Tortoise Technical Question/tips

[jwmurrayjr]

Assembling a Tortoise with the spring wire included, it appears that the "throw wire" extends slightly over 1-1/4" above the base of the machine. This can be regulated slightly by the length of the 90 degree bend that you put in the wire to fit into the machine throw-arm.

1-1/4" should be adequate for 2 layers of nominal 1/2" material and HO cork roadbed.

I assume that the throw wire must be either cut off or bent at the top of the switch throw-bar (I haven't installed a machine yet. But I'm getting close, Don. [:)])

I keep .025 spring wire (25 cents for 3' at the LTS) for switch linkages and other stuff so replacing some "links" shouldn't be a problem. I cut the wire with some "hardened" needle nose pliers.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

...who wants to spend extra money and make a trip to buy a piece of wire that is only a bit longer than what the Tortoise machine comes with?

Only the people who want them to work.

QUOTE: I've wondered why Circuitron, who manufactures the Tortoise ...can't afford to make the wire a scant 1 inch longer. Oh what an expense, especially for a machine that ONLY sells for $16.95 retail. - Mondo

They CAN - if the market is out there for it. - SUGGEST it to them.

Oh by the way. The first time I cut some piano (tensilized) wire half of my cutting blade went flying. I had to find some special cutters for this - for $16.95 .

[mondotrains]

You are correct, but who wants to spend extra money and make a trip to buy a piece of wire that is only a bit longer than what the Tortoise machine comes with? I've wondered why Circuitron, who manufactures the Tortoise and obviously has cornered the market on slow-motion switch machines, can't afford to make the wire a scant 1 inch longer. I'm only guessing, but it might mean the box the machine comes in might have to be slightly larger. Oh what an expense, especially for a machine that ONLY sells for $16.95 retail.

Mondo

QUOTE: Originally posted by jwmurrayjr

Tortoise mentions that the wire must be replaced with a longer wire (piano wire available at LHS) if the thickness in the mounting area is over 1".

[jwmurrayjr]

Tortoise mentions that the wire must be replaced with a longer wire (piano wire available at LHS) if the thickness in the mounting area is over 1".

[mondotrains]

Hi,
The reason I think you need to mount the tortoise's directly to the plywood is because the tortoise comes with a wire throw that isn't really that long. In fact, with my 1/2" plywood benchwork, with 1/2" Homosote mounted on top, and finally with raised roadbed made from cork, the wire barely goes through the throwbars, with only a little bit to trim off. If I were to add a 1/2" piece of plywood as you suggest, the wire definitely wouldn't be long enough. Thus, anyone considering your approach needs to think about the thickness of their benchwork. Also, there are many places under my layout where because of joist position and "clustered" turnouts I have found there is barely room for the tortoises to fit. If I had cut a piece of plywood with enough "overhang" as you suggested, I wouldn't be able to fit the tortoises. I really think that cutting an extra piece of wood to mount the tortoise on, just so you can drive drywall screws through it, is an extra step that might cause other problems, as I've suggested.

Obivously, there are many ways to "skin a cat" and if your approach works for you, that's great. I just want other guys who might have thicker benchwork like mine, to be aware of the problem with the length of the wire throw.

Hope this helps.
Mondo

QUOTE: Originally posted by clinchvalley

I still say mounting a Tortoise directly to the benchwork is the hardest way to do it. First thing I do when I open a box is throw away the template - not necessary. When laying track, mark where the center of the throw bar is and drill the hole (yes, 1/2 works better). I also put a piece of masking tape over the hole then lay the track. I mount the Tortoise to a scarp piece of plywood (1/2 or 3/4 works well) with enough over hang for a couple of dry wall screws. Hold the Tortoise where you want it and drive the two drywall screws home. I can mount a dozen of them in less than an hour.

I don't use edge connectors. I use an eight place terminal strip for the wires soldered directly to the Tortoise. I leave the wire about 10" long or so and after mounting the Tortoise attach it somewhere convenient.

As an aside, unless you're only buying one or two, do not shop at Radio Shack - way too expensive. On line suppliers like Mouser are the place to shop. They are very quick and very inexpensive.

[ClinchValleySD40]

Originally posted by jwmurrayjr

Do you folks have any tips on mounting Tortoises under existing switches. I have 8 that I would rather not pull up if possible. Fortunately (I think) they are mounted on cork and 1/2" of blue foam on top of the plywood. Hopefully I can drill a hole in the plywood and then use a knife to gently remove the foam and cork beneath the throw bar.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

I had one in the same situation, mine was on cork on 3/4" plywood. I drilled a small hole between the ties alongside the throwbar. This gave me a reference point under the layout. I used a RotoZip with the bit set just slightly less than the thickness. Work slow and carefully and cut the hole out. Worked pretty good.

Larry

http://www.youtube.com/user/ClinchValleySD40

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52481330@N05/

http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php/cat/500/page/1/ppuser/8745/sl/c

 

 

 

 

• Reply