Time to add some rural, paved roads to my layout. I've seen techniques involving sheet styrene, joint compound covered scuptamold, and peel-and-stick asphalt.
What is your technique?
John
I've used both drywall mud and Durabond patching plaster for paved country roads. I think this is one of the drywall mud versions:
Here's the same crossing as seen from the air:
This one was done with Durabond 90:
...and from above:
The drywall mud is easier to sand, but is soft and easily damaged. The Durabond stands up much better, but you need to finish it properly before it sets.
Wayne
Beautiful work Wayne!!
I use plaster paris for my roads. I was using the woodland scenic stuff, but the paris is about the same thing.
[View:http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/themes/trc/utility/:550:0]
"Rust, whats not to love?"
I am probably the only guy that does this, but I use 1/4" foam board from Hobby Lobby. One of the colors is a very realistic gray. I cut the board into 4" wide strips and glue it down with Scenic Glue. Then, I apply yellow and white automotive stripe tape to mark the center lines and shoulders. Lastly, I taper Woodland Scenics Fine ballast along the edges to form the shouders. Looks great and it is quick and easly to install. It is also the height of Woodland Scenics Foam Track Bed which I use as a base for my tracks.
Rich
Alton Junction
Like Doc, I use drywall compound to created my surfaced roads and streets.
CNJ831
I just paint roads directly onto the plywood base. First I use a thin layer of plaster to smooth the surface, then I just paint in one of two ways. The first pic (city area) I airbrushed the grey base and handpainted the cracks. It gives a smooth surface. In the second pic (container area) I sprayed textured paint (I think it's called "stone effects") from a can, and weathered it after it was dry. At crossings (pic 3), I use thin plastic card to butt up against the railtops, and apply plaster to hide the transition from plywood to plastic. That 3rd pic is "posterized" but you get the idea.
You mean like this Rich?
I really have not done much with the Fun Foam from Micheals do to the fact I am doing a lot of work in the house right now.
What I have done different than Rich, is I started with white Fun Foam, and sprayed it Valspar gray primer. Primer flex's with the foam. With some weathering I think it will look great. I am using black for parking lots.
Fun Foam comes in 12 X 18 inch sections for $1.00, that is 6 foot of straight road for a Buck.
I am all so using 3 M Pin Strip for the painted lines on the road. For the double white lines I am using 3M series 72001pin strip.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
richhotrain I am probably the only guy that does this, but I use 1/4" foam board from Hobby Lobby. One of the colors is a very realistic gray. I cut the board into 4" wide strips and glue it down with Scenic Glue. Then, I apply yellow and white automotive stripe tape to mark the center lines and shoulders. Lastly, I taper Woodland Scenics Fine ballast along the edges to form the shouders. Looks great and it is quick and easly to install. It is also the height of Woodland Scenics Foam Track Bed which I use as a base for my tracks. Rich
Can you post pictures of it?
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
cudaken You mean like this Rich? I really have not done much with the Fun Foam from Micheals do to the fact I am doing a lot of work in the house right now. What I have done different than Rich, is I started with white Fun Foam, and sprayed it Valspar gray primer. Primer flex's with the foam. With some weathering I think it will look great. I am using black for parking lots. Fun Foam comes in 12 X 18 inch sections for $1.00, that is 6 foot of straight road for a Buck. I am all so using 3 M Pin Strip for the painted lines on the road. For the double white lines I am using 3M series 72001pin strip. Cuda Ken
CudaMan,
That's why your name came up as one the most admired modeler's on the forums. You do things right and landscape brilliantly.
Phoebe Vet Can you post pictures of it?
Nuts, every time I post photos, I notice my failure to put the "finishing touches" on my landscaping. But what do I care?
cudaken Cuda Ken
Any guy that puts that many Mopars on his layout, is alright by me!
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
"CudaMan,
I am guessing that was tong in cheek Rich?
Like I said, I have not had time to do much with the foam. I installed a new kitchen and hallway floor, new molding and now working on the cabinets in the kitchen.
Section I showed was thrown together so I could see what it could look like.
I would all so guess I stole the idea from you. Sometime ago I saw someone post about the foam from Micheal's and I went looking for it. Now, if I can get mine to look as good as your section.
Ken
cudaken "CudaMan, That's why your name came up as one the most admired modeler's on the forums. You do things right and landscape brilliantly. I am guessing that was tong in cheek Rich? Like I said, I have not had time to do much with the foam. I installed a new kitchen and hallway floor, new molding and now working on the cabinets in the kitchen. Section I showed was thrown together so I could see what it could look like. I would all so guess I stole the idea from you. Sometime ago I saw someone post about the foam from Micheal's and I went looking for it. Now, if I can get mine to look as good as your section. Ken
Oops, Ken, hope you didn't take that the wrong way. No intend to critique your landscaping. I was speaking tongue in cheek, though, by lauding your use of foam board, like me, to build your roads. Brilliant minds think alike!
richhotrain Nuts, every time I post photos, I notice my failure to put the "finishing touches" on my landscaping. But what do I care?
Looks good, Rich, but it would look even better if you filled in the areas between the road surface and the outside edges of the rails. If the foam board is too thick, sheet styrene should do the trick. You'll likely need to build it up as two separate layers: the first layer equal to or slightly greater than the height of the moulded-on spike heads of your track. Apply that to the part of the ties between the spike heads and the main road surface. If your track has styrene plastic ties (like Atlas, Model Power, etc.) use any good solvent-type cement to fasten it in place. The top layer should be thick enough to put its top surface at or just slightly below the top of the rails. You may have to shim the edge which abuts the road surface. Paint the surface a similar colour to that of the main road surface, and your LPBs will have a smoother ride over those crossings. (Don't worry too much about matching the pavement colour exactly - areas like this are often re-paved separately from the roadway, and are often of a different colour.)
I've used plaster and sand. Here's my HowTo with my special tool.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
doctorwayne richhotrain: Nuts, every time I post photos, I notice my failure to put the "finishing touches" on my landscaping. But what do I care? Looks good, Rich, but it would look even better if you filled in the areas between the road surface and the outside edges of the rails. If the foam board is too thick, sheet styrene should do the trick. You'll likely need to build it up as two separate layers: the first layer equal to or slightly greater than the height of the moulded-on spike heads of your track. Apply that to the part of the ties between the spike heads and the main road surface. If your track has styrene plastic ties (like Atlas, Model Power, etc.) use any good solvent-type cement to fasten it in place. The top layer should be thick enough to put its top surface at or just slightly below the top of the rails. You may have to shim the edge which abuts the road surface. Paint the surface a similar colour to that of the main road surface, and your LPBs will have a smoother ride over those crossings. (Don't worry too much about matching the pavement colour exactly - areas like this are often re-paved separately from the roadway, and are often of a different colour.) Wayne
richhotrain: Nuts, every time I post photos, I notice my failure to put the "finishing touches" on my landscaping. But what do I care?
Great idea, Wayne. I'm gonna do that. With winter drawing closer here in the Chicago area, I am developing a To Do List for the layout. That will be a top priority, plus finishing the ballasting in front of the train station as well as a whole host of other "finishing touches".
Rich, if you are worried that you offend me, well not really After Sliver Pilot, I am pretty thick skinned! Wasn't sure how to take it at the time with me knowing it was not a good picture.
Two things you can do to make it up to me.
When I am ready, answer some questions about the Fun Foam.
Meet me at the dinner, and I will buy you a !
You have gave me something to shoot for as far as the Fun Foam.
cudaken Rich, if you are worried that you offend me, well not really After Sliver Pilot, I am pretty thick skinned! Wasn't sure how to take it at the time with me knowing it was not a good picture. Two things you can do to make it up to me. When I am ready, answer some questions about the Fun Foam. Meet me at the dinner, and I will buy you a ! You have gave me something to shoot for as far as the Fun Foam. Ken
All right, Ken, but you answer some questions first. What the heck is the Fun Foam?
I use a product called Durham's Water Putty, which was recommended here by Bob Grech. It's a powder that I get at the hardware store. I mix it with water, and add a bit of vinegar to slow setting and give me more time to work with it.
Depending on how much water you use, you can make it thick enough to spoon on, or thin enough to pour. One nice feature of this stuff is that it doesn't shrink appreciably as it hardens. It does harden pretty quickly, though. I use a foam brush to keep smoothing the surface, removing the small air bubbles and little pockets of un-mixed powder as they surface. Keep wetting the foam brush, and wiping it off. You can shape a crown on the road, too, if you want to model that.
The natural color of the powder is a light tan. I usually use a gray acrylic paint wash to color the road. It takes the wash very well, and you can touch it up with straight gray right out of the same bottle and not notice the difference. It will be fully set and ready for paint an hour or two after you pour it, which lets you make a lot of progress in one day. For grade crossings, I work the mixture right up to the tops of the outside rail edges. (I use a piece of styrene between the rails.)
Once it sets, it is very hard and extremely durable. It won't easily chip or dent.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Someoen has to say it...
Roads? Where we're going, we don't NEED roads!
Hmm, perhaps I will put a DeLorean crashed into a pine tree on my 50's era layout...
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.