  The medium length coupler extends .28125", that is 9/32 or 18/64.  The long length coupler is .3906", that is 25/64.  So, you can see the difference that the length makes especially when you consider that the length difference is doubled when two cars are connected.

The size of the coupler differentiates the serious modeler from the model railroading enthusiast to use your terminology.  Most enthusiasts use the standard size while the serious modeler will often choose the smaller scale size.

The final difference is the spring used to return the coupler to its center position.  The traditional Kadee coupler uses a bronze centering spring which acts as a bed for the coupler to rest in.  The sides of the spring push the coupler back into its center position.  The newer whisker coupler actually incorporates the spring into the coupler by adding what I call a pair of eyelashes onto the sides of the coupler to return it to its center position.

The "standard" Kadee coupler is the #5.  The #5 is a standard size metal medium centerset shank coupler with a bronze centering spring.  This is an extremely popular coupler and is the "typical" selection unless a different coupler is needed for specific applications.

You selected the #146 Kadee coupler which is a standard size metal long centerset shank whisker coupler.   The whisker does away with the need to use the bronze centering spring.  I personally prefer the whisker coupler.  However, your selection of the long centerset is your problem.  The medium centerset shank equivalent is the #148, and that is what you should use to replace the #146.  Incidentally, the #5 coupler is identical to the #148 coupler in every way except the spring.  The #5 coupler is not a whisker coupler so it requires a bronze centering spring.

There you go.  You are now an expert in the selection of Kadee couplers.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
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Posted by hon30critter on Saturday, April 16, 2011 12:54 AM

Hi KevinsHope

First, I don't think you will find too many people who can suggest "something even better". Kadee is considered to be the bench mark in couplers.

The #146 couplers that you purchased are the 'long shank' variety which likely explains why your locos are too far apart. There are two alternatives i.e. #148 medium shank, and #143 short shank couplers both of which are center set. There are overset and underset couplers in both lengths if your mounting point is not at the recommended height. Check out this chart for further info:

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • 64 posts
Kadee Couplers...
Posted by KevinsHope on Saturday, April 16, 2011 12:18 AM

Hello again all!

      If you are just an enthusiest with model railroading, as apposed to a hobbiest, looking for the right Kadee couplers can be overwelming.  There are so many kinds!  I have a couple Atlas Engines that I need to keep coupled when they are on the go. I want some super good couplers that will hold their grip. I bought Kadee couplers #146.  These are great couplers, but the shafts on them are too long.  So, what number Kadee do I need, or is there something even better?

 

 

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