Thanks for your advice being unjust to American couplings I assumed that kadee #5's would solve my problems, i now realise that this is the case in about 75% of situations,thanks to your guidance, guidance I have gone onto Kadees website and downloaded their information sheets. I now have no excuses , thanks again
Not sure I would have phrased it that way. I would have said something like " I will use #5 Kadee couplers in all the rolling stock that will accept a #5. I know that most freight cars want a #5, but some locomotives and a lot of passenger cars want something else. I will check the Kadee what-fits-what list and order the Kadee recommended coupler for the cars or engines that call out something besides a #5."
The "whisker" couplers fill the place of a #5 Kadee. The centering springs are integral with the coupler, rather than the separate stamped bronze centering spring supplied with the #5 Kadee. The whisker couplers ought to be a bit easier to install than the #5, but once installed, they work the same way as a #5. I haven't used whisker couplers myself (yet) but people tell me they work just fine.
It is possible to fit a #5 Kadee into anything with enough shimming, filing and hacking. However you will save a lot of work and get a neater installation using the Kadee coupler recommended in the factory what-fits-what list.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Thanks for all your help I think I will now settle on Kadee No5's but what are these "whisker" couplings?
I would also highly recommend you get a KD coupler height guage, it is almost essential for standardization and consistency. You can also make your own guage using a block of wood or sometime, the correct height measurements are in the instruction sheet that comes with the couplers.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Most of my rolling stock came with what I call Kadee knockoffs. Most of them use a plastic "whisker" to keep the knuckle closed, instead of the metal coil spring like Kadee uses. Yesterday, I replaced all of those with Kadee #148s. I use Kadee delayed action uncouplers (yeah, I know, they don't look prototypical) and I've noticed that the uncoupling "hoses" don't pull the coupler to the side like Kadees do. I wonder if the knockoffs "hoses" are made of cheaper metal that has less steel in them. Once I replaced them, the uncoupling works like a champ, so I'll be ordering more of the 148 "Whisker" couplers. I've used some of their long shank couplers for passenger cars with diaphragms, as has been suggested. For me, there's nothing like the original; nothing but Kadees for me. Whether or not you choose to use Kadees, get yourself one of their coupler height gauges; they'll save you a lot of headaches.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
By all means change the couplers to body mounts. It will greatly improve your train operations, especially when pushing cars rather than pulling them.. If you purchase standard packs of Kadee #5's they come with coupler boxes as well as the springs necessary for keeping the couplers centered.
However, body mounting them comes with some challenges, most of which can be easily overcome with come care. First, it is very important for the coupler box to be centered on the underside of the car body endand that it be straight--that is on and in line with the longitudinal center line of the car. Finally it is also important (see, lots of "importants") for the height of the coupler heads to line up with all of the other coupler heads on all of your rolling stock. If simply attaching the coupler box to the car underside results in the coupler being too high this is usually solved with a shim of some type. Shims matching the outline of the coupler boxes are available but small pieces of sheet styrene of appropriate thickness work, too. If the couple head is too low, you may be able to use one or two of the Kadee washers (two thicknesses available) on the truck screw between the truck and the car body to raise the car body slightly.
Good luck!
Thanks for all your help. I can safely assume that Kadee #5 are the,almost universal standard. I have several items that I have bought online and they are truck mounted couplers can I change them to body mount and are Kadee#' mounts the best way of going.
If you go to the Kadee web site that may help you. Part of the reason there are so many types is because of the many different manufacturer's. Then there are coupler height. Different manufactures tolerances are not all the same. So Kadee make couplers with the knuckle in the center of the shank, above and below the shank. They all so make couplers with shorter shanks so engines are closer together (more prototypical) then HO train norm, and longer shanks that help bigger cars and engines stay coupled around smaller turns.
There are other reason's, mounting points, smaller more realistic couplers and I could go on. A safe starting point is the Kadee number 5. Will fit the need's of about 70% of the current cars on the market.
Hope I was of some help.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Cambus,
There are two pdf files here http://www.kadee.com/conv/convpl.htm that cover most models. Most of the differences are for different models/situations. For example, in the US cars that carry hazardous materials have to have shelf-style couplers to prevent couplers from puncturing the ends of cars in case of derailment.
FYI, standard #5 work in most situations, though I have recently become hooked on the "whisker" couplers. I think the standard one is #148.
Sean
HO Scale CSX Modeler
There is a chart that will tell you what KADEE coupler will replace what other manufacturer's coupler to standardize all your Kadees on your equipment.
Right now, unfortunately I cannot find my bookmark for it.
But here is the link to the KaDee site you may find it there if you search hard enough:
Kadee® Quality Products Co. - The Coupler People® - HOn3, HO, S, On3, O, #1, G
Hope this helps somewhat.
EDIT: FOUNDTHE CONVERSION CHART!:
http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
For most applications, the standard is the #5. A good newer alternative are the #148 and #158 "whisker" couplers which have wire filament centering springs instead of relying on a copper spring box.
In some cases it makes sense to use an under-shank or an over-shank coupler, as Kadee labels them, so that the knuckle can meet its counterpart at very close to the same height. However, there are thin plastic shims that you can buy from them to adjust height marginally, and even to make the shank more level...to keep it from sagging and dropping the knuckle out of effective reach. Of course, many of us make our own spacers/shims out of thin plastic...it is easy enough to do.
Generally, you will probably get more use out of longer shank couplers between the finer passenger cars with diaphragms between them. But between tank cars, box cars, and such, items less than about 70 scale feet in length (about 21 meters), the old standard #5 ought to work well.
Others should answer soon and provide you with their own experience and suggestions.
Crandell
I am new to american modeling, but I am aware that Kadee's are the American standard , but having looked on the internet there are several types,shapes and sizes. I am looking for help to find the best for me, as I have purchased several items from the US , the coupling type defeats me, Can you help!