Still far from finish, but ...
here's a pic with trestle test fitted:
I know, the module should be two feet deeper, but then I would run into big problems with a module!
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
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Very nice work Wolfgang, excellent rock making! It will be a very nice scene!
The rocks got some color. But I'm still not stisfied with the color ....
Wolfgang, What method and material did you use? For coloring, to have that rock detail "Pop" and show, try washes of gray/ brown and allow to run and settle into the crevases. If acrylics use water/ alcohol mix and excess blotted w/ paper towel. Once dried the base colors can be dry brushed artist's acrylics to bring back the highlights. It is amazing how many colors you can "throw" at the rocks and it is Real from all those minerals. Blue, greens yellows and my favorite rust for all that iron. I model New England granite and shale.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I like to use apple barrel brand of acrylics. I like burnt umber, flesh tone, black and off white. You can buy these at Wal-Mart in the crafts section. I usually dilute them with a brush that is heavy with water so that it goes on easy and doesn't cover up the details. I usually let the rocks sit over night between colors so you don't get any "bleed through" from the previous color. Also I use plaster of paris as my rock medium. Those are very good looking rocks you made, are they factory molds or did you make your own? I have a combination of both to use. You can also tint the medium before you pour it in the molds but this sometimes causes the medium not to be as stable and crumbles or breaks easier.
Hope this helps,
Ray
B&O SteamDemon You can also tint the medium before you pour it in the molds but this sometimes causes the medium not to be as stable and crumbles or breaks easier. Hope this helps, Ray
You can also tint the medium before you pour it in the molds but this sometimes causes the medium not to be as stable and crumbles or breaks easier.
Ray, Coloring concrete, masonry and plaster is done with specific dyes. These can be powdered or liquid. Yes, if you use excessive amounts of paint or the Sacrete type liquid products, you can affect the curing and dried properties of the medium.
I prefer the powdered dyes, this can be added to the dry plaster prior to adding water. It comes in a variety of base colors. I use black, brown, red clay, yellow, green and blue. For the most part a teaspoon of iron black and same of brown added to dry Hydrocal prior to adding the water is technique that has proved to be a decent base color for the rocks I model. These products are specifically formulated to color concrete and mortor. They will not have any adverse affects to the final cured
product. http://www.lambertusa.com/color/id144.htm
One of the main reasons I use this, is my work is a club setting where the scenery may have to stand some abuse. (none of those brite white spots from nicks and chips)
This is some of the colored work. Much of what you see is the base color from the dye. weathered slightly and some washes added as you descibe. All the rock, retaining walls, portals and even roads are done this way.
And four pics from today. At the start today:
I removed the trestles and added wasches with umbra and sienna like I've read in an article from Paul Scoles in MRC.
Then I added a wash with ink. Also I airbrushed the tunnel roof with black.
I think I've finished it so far. I can fasten the trestles.