Thanks for the info, Uncle Jay. See you at the DD!
It should be Microset first, and lastly Microsol (read the Microscale directions, they print them for a reason).
The Archer texture decals are printed on Microscale Thin Film decal paper, so the usual Microscale application methods apply. That includes an undercoat of paint, a clear gloss or primer, etc., they should not be applied to bare plastic.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Yes, follow all the usual Decal proceedures. Personally, I add a second brush that I use with Future, to add as a base 'adheasion enhancer' just before I place the decal. I believe (IMHO) that it helps bond & prevent whiting of decals. Although on rough flat finishes I may gloss coat & add a couple layers of Future before the application of the decal. Although I may be wrong, I always add a little 'Sol' before applying the decal to ease the base of the decal down. I'm currently adding these to an Ath SD40-2 for a model of the one in the movie Unstoppable, & I wanted to see the new(er) Ath Undec kit, & well it still needs treadplate. So, I learned that only Ath that were offered as a Genesis have treadplate decks. Luckily I have many good choices for this, & on this one it will be Archer!
Forgot to ask.........
For applying decals, will using Microset and Microsol in the usual sequence work for these decals? Or do they require distilled water?
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
They paint excellent (however, I use Floquil & Scalecoat II) I have even masked them & did not get tear out, but I sealed them with Future & very lightly applied the tape & Airbrushing, & as always, tore the tape as flat as I could, -to cut the mask line..
I have some EMD Style Diamond Plate that Archer has (#AR88043 -Which sounds like what you have), & it is great, although it is not a match to any current models casting. Ex: I 'flipped' the Ditch lights on a Kato SD40-2 & the decal was much finer than the Kato cast Plate was. It is still better than a blank panel tho..
This is a pic of that effort & is an initial paint of the model, the rest of the deck & front pilot will be painted black. Shows what can be done if one thinks about it a bit...
When they make an EMD version, I buy some.
Can you paint them easily?
Will
That day is already here! Archer has sheets of HO scale 5/8" and 7/8" rivets.
Very interesting, thanks for this demonstration and discussion. Certainly the notion of textured decals is intriguing and with many more potential examples than treadplate. Macadam streets come to mind. Perhaps the day is coming when modeled rivets will not be the size of half a baseball.
Dave Nelson
I wasn't knocking the brass treadplating, I was just trying to give an objective description of the qualities and differences (comparing a couple of models I have done with Railflyer treadplate). As I said, in brass, only EMD tread is available, from Archer, only ALCo, GE & Baldwin are available. Price is not a factor as they cost the same per engine (within a dollar). They are both great and can definitely improve on a model.
Looks good!
About 5 few years ago I wanted to purchase an HO Athearn RTR unit at my LHS in the Rio Grande scheme. It was a six axle 2nd Gen EMD (might have been a SD40-2 or a Tunnel Motor, but don't remember now). I liked it just because of its looks. But having been spoiled rotten by the detailing on P2K and Atlas locomotive shells, I was turned off that there was no tread plating on it at all so I didn't buy the locomotive.
Glad to see that now there's going to be a decal set on the market to take care of that.
I second that motion, & agree, that the application & result is great. I've used their rivets & their treadplate for a month or two now, & it is real nice. However, I still respect brass plate, but there is room for this.
Here is a custom GE that caught GE Pox, via Archer GE 'Late' Treadplate Dots. (Yes, I 'mandled' a couple off the rear & will need to fix before a final paint)...
The treadplate decals are made by http://www.archertransfers.com/ The cost is about the same as brass treadplate, and simple to apply. The decals are truely 3-dinentional. Another plus: it's the only ALCo style treadplate available.
I've used the Railflyer treadplate and I have to say, for about the same money, the Archer decal was easy to work with and looks just as good. It took me about 30 minutes to cut, apply and dry the model pictured, including the steps.
After paint:
The treadplate pictured above is called "ALCo, GE & Baldwin" treadplate. They have another one for modern GEs. EMD is in the works I'm told. I like the stuff 'cus it's easy to trim (it's a decal after all). The brass plate is good for models that it's designed for, but so far I believe there's only brass treadplate for EMD models. The Archer stuff has the same dimentionallity, but a little crisper.
I just got a sheet each of their 6" and 14" louvers, they look really sharp, I'm told 18" louvers are on the way, although the 6" and 14" could easily be cut and combined to make just about any size one might need. I have also used their rivets to replace rivets lost in sanding very successfully. The louvre and rivet sheets, while also $17, will last my lifetime.
I think the Archer resin detail decals are one of the best new additions to our modeling supply arsenal that's come along in years. I wish the military modelers hadn't kept it a secret for so long!