The plastic factory passenger car windows just won’t do when it comes to detailing my interiors. The Rivarossi system and Walthers windows have got to go. After doing several, I can remove and replace both sides of a sleeper in about 4 hours now, once the windows are open. It does require some practice.
I think we can do this without pics.
The Walthers cars should be taken completely apart by removing the top, bottom, both end pieces, both sides and taking the interior piece out. There’s a lot of how-to info on the web for doing this. I posted a method (I think it was to Motley) here some time ago, so I’m not going to repeat it. I even remove some of the loosely glued partitions so I can mask and spray easier.
I use the polycarbonate sheets from Clover House. The sheets have a protective film on both sides that’s really great while handling the plastic. I don’t remove the film till I’m ready to install the panes.
Cut a piece of the poly slightly larger than the window opening. Do not remove film.
Make a strip of blue painters tape a little larger than the poly piece.
Attach the piece of poly, with its film to the sticky side of the strip of tape, and tape it securely over the window opening.
I carefully scribe, on the poly film, the outline of the window opening. I use a fresh #11 on every car side that I do. I don’t worry about the rounded corners; just the 4 straight edges.
Remove the tape and poly piece together. The tape will come off and might pull the protective film with it. I start peeling one corner a little, and reach underneath and gently pry up the poly on a corner with the tip of my #11 blade to keep the poly, film and the tape together.
I cut out the pane with scissors. This is the second purpose of the blue tape. It makes it easy to see the scribe lines on the poly while cutting. I then very, very slightly nip the 4 corners at a 45 degree angle – just about .015 inches.
With the blue tape, film and poly still together, I fit the pane to the window by sanding along 2 edges. I don't sand perpendicular to the edge. I use about 320 grit. I test fit by sliding the pane through the window opening at 90 degrees in both dimensions. Sand until pane firmly moves through window opening without bending of the pane, but the pane will hold its position in the opening. It’s sort of a press fit. I also round the corners a little at this point.
When I think I have a good fit, I remove the tape and film from the pane, brush/clean off sanding dust and plastic hairs. I wash my hands before and several times during the process to minimize imperfections. I then test fit the pane in the window opening, and make any slight adjustments to the edges and corners by sanding a little more.
Once the pane is securely in the window opening, I apply tiny drops of Testors clear parts cement in the corners with the tip of a #11.
I hope that helps. If anyone has some ideas on how to speed up this process, please share with us.
DC
http://uphonation.com
These guys make laser cut windows for some of the Rivarossi/IHC cars: http://laserkit.com/laserkit.htm
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
modelmaker51 These guys make laser cut windows for some of the Rivarossi/IHC cars: http://laserkit.com/laserkit.htm
For some of the Walthers cars as well.
Robert Beaty
The Laughing Hippie
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The CF-7...a waste of a perfectly good F-unit!
Then it comes to be that the soothing light at the
end of your tunnel, Was just a freight train coming
your way. -Metallica, No Leaf Clover
DC,
Always good to see your threads and post, but forgive this "cornball" question. What is it about the stock Walthers passenger car windows that you find lacking?
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Arjay1969 modelmaker51: These guys make laser cut windows for some of the Rivarossi/IHC cars: http://laserkit.com/laserkit.htm For some of the Walthers cars as well.
modelmaker51: These guys make laser cut windows for some of the Rivarossi/IHC cars: http://laserkit.com/laserkit.htm
Thanks, Jay and Robert, for posting that additional info. I have never ordered those, cause I don't know how clear or scratch resistant they are. I know that styrene is difficult to handle and not as clear and scratch resistant as polycarbonate. Also, I enjoy doing them myself. Do they come with protective film? Won't 2 kits be required if you want some shades also?
Antonio: They look good from the outside, but since my passion in this hobby is modeling interiors (soon to be layout building, too, hopefully) all that plastic on the inside is not desirable. Like a little kid, I love peeking around through the windows.
I got this email notification about a post from Flashwave. I don't know why it doesn't show here. Maybe because it was posted at 1:30 AM and the Mod is a sleep? Just joking. Anyway I wanted to pass on the valid info. Thanks, Flashwave.
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By Flashwave in General Discussion (Model Railroader)
I don't see anything wrong witht he windows I have, but I have had need to replace or add windowglass to models without them. Something else to consider, is normal Projector Transparency film. It does collect fingerprints somewhat, but what it does NOT do is cloud up wwhen in contact with plastic weld. (Unless you bathe it in the stuff, bt normal applications, no). And a box of it will last ypu for freekin ever.
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dcfixer Thanks, Jay and Robert, for posting that additional info. I have never ordered those, cause I don't know how clear or scratch resistant they are. I know that styrene is difficult to handle and not as clear and scratch resistant as polycarbonate. Also, I enjoy doing them myself. Do they come with protective film? Won't 2 kits be required if you want some shades also? Antonio: They look good from the outside, but since my passion in this hobby is modeling interiors (soon to be layout building, too, hopefully) all that plastic on the inside is not desirable. Like a little kid, I love peeking around through the windows. DC
I've used LaserKit windows in all sorts of situations for many years now. They're not styrene. According to the web site, they are laser cut from clear acrylic sheets. They are clear enough for you to easily see any details that you have inside your passenger car/locomotive/etc. with no difficulties whatsoever. Oh, and since they're laser cut, they press-fit into the window openings with nothing sticking out on the inside of the car. If you want shades, you simply glue them in place inside the car...easy as can be! One other option for shades would be to simply leave the protective sheet intact on the inside of the car (the windows come with adhesive-backed paper on both sides of the "glass" for protection.
I can understand the desire to make them yourself, but for the cars that they do make the kits for, it's a lot easier. I highly recommend the AMB windows.
What thickness of Polycarbonate do you get from Clover House?
I have to replace the way too tinted windows on a pair of Proto 1000 RDCs and unfortunately AMB does not and has no plans (I emailed them) to issue a window set for them.
Not sure if your procedure will work for my RDCs though since, unlike Walthers passenger cars, are a solid shell and not made up of separate wall pieces.
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
Thanks, Robert for the description. Now that I have a trusted testimony, I will definitely save myself some time, if and when the need arises again. I can also cut out a few flush fitting shades from the Poly. I like my shades with different color sides, like the proto. They have them for the Riv dome coach, I think. Will those work on the old Riv tooling and their last tooling?
Matt: 0.010 inches.
dcfixer Thanks, Robert for the description. Now that I have a trusted testimony, I will definitely save myself some time, if and when the need arises again. I can also cut out a few flush fitting shades from the Poly. I like my shades with different color sides, like the proto. They have them for the Riv dome coach, I think. Will those work on the old Riv tooling and their last tooling? Matt: 0.010 inches. DC
I'm not sure on the Rivarossi cars...I retired all of mine some time back, before they came out with the windows for them! I have used the ones for Walthers, though...and they make a big difference in the appearance of the car, especially the interior.
dcfixer Antonio: They look good from the outside, but since my passion in this hobby is modeling interiors (soon to be layout building, too, hopefully) all that plastic on the inside is not desirable. Like a little kid, I love peeking around through the windows. DC
Would be great if they could make the windows for the P1K RDCs since Walthers no longer has parts for them in stock, including windows. Walthers! Sometimes ya like em! Other times you want to yell at them!
dcfixer The plastic factory passenger car windows just won’t do when it comes to detailing my interiors. The Rivarossi system and Walthers windows have got to go. After doing several, I can remove and replace both sides of a sleeper in about 4 hours now, once the windows are open. It does require some practice. I think we can do this without pics.
No problem, Antonio. Next week I'll dig out a junk Walthers side, and take some photos.
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone.
Thanks very much, DC
Hope this helps.
cut piece of Clover House polycarbonate slightly bigger than window
piece on sticky side of tape
tape piece over window
scribe outline of window
scribed piece
cut piece
fit it by sanding edges
...both dimensions
snug/press fit with no bending
I'm very grateful to you for posting these photos and the details. Thank you! Now I have a solution for my RDC as well as some other cars that need glazing.
I went to Walthers website, did a search and could not find anything for "Clover House". Does Walthers carry their products? If not, is this something I need to order online or by mail?
http://cloverhouse.com
Thank you DC,
I downloaded and read through the catalog. Since the company is for sale, I'll likely order soon.
The $20 minimum order is a bit of a bugger, but if I can't get this material elsewhere I'm willing to go for it since I do need the glass and this company is for sale.
Thanks again for all your help.
No problem, Antonio.
The company has been for sale for a long time. I ordered a lot of the poly sheet, cause I'm going to need it for structures on my new layout.