A flaw with the MRC Tech 4 220?

[willy6]

Yo, Bigboy.I have a Tech 4/350. MRC said it will run a slow locomotive. After i hooked up the 350 i had the same problem until i cleaned the track. The 350 moves the loco so slow i had i had to put on my glasses and get down to make sure the wheels were moving.It's an awesome power supply.

[Anonymous]

Big Boy,
You might also consider getting an Amp meter and a volt meter and hardwire them into your circuit between the pack and the track. Since these are calibrated they can give you a better idea of how your engines are really running. These meters are available at Radio Shack or through Walthers via your local hobby store.

[Anonymous]

Like phil said"clean your loco pick up wheels. The 220 series delivers 16 VAs, enough to run four to five locos

[philnrunt]

Jonathon- If the loco starts at a crawl at 20, it probably is ok.If it bolts out of the gate like a racehorse, then the REAL fun starts.
Let us know how it does.
I've had a bunch of MRC power packs, and I would bet the trouble isn't there. They make a great product, and stand behind it.
Try cleaning the track AND the locos wheels, and let us know how it goes.

[Anonymous]

"Well couldn't you just make ten louder?"
"But it goes to eleven"

As long as the train moves your doing good.
Andrew

[Anonymous]

hello Cleveland!!

[Don Gibson]

BIG BOY:

I don't know what "20" means on the the Tech 4 - unless it's MPH?

BRASS steam typically requires 5 - 6 volts to overcome friction.
Proto 2000 diesels typically require 5 volts due to diode headlight board.
QSI included Plastic requires 9 - 10 volts to start moving, due to electronics.

I vote for 'D" - just a wild guess.

[Anonymous]

You need to see Spinal Tap. I'll paraphrase the convesation.
"Now this amp is better. Why? Well it goes to eleven. So?
Well, when everyone else is at 10 they're maxed out they can't go any further while with a eleven you can give it that extra little bit."
I've got a Tech 240 and depending on the engine I made need to set it to 40 to start motion as that engine has an Accurate Lighting module in it. As long as I get the control and appropriate speed I don't care where I need to set it.

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna go clean my track.

[BNSFNUT]

All locomotives require a certain amount of power to start moving. This varies from locomotive to locomotive
Some locomotives require that seveal volts be applied be for they will move. Older locomotives take more because they do not have our modern more efficent motors or drives in them. Also steam locos have a lot more moving parts and have more friction to over come.
With some testing you should be able to find the lowest setting that a locomotive will move at. Turn off the momentum and turn the power up slowly intill the loco starts to move. If you turn the trottle to this point with the momentum on the locomotive should start and move at the lowest speed that it can run.
To get the smothest runing keep the track clean.

[jwmurrayjr]

Item "C" would be easy to check. [:)]

[Anonymous]

Hi guys. I just got a new MRC Tech 4 220 power pack. It sure does perform! Momentum is really cool, so is the brakeing effect. But, when I turn the throttle on just a tad past the STOP position, the locomotive doesn't move. I actually have to move the throttle up to 20 before the loco starts moving. I read that the Tech 4 could move an HO switcher down the track at 1/4 of an inch a minute. So I figure:

A: My locomotives stink at slow speed operation. (I often wonder if it's because, since all my locomotives are steamers, that their low speed operation isn't as good as a diesels)

B: The Tech 4 does not put out enough power.

C: My track is dirty.

or D: The Tech 4 just doesn't perform like I thought it would.

Any ideas?[?][%-)]