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Modifying a Athearn gp-7

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Modifying a Athearn gp-7
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 17, 2004 8:27 AM
I am in the process of removing the dynamic brake housing on two Athearn Gp-7 loco s in order to
turn them in to a couple of Rock Island units. Can anyone, who has done this, tell me the best way
to fill up the holes left in the top of the body shells ? I started by poping off the sides of the brake housing and then drilled out the top. Then i used a needle files to remove the excess material until it was flush with the body. Do you just use styrene and spot glazing to build it back up to match the contours of the roof line or what?

thanks for the help,
fadkins
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: NW PA
  • 303 posts
Posted by areibel on Saturday, July 17, 2004 9:56 AM
Sounds like that will do it!
One thing that I've wanted to try is using CA adhesive, then you can use baking powder (or baking soda?, I'll have to check) to help fill voids. While the advesive is still wet, you sprinkle the powder onto the glue and it will save you some steps.
There are a couple Yahoo groups that are excellent sources for modifying/ scratchbuilding tips, "train tools" and "RPM forum". The RPM forum is moderated by none other than Jim Sixx, who knows a little about modeling!









Cambridge Springs- Halfway from New York to Chicago on the Erie Lackawanna!
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 17, 2004 2:08 PM
I think RAIL power Products or Details West makes the piece you are replacing with the exhaust stacks added. This piece is flat on all three sides though and you should be able to dupklicate it in styrene. The edges are rounded over to match the contour of the rest of the shell. The exhaust stacks are oblong circular. i think you replace them when the dynamic brake fan housing is removed. The forum ariebel speaks of with Jim Sixx should have any and all info you would need.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 17, 2004 3:16 PM
AFtermarket parts are an issue for this conversion, as the Athearn Body is a scale 18" too wide, otherwise I'd recomend getting the Cannon EMD Roof blank.

In this position, I'd just cut the DB's out and replace with sheet styrene, sanded to match. Then I'd add the exaust details, using DA or DW parts.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 17, 2004 8:54 PM
mykroft's solution would be best in my opinion. It was one I followed to get a BN(Former NP) Torpedo Boat GP-7

Sadly this unit is no longer with me.

James
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Monday, July 19, 2004 8:53 AM
Details West makes (made?) the non-dynamic part specifically for the too-wide Athearn cab. You should be able to get it from Walthers.

Areibel: it's baking soda that's the best to use to use as a superglue filler. But since this conversion is a plastic-to-plastic joint, using liquid plastic cement is a MUCH better option.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 19, 2004 10:53 AM
You wouldn’t have the Details West part number for the Dynamic Brake cover handy would you? I did a search at Walthers and plowed through the Details West online catalog and couldn’t find it.
Hugo
[:(]

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