Well I went to Michaels Crafts Store and picked up a 2lb bag of corse black sand.I cut a piece of foam and shaped it to fit the tender.Then I painted it flat black,Poured some sand on top of it and along the sides. And used diluted white glue to hold it in place. Let it dry over night and placed it in the tender this morning.
I think it is satisfactory, But maybe not quite the look I'm after. I like the photo's of Real Coal loads so maybe I'll try that too. Here's a couple of shots with the load in place..
I agree with Rich. Here is a shot of some real coal. -Stan
I use coal.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Coal.
Cheers
Roger T.
Home of the late Great Eastern Railway see: - http://www.greateasternrailway.com
For more photos of the late GER see: - http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/Great_Eastern/
Cowman has a Great post on simulating coal loads! F.Y.I: I live near coal-fired electric generation plant. The black glass particles left over from the burn, is called Black Beauty here and is sold in 80# bags, as blast medium, in 3 or 4 grit sizes. It's the most realistic material I've ever seen, to use for replicating coal loads; be they in open hopper, loco tender or coal pile. My 2 cents...papasmurf in NH
In my younger days I used ground up real coal that I would find alongside the track. Sometimes some would fall off some of the hoppers going through. That still happens today but I'm in no shape to be going after it. Wouldn't matter anyway as I run diesels now. Occasionally I may add some to a on a hopper to improve a sorry looking plastic coal load. It's much easier to use coal that I buy from Bachmann in fine, medium or coarse grades.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Forty Niner Hey Tom, Is that a PFM Santa Fe 2-10-2 in the background carrying those D&RGW colors? I'm assuming the front one is a Trains Inc 2-8-0? Looks nice, sure wish someone would make an "inexpensive" Rio Grande 2-10-2, those PFM's are an "oucher" when to come to the money for them. Layout looks nice as well and I like the way you have blended in the ballast. Mark WGAS
Hey Tom, Is that a PFM Santa Fe 2-10-2 in the background carrying those D&RGW colors? I'm assuming the front one is a Trains Inc 2-8-0? Looks nice, sure wish someone would make an "inexpensive" Rio Grande 2-10-2, those PFM's are an "oucher" when to come to the money for them. Layout looks nice as well and I like the way you have blended in the ballast.
Mark
WGAS
Mark:
Yes, it's a PFM Santa Fe. I got it at a swap meet for about $25, some years back, it was a real 'junker'. I turned it into a 'kinda/sorta' Rio Grande F-81 with a lot of Cal-scale and PSC detail parts, as there was no way I could afford a 'real' PFM F-81. A couple of years ago, I was able to afford a PSC F-81--an absolute JEWEL of a 2-10-2, so I've got both the 'real thing' and a 'kinda-sorta'. Actually, with a lot of TLC, the PFM is a very smooth runner, and I often use the two together on long drag freights or coal trains.
The Trains, Inc. 2-8-0 was another 'bargain' from Caboose Hobbies. Just checked, and they've got a couple of others on consignment in the $200 range. I might just pick me up another one. They're very nice runners--especially changing out the motors to a 'can'. IMO they're just about the 'cutest' little 2-8-0 I can think of.
Thanks for the compliment on the ballast. Believe me, it was just sheer ACCIDENT, LOL!
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
That sound like the way to go. MTH uses real coal on their loco's and it of course looks real.
Springfield PA
I topped up all my plastic steamers with Woodland Scenics coal.
Added the coal then used Woodland scenics scenery adhesive to hold it in place.
Brought to you by the letters C.P.R. as well as D&H!
K1a - all the way
Thanks for the Great Replies Guy's, I like the idea of using a magnate.. I will go to a crafts store today and get some black coarse sand.
I carve a piece of balsa wood to simulate the coal load, spray it with gloss black paint, use a coat of clear cement and cover with Life-like coal, pressing it in. Let it dry about 12 hours, shake off the excess coal, repeat if necessary, then pop it into the tender. I like a little 'shine' to the coal, but that's just me.
I haven't made a coal load for a tender, but I have made hopper loads and the tecnnique should be the same.
Cut a piece of foam insullation (pink or blue) to fit in the opening. Shape it, I would suggest making it look like some had been used, thus sloped a bit to the front.
To make it easily removeable with a magnet, I embed a steel washer centered, near the surface. I gouged out a little foam and then held the washer in place with latex caulk.
Take a piece of Saran Wrap and drape it over the tender. Push the block of foam down into the tender, taking the wrap with it. (The wrap is to keep paint off the tender.)
I used a thick coat of gloss black latex paint on the foam. Sprinkled Life-Like coal onto the wet paint. Craft stores also have black sand that looks much like it.
Let it dry 24 hours or so. Gently pull it out using the wrap. It should come out fairly easily as there is no adherance of paint to tender. Make sure it is loose enough to come out with the magnet. I put a piece of cloth over the end of a retreval magnet (looks like a pen with a magnetic foot) held on by a rubber band. This lessens the impact of the magnet on the coal.
If some of your coal comes off later, it's a simple fix, dab of black paint and a little coal sprinkled on.
Sorry, haven't got the ability to post photos yet.
Good luck,
Richard
I want to add a coal load in My Empire Midland Brass 2-10-0 Decapod. I want it to look as real as possible of course. What did You use to simulate Your coal load? What did You use to affix the load in place?[ I don't want to use something that would give a glassy look to the coal] Did You make the load permanent or removable? The reason I ask is because a coal load could reduce the value of a brass model. Although I have no intention of ever selling this particular piece.
Post a photo of Your Tender with the coal load if possible.
Here is a shot of the model I want to add the coal load too..