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masking tape

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Posted by jerryl on Saturday, March 26, 2011 8:11 PM

Lateral-G

 

 jerryl:

 

What is your favorite masking tape?  Yes, I mean using it for actually masking before painting.

    Also, how long should you wait before masking over solvent based paint to minimize the possibility of pulling the paint off while removing it.   Thanks

 

 

 

Tamiya tape......

I pull it off as soon as practical after spraying with no problems.

I guess I wasn't clear. I meant, How long should the base coat of a solvent based paint dry before you mask it & apply the second color.  thanks?

-G-

 

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Posted by HobbyDr on Saturday, March 26, 2011 11:06 AM

Let me add my preference for the Tamiya tape. It comes in three widths, and I love it. Of course it is a little expensive, so I only use it at the paint line. I back it up and cover large areas with the low-tack blue painters tape.

I have found masking to be relaxing, and it is now my favorite "hobby with-in a hobby." Is there something wrong with me?

Don

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  • From: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted by Steve_F on Saturday, March 26, 2011 1:00 AM

Another happy Tamiya tape user here.

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Posted by Forty Niner on Friday, March 25, 2011 9:11 AM

ef3 yellowjacket

Now Now, Mark; That is what this forum is for-um...right?

I hate this when my wife says this but................HUH?

Mark

WGAS

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Posted by Lateral-G on Friday, March 25, 2011 8:55 AM

jerryl

What is your favorite masking tape?  Yes, I mean using it for actually masking before painting.

    Also, how long should you wait before masking over solvent based paint to minimize the possibility of pulling the paint off while removing it.   Thanks

 

Tamiya tape......

I pull it off as soon as practical after spraying with no problems.

 

-G-

 

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    March 2009
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Posted by ef3 yellowjacket on Friday, March 25, 2011 8:51 AM

Now Now, Mark; That is what this forum is for-um...right?

Rich
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Posted by Forty Niner on Friday, March 25, 2011 8:35 AM

bogp40

 Forty Niner:

I use the same masking tape they sell to body shops and always have, never any problems. I also use architect's tape as well, sometimes for the stripes instead of decals. By that I mean I paint the surface, then apply the tape over it and continue painting. When I'm done I remove the tape and there's my striping, in paint instead of decals. Works great on those really tough stripe jobs.

OOPS!! I gave away my secret...............by the way, the architect's tape comes in several widths from about 1/16th of an inch on up.

Mark

WGAS

 

Mark are you referring to the 3M Fineline tape or the masking tape for the tape/paper machine?

The 3M fineline tape is possibly the best product to use for the initial parting line. The tape is a vinyl product and can be cut shaped w/ an Xacto blade w/o any fuz ever. The beauty of the tape is that it can be burnished along the edge an pressed into cracks and over protrusions such as hood hinges ect. After the first line of tape is applied, I just use the Painter's tape to finish masking off the model. It produces the cleanest/ sharpest parting between colors w/o any bleed under whatsoever. Has never pulled off any paint. I generally paint w/ Floequil or Scalcoat II solvent. The paint dries to touch in minutes. I will strip the mask in about 15-20 min. and peal back at a sharp angle.

The tape is found at Auto paint stores and is avail in widths from 1/8 to 1/4" normally, wider versions may be found but it is harder to control. A roll of this tape will last many, many years. When using it I will never lay it on anything but the plastic bag it comes in. (This should be done w/ any tape) This prevents the tape from picking up stray dirt from the workbench. I will store it in it's bag and then in a qt size ziplock.

Before this I used to use Drafting tape. This is the same as the Architect tape descibed above.

If you plan to use only the blue painter's tape, there is one 3M version that is plastic instead of paper. This can work almost the same. 

Well, I guess it is really called "pinstriping tape" and not architect's tape, I usually got mine from the "Snap-On" tool guy but the "Mac Tools" guy also sells it. It's basically the regular masking tape that has been "sliced" to smaller sizes. I never had a problem with "bleed through" but a person must take their time and be thorough about making sure it is all making contact with the area to be painted. As with anything that you want done well, care and time must be taken to insure the end result will be what you expect. Half way prep work gets you half way jobs. I haven't used a "decal stripes" for over 30 years and can honestly say I haven't missed fighting with them either.

Mark

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Posted by loathar on Friday, March 25, 2011 1:16 AM

I found some tape at a flee market from a company called TESA.

http://www.tesatape.com/

It's a plastic based, low tack tape that gives super sharp lines and no bleed at all.

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Posted by bogp40 on Thursday, March 24, 2011 5:06 PM

Forty Niner

I use the same masking tape they sell to body shops and always have, never any problems. I also use architect's tape as well, sometimes for the stripes instead of decals. By that I mean I paint the surface, then apply the tape over it and continue painting. When I'm done I remove the tape and there's my striping, in paint instead of decals. Works great on those really tough stripe jobs.

OOPS!! I gave away my secret...............by the way, the architect's tape comes in several widths from about 1/16th of an inch on up.

Mark

WGAS

Mark are you referring to the 3M Fineline tape or the masking tape for the tape/paper machine?

The 3M fineline tape is possibly the best product to use for the initial parting line. The tape is a vinyl product and can be cut shaped w/ an Xacto blade w/o any fuz ever. The beauty of the tape is that it can be burnished along the edge an pressed into cracks and over protrusions such as hood hinges ect. After the first line of tape is applied, I just use the Painter's tape to finish masking off the model. It produces the cleanest/ sharpest parting between colors w/o any bleed under whatsoever. Has never pulled off any paint. I generally paint w/ Floequil or Scalcoat II solvent. The paint dries to touch in minutes. I will strip the mask in about 15-20 min. and peal back at a sharp angle.

The tape is found at Auto paint stores and is avail in widths from 1/8 to 1/4" normally, wider versions may be found but it is harder to control. A roll of this tape will last many, many years. When using it I will never lay it on anything but the plastic bag it comes in. (This should be done w/ any tape) This prevents the tape from picking up stray dirt from the workbench. I will store it in it's bag and then in a qt size ziplock.

Before this I used to use Drafting tape. This is the same as the Architect tape descibed above.

If you plan to use only the blue painter's tape, there is one 3M version that is plastic instead of paper. This can work almost the same. 

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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Posted by jerryl on Thursday, March 24, 2011 2:29 PM

Curt Webb

Something I have done with the blue tape before applying it to a model to be painted is to tape it to a kitchen granite counter top. When you pull it up and reapply it on your model it is sticky enough, but has a reduced stickiness.

  I was looking for an excuse to get a granite counter top!

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Posted by Forty Niner on Thursday, March 24, 2011 1:45 PM

I use the same masking tape they sell to body shops and always have, never any problems. I also use architect's tape as well, sometimes for the stripes instead of decals. By that I mean I paint the surface, then apply the tape over it and continue painting. When I'm done I remove the tape and there's my striping, in paint instead of decals. Works great on those really tough stripe jobs.

OOPS!! I gave away my secret...............by the way, the architect's tape comes in several widths from about 1/16th of an inch on up.

Mark

WGAS

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Posted by Curt Webb on Thursday, March 24, 2011 11:45 AM

Something I have done with the blue tape before applying it to a model to be painted is to tape it to a kitchen granite counter top. When you pull it up and reapply it on your model it is sticky enough, but has a reduced stickiness.

Curt Webb

The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad

http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j372/curtwbb/

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Posted by CascadeBob on Thursday, March 24, 2011 11:32 AM

You should be aware that the blue 3M painters tape comes in varying adhesiveness.  The adhesiveness level is printed on the inside of the roll.  For example: "Painters Tape for Delicate Surfaces", which I believe is the tape with the minimum amount of adhesiveness.  This tape has a relatively smooth surface, whereas the general purpose 3M painters tape (greater adhesiveness) has a rougher surface.

Hope this helps,

Bob

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Posted by ef3 yellowjacket on Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:43 AM

Hi Guys;

An addendum that is rather well known:  When you mask a model to paint, spray some clear lightly along the seams.  What this will do is protect from bleed-through.  When it is dry, paint the model your intended colours; but when you are taking it off, take a decal knife (with a sharp blade) and carefully and LIGHTLY run it along the seam of the tape.  If all is done correctly, the tape should come off sans any of the new finish.

EF-3 Yellowjacket.

Rich
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Posted by ho modern modeler on Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:40 AM

I use Frog Tape for everything except Acrylic paint on Passenger cars, regular Scotch transparent tape (stripes). I've found that the blue masking tape pulls everything off after 24 hrs, even the paint. Also the Frog Tape has a sharper edge, the blue is uneven and comes off the roll in some kind of arc.

Mine doesn't move.......it's at the station!!!

 

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:21 AM

I use the blue painters' tape, too.  It's a bit thinner than masking tape, and has been formulated specifically for masking over paint.

I usually give a paint job a day to set before masking over it, but I've never pushed the limit on making it shorter.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by Mike Kieran on Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:16 AM

David, I agree. Different manufacturers use different lettering and seal the lettering to various degrees. I was wondering if a light spray of Dullcoat would eliminate your problem/new technique. Some of the best inventions and discoveries were accidental.

__________________________________________________________________

Mike Kieran

Port Able Railway

I just do what the majority of the voices in my head vote on.

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Posted by DavidP on Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:04 AM

A little secret about the Blue tape, I dont have photos to post yet, but, while masking an area of a MDC 3-bay hopper for air-brushing, the tape removed the lettering from the car. Now, before I lost my cool,something awesome was revealed, GHOST LETTERING! I quickly ran all over the shop trying the tape on other models. It only works on the MDC hoppers I had. So a little off topic, but, be careful with some lettered cars and applyed decals as well. 

jrf
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Posted by jrf on Thursday, March 24, 2011 9:41 AM

I like Painters Tape which is a 3M product.  It's blue in color and it has never left any residue on anything I've used it on which is obviously the point of using this type of tape.

John F.
Perham, MN
Railfan Photography | Modeling HO Scale Trains & O Gauge Trains


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masking tape
Posted by jerryl on Thursday, March 24, 2011 9:37 AM

What is your favorite masking tape?  Yes, I mean using it for actually masking before painting.

    Also, how long should you wait before masking over solvent based paint to minimize the possibility of pulling the paint off while removing it.   Thanks

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