The following are a number of small improvements I have developed, in some cases with the help of others, for many of the current and recent Bachmann HO locomotives, mostly those in their Spectrum line.
After mentioning some of these items in another post, John requested I elaberate. Much of this info I have posted before, either here or on the Bachmann board, but for those who missed those - here goes:
But first a disclaimer - I run DC, using Aristo Craft Train Engineer wireless throttles. Some of my performance related changes are directly related to the use these throttles or in some cases, you may see an improvement with any DC throttle, but maybe not to the same degree as the Train Engineer which has a pulse width modulated output.
Tip #1 - remove the motor circuit RF suppression capacitors. They are generally located on the circuit board often right near were the motor leads are attached. Sometimes they are disc type, on most newer models they are PC board type. Removing them will lower the starting speed and lower the slowest operational speed. It will also correct problems with some brands of aftermarket decoders.
This mod is especially effective on the 2-8-0, but does improve EVERY loco, and I have now removed ALL such capacitors.
I do this to all brands of products that have such RF filters in place. In addition to Bachmann, I have found them on some Intermountain and Proto2000 DC versions.
Tip #2 - add weight to the tenders - if you run long trains or do lots of backing, or back whole trains into staging, this will vertually eliminate tender derailments while backing. Additionally it greatly improves electrical pickup and is one key step in eliminating problems with the tender to loco wires.
Some other brands also need weight, but this is mainly a Bachmann issue. I add about 2 oz to most all Bachmann tenders. It seems to have no negative effect on pulling power as it is less than the weight of one freight car.
Tip #3 - OK, now we get loco specific - Spectrum USRA Heavy 4-8-2 - I modify the drawbar by bending a "dip" into it as close to the loco end as possible - about 1/8" in length and depth. This provides better clearance for the wires, which plug in directly above the drawbar on this model, and shortens the drawbar slightly, which improves the locos appearance. I run all my locos close coupled as I have large curves, but this mod does not seem to effect the use of either position or decrease useable minimum radius.
Tip #4 - replacing Bachmann couplers with Kadee couplers - generally the coupler pockets are too shallow to allow Kadee's to drop in. To solve this I gently file down the shank of Kadee #148's until they fit - I never use generic couplers on anything.
Tip #5 - the previously Spectrum, now regular line 2-8-0 - I add a small amount of additional weight in the domes. Not sure it really helps much, but I feel better about it. I also remove the metal spring from the pilot truck. This does seem to show a measurable increase in pulling power, if only by a few cars.
Tip #6 - the new regular line 2-8-4 - it is very easy to add about 5 oz of weight to these and greatly improve their pulling power - I will try to get a picture up showing the boiler off and the weight added. Mine will pull 35 cars on level track after the added weight.
Tip #7 - tender swaps - the following is a copy of a post from some years ago on the Bachmann board regarding tender swaps. It contains most everything you need to know about Spectrum tender swaps and how to do them without major rewiring or moving/replacing circuit boards:
Tender Swap – Bachmann medium Vanderbilt oil tender (Item #89905) with 63” driver 10 wheeler (Item #82307)
Initial test using jumpers provided with the tender – dead short, no operation.
Original plan – move 10 wheeler circuit board into new tender. This proved unworkable for several reasons, 10 wheeler circuit board too large and wires too short to fit into Vanderbilt tender without major modifications to both the tender and the circuit board.
New plan – can existing circuit board from Vanderbilt tender be rewired to work with 10 wheeler. A simple examination of both circuit boards revealed that while different, they both have the same basic connections, so the problem must lie in pin assignments in the connectors.
Tracing wires and a few simple checks revealed that the two wire connector simply brings the loco pickups to the circuit board. Reversing the wires on one end of the two wire jumper corrected this. Now the loco runs but in the wrong direction.
Two of the wires on the four wire plug are the motor leads. Reversing them gave us correct operational direction.
This only left the front headlight. The circuit board in the Vanderbilt tender is for the 2-8-0 which has 12 volt lamps for lighting. The 10 wheeler uses LED’s, this is the main reason the circuit board is different. Rather than trying to modify the circuit, I simply replaced the loco headlight LED with a 12 volt lamp.
Additionally I added weight to the Vanderbilt tender bringing it weight to about 5 oz. and replaced all couplers with genuine Kadee #148 on both the loco front and tender.
Result – loco now converted, runs well with original 10 wheeler draw bar and looks great.
This issue seems to be tied to what tender cam with what loco in the first place. I do not have all of the Bachmann spectrum locos, but from what I have seen, read and experienced, the following may be a good beginning of a compatibility chart:
Light Mountain & Consolidation will work with all of the "medium" tenders.
Heavy Mountain and 2-6-6-2 will work with the long coal tender, hicken tender and long vandy tender
Russian shares same tender with some 10 wheelers, so I am guessing they share the same circuit board.
The 10 wheeler is really a wild card here because it comes with three different tenders, depending on roadname. Some have the low, small "pre 1900" looking tender, some have the small tender from the Russian and one has the same tender as the consolidation, but obviously with a different circuit board.
But again, I think most of these differences are just the pin assignments and the type of headlight.
If anyone has other Bachmann tender swap questions, I can likely help, just ask. I have used Spectrum tenders behind a number of other brands of locos with good results as well.
This is quite long now, so I will leave it at this. Feel free to offer your thoughts or ask questions.
Sheldon
>>Bachmann Locomotive tips - as requested by J Whitten
Thank you *very* much, I appreciate your tips! I have a fair number of Bachmann locos. So far I haven't had any trouble with the 2-8-0's backing up, but I am starting to have some issues with tender pickups and electrical drop-outs.
John
Good information, Sheldon - thanks.
A couple of my first 2-8-0s were wired differently due to the tender trucks being reversed, with the result that the tenders were not interchangeable. I discovered this after shortening the tenders, then picking one at random to couple behind a loco for a test run. Once I realised the cause of the problem, each tender was identified with a number matching that of its loco. Eventually, I completely removed the circuit boards from the tenders and did away with Bachmann's plug system, replacing it with a pair of wires between the loco and tender. I also run DC and had already removed the lights from the loco in favour of some added weight. I model open coal bunkers on all tenders and use loose "coal", but removal of the circuit board allows more room for additional weight within the body shell. With a fairly full bunker of coal, this gives a weight of just over 6oz. for the 28' long tender. This improves tracking and current collection, although, for test purposes, these locos run just fine without their tenders, too.
Wayne
Hi Sheldon
Thanks. Good tips. I copied the article to an Open Office document and created a three page PDF which can easily be read by Adobe Acrobat Reader which I believe most have in their PC's.
If you ever get time, you might consider adding photos as this will be a great help to the model railroad community. A picture is worth at least a thousand words.
The nice thing about PDF's is the document can be expanded and details in photos will show up better than just looking at a jpg.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg1998 Hi Sheldon Thanks. Good tips. I copied the article to an Open Office document and created a three page PDF which can easily be read by Adobe Acrobat Reader which I believe most have in their PC's. If you ever get time, you might consider adding photos as this will be a great help to the model railroad community. A picture is worth at least a thousand words. The nice thing about PDF's is the document can be expanded and details in photos will show up better than just looking at a jpg. Rich
Rich, When I get a few minutes I will take some photos and post them. My understanding of PDF files is that you need a subscription version from Adobe to create them, which I don't have.
I don't work in a big office and have no practical use for that stuff, and a computer is not a major part of what I do for a living. So even taking, uploading and posting pictures is a time consuming thing for me.
Spending a few minutes on this forum, doing a little research now and then, using word processing and Quick Books is about the limit of my computer use.
But, I will post some photos in a day or two.
I have been using Open Office for about six years which is a free version of Microsoft Office and has the capability to convert to PDF.
There is a Windows version also. I recently downloaded and installed Open Office for my girlfriend who wanted a good word processor application. It is very easy to download and install.
Think, Open Source software like Firefox web browser. The link is below.
http://www.openoffice.org/
No good reason why everyone cannot have this application.
There are several free programs that can produce PDFs. I use one called CutePDf that installs as a printer. Any application that can print can then make a PDF. Just print to this 'printer' and it will prompt you for a filename. Simple.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Here is a little info on the Spectrum HO USRA Medium Tender. I think this one comes with the Spectrum 2-8-0 which has had a 12 volt light bulb in the beginning.
The two jumpers reverse each pair so the tender was re-wired, caps removed, 1k resistor for the LED and the copper trace cut to isolate pin 7 which can be now used for a tender light if I so choose. With the caps out, the inductors are not an issue.
The jumpers are needed when used with the small driver 4-6-0. I might just completely re-wire the tender in the future so the jumpers are not needed.
OK, It took me a while, and the pictures are not great, but here are some pictures of the extra weight added to the Bachmann 2-8-4:
The extra tender weight is typical of what I do to all Bachmann tenders. And in addition to what is shown, I added another 1/2 oz stick on weight to the inside of the backhead and filled the sand box and steam dome with lead pellets and epoxyed them in place.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL OK, It took me a while, and the pictures are not great, but here are some pictures of the extra weight added to the Bachmann 2-8-4: The extra tender weight is typical of what I do to all Bachmann tenders. And in addition to what is shown, I added another 1/2 oz stick on weight to the inside of the backhead and filled the sand box and steam dome with lead pellets and epoxyed them in place. Sheldon
Very cool, thanks!
Thanks for the "info" here Sheldon!!! Seems as though there are always little "quirks" to everything and it's a heck of a lot easier to "go in" knowing what those "quirks" are than having to find them out for one's self everytime.
Tips such as what you have related here have saved me countless hours and much frustration over the years not only in my model railroading but also in my other hobbies such as working on the old clocks or even doing something as ordinary as working on my car/truck.
Info like this is truly "priceless" as it saves a person a lot of grief over the years.
Thanks again for taking the time to share these...........
Mark
Mark and John, Thank you for the kind words and you are most welcome.
In the picture below, if you look close, you can see the modification to the drawbar to improve clearance for the wires.
For me, these Bachmann locos are such a good value and so easily improved.
Bumped regarding recent Bachmann loco problem thread.
Additionally, anyone doing Bachmann tender swaps I have lots of data on Bachmann loco and tender wiring/pin assignments if you need it. Send a PM.
Thank you for the information..very timely for me. Take care...John
Moved up again in response to a related thread.
Definately a lot of good and helpful information here. I have a Bachmann Spectrum 4-6-0 and the wiring connecting the engine with the tender drags really badly and will not allow to loco to sit squarely on the track let alone go through a turnout. Any suggestions?
BobL609 Definately a lot of good and helpful information here. I have a Bachmann Spectrum 4-6-0 and the wiring connecting the engine with the tender drags really badly and will not allow to loco to sit squarely on the track let alone go through a turnout. Any suggestions?
Take the top off the tender, add about 2-3 oz of weight, relocate the wires to the loco so that more of the wire in the tender. Carefully position the wires after pluging them into the loco to help avoid conflict with the drawbar.
The extra weight will improve electrical pickup from the tender and help keep the wires from interfering with the free motion of the tender.
I thank you Sir.
BobL609 I thank you Sir.
BobL609, you are most welcome, and you need not call me Sir - we are all friends here - even when we disagree.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Mark and John, Thank you for the kind words and you are most welcome. In the picture below, if you look close, you can see the modification to the drawbar to improve clearance for the wires. For me, these Bachmann locos are such a good value and so easily improved. Sheldon
MY GAWD MAN! That is a BEAUTIFUL tender scheme there! Simple, but elegant!
-Morgan
Flashwave, Thank you for the kind words.
It is actually done by applying the red stripe decal first, then applying the white name and herald over the stripe.
Did them as seperate decals so I could do a number of different variations. All the decals are made by Rail Graphics.
Sheldon:
Thanks for the tips I'm going to try them when I get home for my 0-6-0 slopeback tender when I get home.
Joe Staten Island West
Joe323
Are you talking about the Bachmann HO 0-6-0 switcher
The 0-6-0 slopeback by Bachmann does not come with wiring in the tender. Hence there are no wires between the engine and tender.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/50601.pdf
Perhaps you have an old Mantua or DCC, they had pickups in the tender.
I had problems with my USRA Light Mountain stopping intermittently and traced the problem to a poor connection within (not between) one of the plugs. While I had the loco "in the shop", I decided to completely re-wire it. I removed the circuit board completely (I run DC and don't care for working lights) and replaced the plug system with a pair of wires connected by miniature plugs from an electronic supply warehouse. I also re-wired the loco so that it can be run without having the tender attached - a useful feature for maintenance and, on new locos, for painting.
Here's the plug set-up, shown on an Athearn 2-8-2, to which I added tender pick-up using Bachmann trucks and wipers:
...and here's the Light Mountain (known on my road as a Mohawk) that instigated the re-wiring programme:
All of my Bachmann 2-8-0s got the same treatment and, as mentioned previously, extra weight in their shortened tenders:
...as will the currently under-construction Bachmann 10 Wheelers:
don7 Joe323 Are you talking about the Bachmann HO 0-6-0 switcher The 0-6-0 slopeback by Bachmann does not come with wiring in the tender. Hence there are no wires between the engine and tender. http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/50601.pdf Perhaps you have an old Mantua or DCC, they had pickups in the tender.
Yes I was talking about the 0-6-0 Switcher which is a special purpose only steamer on my RR (Not a daily driver) I tried to add weight to the tender but theres almost no room. Any suggestions?
I've posted this elsewhere, with little response, but thought that aficionados of Bachmann locos might enjoy this short video. Click on the image to get things rolling.
There's not much in the way of sound, beyond the usual noise of a moving train, as this is DC operation.
Wayne, I did see it on the other thread, great video!
I know I will sound like a conspiracy nut, but you know bringing too much attention to this will upset the politcally correct notions of what can be done with DC control.
IF I had a video camera, I would make one with two or three different wheel arrangments and/or brands pulling a long train - with DC control.
Thanks for your kind words, Sheldon. I find that most of my locos will run well with the other ones, regardless of make or wheel arrangement, and I'm glad they do, as my layout is mostly grades and curves, often in the same places.
DC is perfect for my operating requirements, with only one train moving at any time (but with as many locos as are needed to get it over the line) A "day" of operation can last through many operating sessions.
as will the currently under-construction Bachmann 10 Wheelers:
That looks suspiciously like an old Varney Casey Jones boiler. You've done a nice job mating it to the Bachmann chassis.
Andre
Thanks, Andre. You've got a good eye, as that is indeed an old Varney "Casey Jones" boiler. The cab is from a Bachmann 2-8-0, although I haven't decided whether to use it or a USRA-type from the Bachmann 2-6-6-2. I have two of those 10-Wheelers "in-progress", although there's not a lot of progress happening at the moment. I'm spending as much time on the tenders as the locos: they were, in my opinion, too wide for this loco, so I slit them in two using a handsaw, removing about .060". That, of course, necessitated new floors, which are currently under construction.