Lateral-G jerryl: What is your favorite masking tape? Yes, I mean using it for actually masking before painting. Also, how long should you wait before masking over solvent based paint to minimize the possibility of pulling the paint off while removing it. Thanks Tamiya tape...... I pull it off as soon as practical after spraying with no problems. I guess I wasn't clear. I meant, How long should the base coat of a solvent based paint dry before you mask it & apply the second color. thanks? -G-
jerryl: What is your favorite masking tape? Yes, I mean using it for actually masking before painting. Also, how long should you wait before masking over solvent based paint to minimize the possibility of pulling the paint off while removing it. Thanks
What is your favorite masking tape? Yes, I mean using it for actually masking before painting.
Also, how long should you wait before masking over solvent based paint to minimize the possibility of pulling the paint off while removing it. Thanks
Tamiya tape......
I pull it off as soon as practical after spraying with no problems.
I guess I wasn't clear. I meant, How long should the base coat of a solvent based paint dry before you mask it & apply the second color. thanks?
-G-
Let me add my preference for the Tamiya tape. It comes in three widths, and I love it. Of course it is a little expensive, so I only use it at the paint line. I back it up and cover large areas with the low-tack blue painters tape.
I have found masking to be relaxing, and it is now my favorite "hobby with-in a hobby." Is there something wrong with me?
Don
HobbyDr's Workbench
Another happy Tamiya tape user here.
ef3 yellowjacket Now Now, Mark; That is what this forum is for-um...right?
Now Now, Mark; That is what this forum is for-um...right?
I hate this when my wife says this but................HUH?
Mark
WGAS
jerryl What is your favorite masking tape? Yes, I mean using it for actually masking before painting. Also, how long should you wait before masking over solvent based paint to minimize the possibility of pulling the paint off while removing it. Thanks
bogp40 Forty Niner: I use the same masking tape they sell to body shops and always have, never any problems. I also use architect's tape as well, sometimes for the stripes instead of decals. By that I mean I paint the surface, then apply the tape over it and continue painting. When I'm done I remove the tape and there's my striping, in paint instead of decals. Works great on those really tough stripe jobs. OOPS!! I gave away my secret...............by the way, the architect's tape comes in several widths from about 1/16th of an inch on up. Mark WGAS Mark are you referring to the 3M Fineline tape or the masking tape for the tape/paper machine? The 3M fineline tape is possibly the best product to use for the initial parting line. The tape is a vinyl product and can be cut shaped w/ an Xacto blade w/o any fuz ever. The beauty of the tape is that it can be burnished along the edge an pressed into cracks and over protrusions such as hood hinges ect. After the first line of tape is applied, I just use the Painter's tape to finish masking off the model. It produces the cleanest/ sharpest parting between colors w/o any bleed under whatsoever. Has never pulled off any paint. I generally paint w/ Floequil or Scalcoat II solvent. The paint dries to touch in minutes. I will strip the mask in about 15-20 min. and peal back at a sharp angle. The tape is found at Auto paint stores and is avail in widths from 1/8 to 1/4" normally, wider versions may be found but it is harder to control. A roll of this tape will last many, many years. When using it I will never lay it on anything but the plastic bag it comes in. (This should be done w/ any tape) This prevents the tape from picking up stray dirt from the workbench. I will store it in it's bag and then in a qt size ziplock. Before this I used to use Drafting tape. This is the same as the Architect tape descibed above. If you plan to use only the blue painter's tape, there is one 3M version that is plastic instead of paper. This can work almost the same.
Forty Niner: I use the same masking tape they sell to body shops and always have, never any problems. I also use architect's tape as well, sometimes for the stripes instead of decals. By that I mean I paint the surface, then apply the tape over it and continue painting. When I'm done I remove the tape and there's my striping, in paint instead of decals. Works great on those really tough stripe jobs. OOPS!! I gave away my secret...............by the way, the architect's tape comes in several widths from about 1/16th of an inch on up. Mark WGAS
I use the same masking tape they sell to body shops and always have, never any problems. I also use architect's tape as well, sometimes for the stripes instead of decals. By that I mean I paint the surface, then apply the tape over it and continue painting. When I'm done I remove the tape and there's my striping, in paint instead of decals. Works great on those really tough stripe jobs.
OOPS!! I gave away my secret...............by the way, the architect's tape comes in several widths from about 1/16th of an inch on up.
Mark are you referring to the 3M Fineline tape or the masking tape for the tape/paper machine?
The 3M fineline tape is possibly the best product to use for the initial parting line. The tape is a vinyl product and can be cut shaped w/ an Xacto blade w/o any fuz ever. The beauty of the tape is that it can be burnished along the edge an pressed into cracks and over protrusions such as hood hinges ect. After the first line of tape is applied, I just use the Painter's tape to finish masking off the model. It produces the cleanest/ sharpest parting between colors w/o any bleed under whatsoever. Has never pulled off any paint. I generally paint w/ Floequil or Scalcoat II solvent. The paint dries to touch in minutes. I will strip the mask in about 15-20 min. and peal back at a sharp angle.
The tape is found at Auto paint stores and is avail in widths from 1/8 to 1/4" normally, wider versions may be found but it is harder to control. A roll of this tape will last many, many years. When using it I will never lay it on anything but the plastic bag it comes in. (This should be done w/ any tape) This prevents the tape from picking up stray dirt from the workbench. I will store it in it's bag and then in a qt size ziplock.
Before this I used to use Drafting tape. This is the same as the Architect tape descibed above.
If you plan to use only the blue painter's tape, there is one 3M version that is plastic instead of paper. This can work almost the same.
Well, I guess it is really called "pinstriping tape" and not architect's tape, I usually got mine from the "Snap-On" tool guy but the "Mac Tools" guy also sells it. It's basically the regular masking tape that has been "sliced" to smaller sizes. I never had a problem with "bleed through" but a person must take their time and be thorough about making sure it is all making contact with the area to be painted. As with anything that you want done well, care and time must be taken to insure the end result will be what you expect. Half way prep work gets you half way jobs. I haven't used a "decal stripes" for over 30 years and can honestly say I haven't missed fighting with them either.
I found some tape at a flee market from a company called TESA.
http://www.tesatape.com/
It's a plastic based, low tack tape that gives super sharp lines and no bleed at all.
Forty Niner I use the same masking tape they sell to body shops and always have, never any problems. I also use architect's tape as well, sometimes for the stripes instead of decals. By that I mean I paint the surface, then apply the tape over it and continue painting. When I'm done I remove the tape and there's my striping, in paint instead of decals. Works great on those really tough stripe jobs. OOPS!! I gave away my secret...............by the way, the architect's tape comes in several widths from about 1/16th of an inch on up. Mark WGAS
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Curt Webb Something I have done with the blue tape before applying it to a model to be painted is to tape it to a kitchen granite counter top. When you pull it up and reapply it on your model it is sticky enough, but has a reduced stickiness.
Something I have done with the blue tape before applying it to a model to be painted is to tape it to a kitchen granite counter top. When you pull it up and reapply it on your model it is sticky enough, but has a reduced stickiness.
I was looking for an excuse to get a granite counter top!
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j372/curtwbb/
You should be aware that the blue 3M painters tape comes in varying adhesiveness. The adhesiveness level is printed on the inside of the roll. For example: "Painters Tape for Delicate Surfaces", which I believe is the tape with the minimum amount of adhesiveness. This tape has a relatively smooth surface, whereas the general purpose 3M painters tape (greater adhesiveness) has a rougher surface.
Hope this helps,
Bob
Hi Guys;
An addendum that is rather well known: When you mask a model to paint, spray some clear lightly along the seams. What this will do is protect from bleed-through. When it is dry, paint the model your intended colours; but when you are taking it off, take a decal knife (with a sharp blade) and carefully and LIGHTLY run it along the seam of the tape. If all is done correctly, the tape should come off sans any of the new finish.
EF-3 Yellowjacket.
I use Frog Tape for everything except Acrylic paint on Passenger cars, regular Scotch transparent tape (stripes). I've found that the blue masking tape pulls everything off after 24 hrs, even the paint. Also the Frog Tape has a sharper edge, the blue is uneven and comes off the roll in some kind of arc.
Mine doesn't move.......it's at the station!!!
I use the blue painters' tape, too. It's a bit thinner than masking tape, and has been formulated specifically for masking over paint.
I usually give a paint job a day to set before masking over it, but I've never pushed the limit on making it shorter.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
David, I agree. Different manufacturers use different lettering and seal the lettering to various degrees. I was wondering if a light spray of Dullcoat would eliminate your problem/new technique. Some of the best inventions and discoveries were accidental.
__________________________________________________________________
Mike Kieran
Port Able Railway
I just do what the majority of the voices in my head vote on.
A little secret about the Blue tape, I dont have photos to post yet, but, while masking an area of a MDC 3-bay hopper for air-brushing, the tape removed the lettering from the car. Now, before I lost my cool,something awesome was revealed, GHOST LETTERING! I quickly ran all over the shop trying the tape on other models. It only works on the MDC hoppers I had. So a little off topic, but, be careful with some lettered cars and applyed decals as well.
I like Painters Tape which is a 3M product. It's blue in color and it has never left any residue on anything I've used it on which is obviously the point of using this type of tape.
John F.Perham, MNRailfan Photography | Modeling HO Scale Trains & O Gauge Trains