Weathering Chalk Sprayed w/DullCote

[wjstix]

I usually give cars, buildings, engines etc. an overall 'patina' of weathering with powdered charcoal. Unlike chalks and powders, you can spray it with flat finish and it doesn't go away. Then I'll sometimes add a little touch of weathering here and there with AIM products, but don't seal them in. Unless a model is going to be handled a lot it's really not a problem.

[Kyle_Y]

I'm new to weathering, and have experienced your same problem. I go a little heavy on my weathering powders to get the look after I clear coat them. I'm currently on TDY, or I'd tell you what Krylon rattle can I switched too that gives me ALLSTAR results for clear coating. I've also found that the powders tend to grab onto the car a lot better if it's either clear coated or dulled with a wash of paint first. I learned most of my techniques from "Done in a Day". Might check it out.

[R. T. POTEET]

I experienced this same problem but it's been a long, long, long time since I used Dullcote spray. I fabricated a very simple spray booth by gluing 1/8 inch plywood to the inside  of a long--and I do mean "long"--cardboard box. I was spraying at a distance of 18-20 inches I would guess and I aimed the can slightly upward so that I got a slight bounce off of the top of this booth. It goterdun!

It did take a lot of Dullcote but then the stuff wasn't too much more than a buck--$1.19 comes readily to mind--in them thar distant days of yesteryear.

[dstarr]

DullCote marries with powdered chalk and turns it invisible.  Best bet on structures, leave off the DullCote.  The chalks adhere well and structures don't get handled much.  The chalk weathering will look good for years without a top coat of DullCote.

    Rolling stock is another story, it does get handled, and handling will rub the chalk off.  Not sure how fast, I don't use chalks on rolling stock.  Worst case, you will have to reweather the car sooner or later, which ain't the end of the world.   

[cudaken]

Cedar, try spraying on the dull coat and let it set for 30 seconds or so. Then apply the chalk, but you want the dull coat to set up a little or you will get brush marks.

 Some of my cars I did not use Dull Coat and the chalk has stayed on for a few years with no problem.

                  Cuda Ken

[dknelson]

My experience is that it takes some repeated applications of chalks/powders and DullCoat or other fixitives to get the desired effect.  The other aspect is that once you get the hang of it, you learn how much to "overdo" the chalk/powder treatment so that the end result is more like what you intend. 

While at an art supply store I found a significant number of choices for fixitives, used by artists to draw in pencil or charcoal.  I bought a few and intend to try a "compare/contrast" project.  But they are not cheap by any means .... and art supply stores don't give NMRA discounts  

Dave Nelson

[Colorado_Mac]

I agree with rrebell - the AIM powders hold up much better to a dullcoat misting than the artists chalks I was using.

[rrebell]

Chalk is just not fine enough to really grab and it will dissolve in solvent, use weathering pigments most of which are made of materials that don't dissolve.

[ChadLRyan]

Any clear coat over a powder or a dusting with an airbrush will tone down tremendously. Since I know I will seal the finish with a clear (Dullcoat, Future, etc.) I weather very heavy, it almost looks childish & goofy, but I know I will loose 30-50% on the sealing finish. I only do that because if I don't, it looks like CSI was there & I have 15 scale foot finger prints all over the model, as I'm blessed with that gene that allows my fingers to dissolve any finish & rust any metal.. Yippeee!  Geez...

Rust, DK brown, & black don't wash out as much as light colors, as dust, white, yellow, & other brights almost disappear. I would recommend practicing, & busting out all your shades/colors & try them on a test piece to see the tone change with your preferred sealer.

In my case it was the grain train cars, that are now called 'light weathering' hah hah...  

[gandydancer19]

cedarwoodron

I saw the current discussion in this forum about DullCote, but have a different question:

As a novice weathering (structures so far) modeler, I recently brushed some medium gray chalk powder on a grimy black painted surface, to give a dusty effect. It looked great until I sprayed DullCote (white can-2010 purchase) on it from a distance of 12 inches. The DullCote wetted the powder and, when dry, resulted in most of the weathering effect being removed.

Advice is humbly requested and will be gratefully received!

Cedarwoodron

I find this to be a benefit to the process.  If I happen to do a heavy weathering job, I know that it will be toned down once the model is sprayed.  I also know that if I want it to show really well, I have to apply it on heavy.

[CSXDixieLine]

If I am using weathering powders on a surface that is already flat (paint or DullCote), I have found that I do not need to recoat the model. The powders stay on just fine. Of course, I have only weatherd roads and structures so far, no rolling stock or locos that are handled regularly. Jamie

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I had the same problem with Valspar Clear Flat. The solution for me to spray from a distance and allow the Clear Flat to contact the model as a mist. There was still some vanishing chalk but nowhere near as much as before. You'll have to work out the distance for yourself as it can be affected by humidity and wind direction/speed.

[cedarwoodron]

I saw the current discussion in this forum about DullCote, but have a different question:

As a novice weathering (structures so far) modeler, I recently brushed some medium gray chalk powder on a grimy black painted surface, to give a dusty effect. It looked great until I sprayed DullCote (white can-2010 purchase) on it from a distance of 12 inches. The DullCote wetted the powder and, when dry, resulted in most of the weathering effect being removed.

Advice is humbly requested and will be gratefully received!

Cedarwoodron