Hi all
A few months ago, I posted this thread asking about using tile grout in order to provide a dirt texture, a la 'zip texturing'. I've just tried it on my layout, and this is what I've got it looking like so far:
The darker dirt in the background is still drying - it will dry out to the colour of the dirt in the foreground. I used 2 parts plaster powder to 3 1/2 parts of non-sanded tile grout (this was all I could find). It was sprinkled onto the scenery shell dry, then sprayed gently with 'wet' water afterwards. That's basically it.
Cheers,
tbdanny
The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, OregonThe Year: 1948The Scale: On30The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com
that looks good.. do have an something to compare it with for size. like some tracks and cars or HO figure or structure. I have grout left over from fixing a few tiles and I want to add a beach on part of my lake.
Thanks
I used sanded grout and was super happy with the result. As is dried I used a brush to make car tracks. Gray and brown or tan could be used for fields , dirt roads and gravel areas.
NWSL's editor showed some pics a few issues back of using sanded grout for dirt/sand. He did it two ways - he mixed a batch with water and spread it over the scenery, kinda like plaster (or "ground goop") and some was sprinkled on dry and held down with scenic cement or diluted white glue or something. Both methods looked great, I'm planning on trying some on a section of scenery I'm working on now.
Eric,
Below is the same section of the layout with a HO scale Athearn Model T pickup truck:
I have been using gray sanded grout in the construction of my yard.
Ohhh, I'm liking that!
What brand and color?
Jim
Jim, I wasn't sure if you were referring to the original post or my picture. At any rate I use 2 colors. Both were bought at Home Depot. The brand is PolyBlend Sanded Grout. #156 Fawn and #09 Natural Gray. They come in 7 lbs. bags and cost $7 and change.
I use the Fawn as a basic dirt ground cover. The Natural Gray seems to be a good color and texture for gravel. They can also be mixed together. If you are interested in any more pics or info just let me know.
Mike
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Sorry for the lack of clarity.
Yes, please more pics! The sample looks amazingly realistic.
Thanks!
Here a few more. I should mention I model in H.O. and that my layout is very much a work in progress.
This pic is after the pink foam board has been painted, the track and switches installed. Ready for some ground cover.
Here the Fawn color grout has been spread around, but it still needs to be smoothed out.
Things have been evened out and some gray has been put down. I should mention that I glue the grout with a 1:3 mix of wet water and white glue. When this dries, it becomes very hard so make sure things look like you want them to. After the glue dries, this mixture turns the grout darker. The Fawn changes from a sand color to light brown, which I prefer.
An open area in my yard.
These next photos are some close-ups. If you decide to try this, what I would suggest is use some scrap board and track to practice on. If you have any more questions I would be happy to answer them as best as I can.
The texture is spot-on! However, it looks like the grout has re-colored the track. Is it possible to avoid that? In HO it might not be as difficult to go pack and paint the individual ties, but for us N scalers that would be a tall order.
I also suspect that the tile grout does an excellent job of securing the track in place such that you could get away with removing any track nails.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
You might be right about holding track in place. Grout is cement with colorant and a few other things added. So when it dries you have a thin layer of cement. My track is fastened down with a little bit of super glue so I really can't say what the track holding properties of grout would be. A test would be in order.
After everything dries the rail is cleaned up exactly like you would when applying regular ballast.
I use Peco code 83 rail. The ties are a shiny dark brown color. They looked like brand new ties to me, and since I am going for an old beat up yard look , this was not going to work.
Depending upon how much grout is applied, I get the look I want without painting the ties. I can also apply a little regular ballast as I see fit. If too much grout is applied, you can scrape it off the tops of the ties with your finger nail or an x-acto knife. This is easier before it dries completely, but even after it dries it will scrape off. If you have painted the ties, the paint will probably come off with the excess grout. The grout can also be painted.
To avoid the grout coloring the ties you would have to clean off each tie. This seems like a tall order to me. I think it would be best to use it only for track that has been poorly maintained.
Bottom line. If you want a well groomed mainline for a Class 1 railroad, this is not the way to go. However, if you want an end of the line yard for a Class 3 railroad, it might do the trick.
Hope this helped. Mike.
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I presume you put the grout down first, then spray it with the wetted diluted glue... correct?
Jim. The short answer is yes. I place the grout where I want it, then spray it with wet water only, no glue. After this has dried the grout will stay in place, up to a point. Remember it is cement. Any lumps and bumps can be smoothed out with the tip of your finger or a piece of fine sand paper . When things look o.k., I spray some more wet water, then apply the dilute glue.
If at this point if I see something that's not quite right, I leave it until the glue has dried then fix it.
The other option is to make the fix while the glue is still wet. The risk here is disturbing other areas making more work.
It bares repeating that you should try these techniques with scrap materials first before using them on the real thing. Every time I have ignored this advice whether model building or making home repairs, I have regretted it.
Mike.