First of all, I want to apologize for resurrecting a 3 year old post. I'm beginning to wonder if there are actually folks out there that still tinker with these old Athearn blue box specials.
I bought 5 RDC-1s about 10 years ago in various states of newness. Paid a good price for 'em & decaled them like the Trinity Railway Express. They look not so bad for a low level modeller as myself.
I've never had a layout and have had a hard time tweaking these little guys to run well. I have an EZ Trak loop from a Bachmann set I got my boys and have tried to get these guys to run on it.
Anyway, here's my inventory: 2 Powered RDC-1s with the Rubberband drive (rubber bands are long dead, currently awaiting new ones), 2 dummies, and my problem child - 1 Powered with the Ernst gear drive conversion.
Here is where my concern is. I can't seem to get the truck with the gear drive to set flat on the track. It's always derailing. It also seems to sit RIGHT on the metal, and I'm constantly hearing the gears grind. The truck wasn't moving freely, but I determined it was because of some wire that I soldered from the pickup to the motor - over time, it had atrophied and it was very stiff. I cut that, leaving the truck on the back to pick up the power. That could cause concerns later if I run on a track with spotty connections, but I'll worry about that later.
Right now, I need suggestions on how to shim the gear drive so it sits off the base and allows the wheels to sit flat on the rails. Any suggestions would be great!
last mountain & eastern hogger Hi again ken, 49er is right , it stands for "Rail Diesel Car" and the manufacturer was the BUDD company, who also made many of the stainless steel streamlined passenger cars such as the cars for the "California Zephyr", CPR's "Canadian" and many others.
Hi again ken,
49er is right , it stands for "Rail Diesel Car" and the manufacturer was the BUDD company, who also made many of the stainless steel streamlined passenger cars such as the cars for the "California Zephyr", CPR's "Canadian" and many others.
?
I was able to answer my own question, I forgot I had a old Blue Box engine that was still stock. I have the PA I asked about making it a dummy.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
Depending on what I do as far as home work (replacing floors in the house) I am close to starting on the RDC decoder install. But, I ran into a little problem, which end is the front?
I know they are the same as far as looks, but I need to wire the decoder in so the headlight is facing the right direction.
The truck that has the metal tower, is that the left side or right side? I currently have no other Blue Box engines with decoders.
Ken
cudaken Randy, what is a MV Lenses? Is MV a manufacture? Ken
Randy, what is a MV Lenses? Is MV a manufacture?
After a little Google searching, I came up with www.mvproducts.com, Mvproducts.com is COMING SOON to REGISTER.COM
Might never happen, don,t know.
The past few years the MV Products have been touch and go when ordering from my LHS.
A Google search will show quite a few on line shops that might have some MV Products in stock. I found some shops in a search. I will let you do the searching. It will be a good learning experience.
From Walther's site for those who do not like to search the site.
MV Products, located in Orange, California, is owned by Bob Gawers. MV Products designs realistic headlights and marker lenses.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Yes. I dunno if they have a decent web site, but pictures of a lot of their options are in the Walthers catalog. Some are specified to fit certain locos or light castings, others just give a size.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Chad,
Where's the alien autopsy?
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
You need to find what MV lenses fit, and then put 1 LED behind it. The oblong opening is a twin sealed beam light laying on its side which is really 2 independent lights in a common housing.
Chad, just got the spur for passenger services up and running on my layout. I had not done anything with the RDC car, because there was not a station. But, I have it sitting here in front of me and I will start the conversion shortly.
Part that I am having a problem with in my head is how do I stuff a round LED into a Oblong Hole for a headlight!
Ken,
I'm reviving this topic cuz I've been working on a couple RDC's myself. I've been reworking a Proto RDC-2 into one that appeared on the television series the "X Files" Season 3, episodes 'Nesei' & then part 2; '731'. The jist of it was Dr.'s were doing things on rail cars, the episodes included the states of TN, KY, & IA but, were actually shot in the BC in one of their (BCRail) yards. A sweet Dash 8 'Draper Taper' #3613 was shown in the first episode. Well on this Proto, I did some modification... I machined out the weight behind the baggage doors to allow a see though view, & machined out the vestibule ends, cuz in the episodes all but one of the side doors were open. I am currently working over the windows, carving off the trim, in order to plate them over, & making inner vestibule ends, after the side door removal. The most difficult part is scratchbuilding roof light pods & graphting them into place. This one will be self propelled as designed. And Yes, I did model the coolest part first, as seen in this pic!I did find an Athearn RB drive unit, & it's condensed size is welcomed, & will also make a nice model. Please tell me more & send pix of your new geared system, it sounds interesting. I'd hate to make this ATH a freewheeler, or try to redesign a whole drive unit. (Did that with an Ath Rotary Plow already!!!) Please Enjoy the sneak shot (before stripping, & way before detailing & finishing) Thanks!
Well as unlikely as it seems while Simon 1966 and I where at the Boeing St Louis Train Show guess what Simon found at the second table we stopped at? A new in the box Ernst Super Gear Set for $12.00.
Little disappointed that I will not be running rubber brands, but for $12.00 I was not going to say no.
Randy thanks for the picture as well.
Other than weathering on the grills, yeah, pretty much all silver up there. Almost the entire carbody was made of stainless steel. Some railroads painted the ends or applied stripes for visibility.
Randy, not sure how she would react. If I removed the 21 year old part it might go good!
Steam Freak, about how big are the rubber bands?
By the way, the dome on top of the car, I am guessing that is the radiator? Do any of you folks happen to have pictures of one that been detailed? I am guessing they should not be all silver.
Thanks for all the help.
Ken, my RDC can pull two dummy units on level track... I haven't checked them on a grade. Sometimes you have to degrease the bands with alcohol if any oil migrates from the shaft supports. The clear come in one large size that are perfect for these, and also make great traction tires for high drivered steamers.
Show her that post and maybe you'll be allowed to buy a brand new Proto 1000 RDC
SteamFreak Forget the rubber bands Athearn used. Go to Wal-Mart and look for the clear hair bands I've used on the unit above, or even the colored ones in assorted sizes if you can't find the clear. They don't rot out.
Forget the rubber bands Athearn used. Go to Wal-Mart and look for the clear hair bands I've used on the unit above, or even the colored ones in assorted sizes if you can't find the clear. They don't rot out.
Hum, far as the surgery thing, I think I will pass on that one. Just tell them they are for my 21 year old super model wife.
Do the clear ones only come in one sizes?
By the way, how many if any can your RDC car pull? I am hoping for 1 to 2.
If anyone gives you strange looks just let them know that these items are for after the surgery. Works every time.
Hum lets see, I now own nail polish remover, hair spray, clear nail polish and now I am going shopping for clear hair bands? Makes you stop and think doesn't?
Ran my last night, tracked well and slow speed was fine. Reason slow speed was fine is because the rubber bands are slipping. I was surprised at first when it would move at around 20 sMPH, then I hit a turnout and got stuck.
Tips on drive bands?
Ken, you could put a big 24 volt motor like this in it, which drops it to scale speeds. It's very DCC friendly now, even if I'm not.
ATLANTIC CENTRALthey are not working lights. It could be done, I just have not bothered.
I was thinking it would take 6 LEDs. 2 yeloglos for the headlights and 4 small red ones for the taillights - directional lighting, of course.
How is the lighting set up on the Proto 1000 RDCs??
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Yes the tower uses the existing trucks, and actually floats on the axles.
The head light is that little hood on the ends of the roof, they are not working lights.
It could be done, I just have not bothered.
I bought all six I have for less than $15 each, but then spent about $50 converting each one.
Sheldon
Sure G Plain, you are not having a senior moment
Sheldon, thank you for the pictures. So the tower mount to the rubber band trucks. Where does the headlight go anyway?
Randy, when I saw the Gold Motor I thought it had been up graded.
Getting ready to run it now and see what happens.
cudakenwhat did you pay for yours?
Oh man, that was almost 20 years ago. I don't remember (not a seinior moment either)
Here are some photos of one of my Athearn RDC's with the Ernst gear conversion.
One other tip - if you have reasonably broad curves, over 26" radius, you can use short shank Kadee couplers and get nearly scale car spacing when coupled.
My units have Helix Humper can motors, NWSL wheels, Ernst gears and A-line drive shafts.
The motor is the giveaway, unless it was replaced at some point. The gold-colored motors would NEVER be fromt he 60's. The 60's AThearn motors were much bigger than the 'modern' ones. Prior to the gold one there was a black one that is about the same size, then there was the old 'giant' one - the reason the GP7 was wider than scale - the old motor wouldn;t fit under a scale Geep hood.
Boy talk about time marching on, Not. Little disappointed now thinking it was from the 60's.
G Plain, what did you pay for yours? This one is marked $20.00.