I had an n scale layout for many years and found as you did that the small wheel footprint of the n scale locomotives was pretty unforgiving. These track cleaning threads pop up frequently, unlike most, and based on my experience you are getting some very sound advice this go around from the posts so far.
Here's one other thing to try, and I'm open to what the other posters think pro or con. I always had a suspicion that after the track was totally clean something else was going on and that was oxidation. One thing that seemed to help was just the tiniest film of a product called Wahl Clipper Oil (two bucks at most beauty supply stores). I was very reluctant to apply additonal gunk to the rails, particularly given the typical old wives tale track these threads often took. With the Wahl though I did get the sense that it helped. My guess is that it slowed down oxidation.
The trick was to use it very sparingly. I'd put a drop on my finger and lightly touch the rail every six feet or so and then run the locos through it.
Lance
Visit Miami's Downtown Spur at www.lancemindheim.com
Dinos Thanks for the reply and suggestion. Locos do stop unexpectedly indifferent places every time. I do believe that it really relates with cleaning on the tracks and wheels. I am cleaning tracks with alcohol and temporary I see better results. Perhaps I need to find a better fluid for cleaning the tracks. Also I have not find a good way to clean the wheels. Dinos
Thanks for the reply and suggestion. Locos do stop unexpectedly indifferent places every time. I do believe that it really relates with cleaning on the tracks and wheels. I am cleaning tracks with alcohol and temporary I see better results. Perhaps I need to find a better fluid for cleaning the tracks. Also I have not find a good way to clean the wheels.
Dinos
Huh? You didn't even read my post? Again, use paint thinner to clean the track, and use a paper towel with paint thinner stretched over the rails and roll the engine/cars over it.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Lots of good thoughts here.
You are right about a larger scale. The larger the scale the less the problem. I'm in S and don't have these problems.
Enjoy
Paul
How old are the engines?? when you say Trix i think old , or Bachman i think , how would you say , inexpensive. I have been doing n scale forever and years ago this happened all the time, then folks started putting in flywheels , which made the engines fun so much better. If your engines are older ones , get a new on and try it. Also if you are running 2 older engines together , try soldering a wire between the 2. The more wheel pickup , the better.
While many have suggested cleaning wheels and contacts, it has not yet been mentioned or asked if you have lubed your engines as well? You say you have only 2-3 years experience, are you aware locos may need periodic internal drive gear maintenance lubing?
Use a plastic-compatible lube oil to oil your internal loco drive gears, especially with plastic drive gears. {Available at LHS or online hobby e-tailers}. Gears that aren't properly lubricated can cause jerking and stopping as well as bad electrical connections. Even brand new locos may need lubing the gears.
I had that problem with one loco I forgot to lube when I got it, and cleaned it's wheels fanatically to get it and the track clean to stop jerking and stopping, but until I ran another lubed loco over the track which ran fine, I didn't realize I had forgotten to lube the loco in question and that solved the problem.
{Just a drop on each drive gear should do it...as too much lube oil applied can result in oil being spewed on the track causing more contact or slippage problems}.
Just a thought or opinion, others may vary.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Try this clean your locomotive wheels and carefully wipe off the brass wheel elecricial contract strip and seen if that shows a improvement.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
While CRC-2-26 has some White Mineral Oil in it, it is actually Petroleum Distilate based. I've been using it for several years now and it does not leave any kind of mess behind. All it leaves behind is a "thin, molecular, non-hardening film that increases equipment life by combating the return of corrosion". And it really does work, I only have to wipe down the layout once or twice a year. And I've only had to clean wheels once in the last 3 years. You don't have to use much either, just spray a bit on a clean rag to dampen it and wipe the rails, For wheels, you just spray a bit on a paper towel, lay it on the track and run each truck on the towel for 10-15 seconds. The rails really shine when you're done, it's kind of like a chemical gleaming although not quite as long lasting, but a lot less work. I highly recommend this stuff and wouldn't ever go back to any of the other cleaners mentioned. You can find it at HD & Lowes in the electrical department.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Dinos I have built a layout in n-scale and I am operating with many different locomotives European and US (Trix, Fleishmann, Atlas, Bachmann, etc). However I continually face a lot of operational problems. The locos often stop working or they stuck unexpectedly in the middle of the track.
But if each locomotive has its own place to stop it could have to do with each locomotives power pick ups. Do they stop only going one direction or do they stop when going backwards as well? I had an Altas E8 that ran like a champ backward but didn't do well at all going forward. So I make a dummy unit to run with it in the forward direction and ran the real power backward all the time. How old are these locomotives. Are they all current production or are they left over from some prior owner. N-scale under went an amazing improvement in quality in the late 1980s.
There are several liquids you can use to clean track. There is denatured Alcohol, or some of the blue track cleaning liquid (which I prefer) made by Lifelike. There are several abrasive and semi abrasive wiping blocks. They clean the rails but leave behind some dust or scratch the rails. Having lots of little pieces of cork laying around, I glued them to small blocks of wood with white glue and use them to wipe the rails then use the liquid cleaners to go over the rails. When the cork wears out I toss them. Liquids leave behind some film so wiping with a dry cloth after using the liquid prevents the film from developing. Do not use paint thinner, WD40, CRC 2-26. They are oil based and will make more of a mess if they are not completely wiped dry. The best electrical contact is when everything is CLEAN and DRY. Also do not use Goo Gone. I have also made several slider cars with masonite pads underneath and run one in each train. Adding more track feeders will help with conductivity through loose railjoiners. Cleaning the loco wheels as well as the track is just as important and cleaning inside the trucks where electrical pickups are is another maintenance step.
Dinos I am relatively new in this hobby, two-three years of experience. I have built a layout in n-scale and I am operating with many different locomotives European and US (Trix, Fleishmann, Atlas, Bachmann, etc). However I continually face a lot of operational problems. The locos often stop working or they stuck unexpectedly in the middle of the track. When I clean up the rails, using alcohol, the thing is getting better but does not disappear entirely. I would appreciate any tip or advise from people that have more experience than myself. Are these troubles n-scale related? Should I move upwards to H0, even if I have to compromise the space?
I am relatively new in this hobby, two-three years of experience. I have built a layout in n-scale and I am operating with many different locomotives European and US (Trix, Fleishmann, Atlas, Bachmann, etc). However I continually face a lot of operational problems. The locos often stop working or they stuck unexpectedly in the middle of the track.
When I clean up the rails, using alcohol, the thing is getting better but does not disappear entirely. I would appreciate any tip or advise from people that have more experience than myself. Are these troubles n-scale related? Should I move upwards to H0, even if I have to compromise the space?
Dinos.
If you go to the, "SEARCH OUR COMMUNITY" box located on the right side of the Forum page below your Profile info and type in "Gleam and Contour" in Model Railroader Forums and hit search, you will find a great number of Threads on the subject of cleaning your track using the "Gleam" method. It takes a little effort, but the results appear to be worth it.
Blue Flamer.
First of all, use paint thinner to clean the rails. Using an old shirt, or rag, just use a little bit a thinner, and wrap the rag with your index finger and just go along the top of the rails. I found out the alcohol doesn't clean as good as paint thinner.
For the wheels, again, with some paint thinner, using a paper towel this time, and stretch it over the rails and run the locos over that. You can do this for rolling stock also.
Thanks. Any ideas on how I can clean the wheels? Could be very big problem.
P.S. I love Hamburg.
Sounds, as if you don´t have enough track feeder wires. Rail joiners do not safeguard conductivity sufficient. Add more feeder wires and the problem should be gone.
Also check the wheels of your locos. Gunk likes to accumulate on the wheels, not only on the track. Clean the wheels frequently.