Code 83 or Code 100

[Anonymous]

Hello,

I am currently shopping around for track to complete the Norwood/Mcdonald portion of my GBW layout and am not a track wiz esp with all the new products.. i am looking at atlas customline turnouts along with their other brown tie products... i have heard of some stories of whole trains derailing on even the middle of straight code 100 flex track because some wheel flanges are too deep supposedly? Also i noticed a price difference i personally have had no problems with my one peice of code 100 butted right up against some code 83 but that might be an exception... can anyone shed some light on this i am looking mostly at code 100 on the reasoning of cost but dont want to sacrifice quality for price when for a 1.50 more at trainworld/trainland (www.trainworld1.com) Please help thanks

[Anonymous]

I have never had a with my equipment derailing because of code 100/83 from Atlas. I have experienced derailments due to poor trucks/wheelsets and wheels not being in gauge.
Ch

[Anonymous]

thanks anyone else care to share any knowledge with me

[Don Gibson]

Derailments are rare on most track.products. It's the Switches that produce them

ATLAS Code 83 is their newer product line designed to look more REAL. I cannot think of many reasons to have code 100 today - except the fact I already have some.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson

Derailments are rare on most track.products. It's the Switches that produce them

ATLAS Code 83 is their newer product line designed to look more REAL. I cannot think of many reasons to have code 100 today - except the fact I already have some.

I AGREE [:)][:)][:)]

[Anonymous]

thanks to every one except for bigboy and don for their helpful comments please i do know that the switches are the main points of derailment even on the realthing but i am talking on code 100 where some wheel flanges hit the "spikes" simulated plastic please post some helpful information here i am lookings at code 100 FOR THE REASON THAT IT IS CHEAPER is cheaper better or should i spend a few bucks more for code 83 I dont care if it looks real or not although i do like the brown ties bc they are narrower and pull out easier i want to know if this is suitable for my yard which will probably hold all my equipment at one time or another....

[Anonymous]

The code 100 track is taller than the code 83. If you have flanges on wheels that are too deep , they will cause trouble on the code 83 before they will on the code 100. It's no big deal to change out those wheeelsets which will probably cause trouble elsewhere (turnouts, grade crossings, etc.). The Atlas code 83 is as reliable as the code 100 if layed properly. Code 100 is a little more forgiving if the roadbed is rough or uneven.

[Anonymous]

I have used Code 100 Peco Track for 37 years without any problems. In that time I have run big coarse flanges such as Triang without difficulty. As Don Gibson says, lay your track carefully. I try to place my points all the one way & run the trains the "right" way through them. If a train comes off track on a straight it is probably due to excessive speed, not the track or wheels. Mosttly today's wheels are ok.

[Eriediamond]

I still love ya Don and Big-Boy !!!!!! [(-D][(-D]

[FJ and G]

I don't model in HO (used to) and used Code 100. While I think that 83 looks better, doesn't 100 simulate the newest and tallest rails currently used on mainlines?

Dave Vergun

[Anonymous]

According to the October 2003 issue of MR, code 100 represents "heaviest main line (rare)," weighing a prototypical 156 pounds per yard. Code 83 represents "typical mainline use," weighing 132 pounds per yard. Code 70 represents "Secondary routes and sidings," weighing 100 pounds per yard.
Reed

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jesse Fameree

Hello,

i am looking at atlas customline turnouts along with their other brown tie products... i have heard of some stories of whole trains derailing on even the middle of straight code 100 flex track because some wheel flanges are too deep supposedly? Also ...Please help thanks

QUOTE: I have never had a with my equipment derailing because of code 100/83 from Atlas. I have experienced derailments due to poor trucks/wheelsets and wheels not being in gauge.
Ch

I also have never heard of wheels derailing on code 100 flextrack, and think I've been in the hobby a while. It's next to non-existant. We have had ONE poster on this forum who Budd car trucks are suspect.

If you have 'wheel flanges that are oversized (made for the 'Toy Train Market)
that's not the track maker's fault. Your WHEELS would then be the problem, and as far as I know, only older Rivarossi ,and some European makers had overdeep flanges.

SUMMATION: If this is largely CONJECTURE on your part, I think your fears are unfounded. IF you HAVE any equipment with oversized flanges, fix them - or buy European track.. Pretty simple.

Your welcome, and I think you owe Big Boy an apology.
D.G.

[Anonymous]

Hello, Somehow I think that derailments are often caused more by decifiences in track laying technique rather than track size. As well, metal wheel sets are much less apt to derail than plastic wheels. The plastic wheels just seem to attract bits of crud whereas metal wheels stay clean and poli***he track rails as well. I really can't see a big visual difference between code 100 and 83 track. My observations are to use metal wheels and Accurail plastic trucks and good quality turnouts. I have tried Hornby OO switches with Atlas HO code 100 track and Hornby are not as reliable as Peco HO turnouts. I guess as a middle aged person there are advantages to close range sight deterioration, so that code 100 or 83 is very much academic. Track laying is an art! Regards, Don M Toronto

[nfmisso]

Code 100: cheaper, stronger

Code 83: more realistic

Also keep in mind the treadwidth of the wheels, the vast majority of American HO scale models come with .110" treadwidth, semi scale is .088" (with all sorts of people complaining about operation problems with Athearn used this on some Genesis freigth cars), correct scale is .064".

Thus, if you are not using .088" treadwidth, I do not see the sense in using anything but code 100. If you want to be scale fickle, you are hand laying your track, not using flex etc.

[Anonymous]

okay don you have clarified that BUT I FEEL AS THOUGH YOU THINK THAT I AM IN FEAR OF THE "DEEP FLANGES" IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY it was stated in the track article in the october 2003 issue of mr although it might have been another one i incorrectly stated that it was code 100 and i had my sizing messed up i meant to refer to the atlas metal wheel sets on CODE 73 not 100 sorry DON although i would
have appreciated some input from big boy on his view but all in all i hope that i could talk to you and share some thoughts sorry if you thought i was being rude by that comment but im looking for anyone who has had this problem but if the majority of you say to the contrary i shall go with you because you have been in it longer than me THANKS DON ........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Big boy Please next time add a little something you had me kinda frustrated there when i got a reply and it was that..but i guess that is one more vote to IT cant happen. THANKS TO ALL SORRY DON ONCE AGAIN AND I HOPE THAT WE MIGHT BECOME FRIENDS?!?!?!

[BRAKIE]

The only locomotives I heard of that bottoms out on C83 is the Older AHM and Rossi locomotives with the deep flanges.I am not sure about the train set type of engines from Bachmann ,Life Like and Model Power.
Now,As far as the Atlas track I use C83 and have had no derailments.As you may already know just take care in laying your track and be sure that the wheels and coupler trip pins is in proper gauge and I believe you will have no problems.[:D]

As a side note..Some of the newer Athearn non Genesis cars come with .088" flanges..I have not had a problem with these wheels to date but will assure you they will find any faults in one's track laying..I had one small glitch in my track work that I over looked.[:0] .My 5344/5347s was fast in pointing out that mistake [:I]. After fixing that foolish mistake the cars run perfectly.[:D]

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jesse Fameree

... i have heard of some stories of whole trains derailing on even the middle of straight code 100 flex track because some wheel flanges are too deep supposedly? ... can anyone shed some light on this i am looking mostly at code 100 on the reasoning of cost but dont want to sacrifice quality for price ...

Jesse:
I can only opine over what you said, and I quote a person's comments. Moving on:

ANY equipment using NMRA's flanges will work on Code 70 on up to code 100. These were establish about 50 years ago and in use on all US designed / made HO products.
Now we're back to:
Code 100 is the oldest (and cheapest)
Code 83 looks better
Code 70 is probably most accurate - being closer to 90 lb rail - for steam era and and the majority of track in existence today.

It's your money.

[jwmurrayjr]

I like code 83 much better. I think that it's easier to work with and looks better. It has a thicker tie (to make it match code 100 in height) and finer spike and tie detail too.

If you have doubts about existing locos or rolling stock, buy enough code 83 for a loop (and maybe a turnout or two) and test your stuff.

[:)]

[R. Vollmar]

I HAVE LAID BOTH CODE 100 AND 83 FLEX TRACK. BEYOND THOSE GOOD COMMENTS ALREADY OFFERED, I HAVE FOUND THAT WITH ATLAS CODE 83 BOTH RAILS SLIDE IN THE TIES; WITH CODE 100 ONLY ONE SLIDES. THIS IS A REAL BENEFIT FOR GETTING TIGHT RAIL JOINTS SINCE THERE IS VERY LITTLE MEASURING TO DO AS YOU LAY THE TRACK. IT ALSO INCREASES THE SPEED OF YOUR TRACKLAYING.

[lesterperry]

This has nothing to due with rail size but a tip in laying flex track. Atlas flex track 100 one rail slides 83 both slide. Use this to your advantage. Stagger your joints. I slide one rail out about 1/2 the lenght of the section and push it into the ties on the next section which staggers the joint about 1 1/2 feet from right to left rail. This can be a little chalenging at first but once you figure it out you will love it especialy in turns. When you come to a turn out just cut the rails as usual and start again on other side.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for pointing out the nmra standards i think most of us knew that already but You all seem to want to place my opinion in the category that I have had this happen and that i should test my equipment. I have tested all of my equipment because it runs on a friends layout so lets not place the blame on that, i do not wi***o get hostile but i dont think you are understanding my question the way i want it to be answered i am looking for a simple yes or no on the question of has any track had a recurring derailment problem not caused by the track or caused by the track rolling stock coupler to tie ratio ECT ....thanks vollmar and lester and esp don for your comments but i would like some stories on what brands work and what dont because i have a deadline to meet so all the help is appreciated

[Anonymous]

Jesse ; reading this thread over the last week , It looks like your apoligizing for being rude to this guy ,that guy , and anybody else who does't seem to answer your question. Maybe you should make a few friends , and spend some time and money, on trial and error , LIKE EVERYONE ELSE, to answer your questions. In short, your derailments will be consistantly by differant causes. This ,and other forums ,provide a wealth of tips and tricks. Nobody gets a free ride to Nirvana. Read articles,forums,groups, then make your best choices, and fix the mistakes as you go along. It's just a hobby.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jesse Fameree

... i dont think you are understanding my question the way i want it to be answered i am looking for a simple yes or no on the question of has any track had a recurring derailment problem not caused by the track or caused by the track rolling stock coupler to tie ratio ECT ....... i would like some stories on what brands work and what dont because i have a deadline to meet so all the help is appreciated

SIMPLE ANSWER: "Not caused by the track" YES! (1) Trucks/wheels not following the track or couplers too low to clear turnouts are generally the problems. (2) ALL HO track brands work if they're reasonably laid.. . Repeat: : ALL brands work! - awaiting your skills and efforts -

Your questions seem odd since you say you've run your equipment on other peoples layouts. I'm sure you've asked these same questions.

[Anonymous]

Jesse ; reading this thread over the last week , It looks like your apoligizing for being rude to this guy ,that guy , and anybody else who does't seem to answer your question. Maybe you should make a few friends , and spend some time and money, on trial and error , LIKE EVERYONE ELSE, to answer your questions. In short, your derailments will be consistantly by differant causes. This ,and other forums ,provide a wealth of tips and tricks. Nobody gets a free ride to Nirvana. Read articles,forums,groups, then make your best choices, and fix the mistakes as you go along. It's just a hobby.


you know that this is the first post i am only 15 so i would like to apoligize for my rudeness but please rororo what you said WAS VERY RUDE TO ME and by that you put into question the sincerity and genrosity of the model railroading world and i as a model railroader dont look kindly on comments such as this I THOUGHT THIS WAS SUPPOSED TO BE THE WORLDS GREATEST HOBBY AND AS FOR MONEY I HAVE OVER A 1000 STUCK INTO MY RAILROAD SO PLEASE DONT TELL ME TO SPEND MORE MONEY BECAUSE I AM ONLY 15 AND THAT IS ALL OF MY OWN MONEY FROM TIME AND HARD WORK AT JOBS YES THATS RIGHT A JOB TO EARN THEMONEY TO FUND MY HOBBY NOW PLEASE I WISH NOT TO BE RUDE BUT IT IS COMMENTS SUCH AS YOURS THAT HURTS THE PUBLIC IMAGE OF THE HOBBY thanks and i hope that we canput this behind us

[Anonymous]

Jesse ; my comments are directed at you, and not the whole hobby. Knowledge [and lack of it ] has a price. Good luck in your endeavors.

[Don Gibson]

Jesse:

Most of these posts here AGREED. Perhaps that's what you didn't want to hear.
In any case your questions were poorly stated. OK, your 15. Hopefully That will change.

Since 99.9% of all track works with today's NMRA wheels - This is a no-brainer.

Ask questions, try to understand the answers, and most of all - 'get the chip off your shoulder'. (Over-reacting to replies).

[Anonymous]

and good luck to you and maybe if i run into you we can start off on a new foot? that would be great but for now lets just forget about this nonesense...i agree don my questions were not clear cut straight to the point they could have had many diffrent replies but in any case like i said lets all walk away from this with the vast knowledge this post has provided and move on hopefully i might get to learn more from your supposed vast knowledge there ro roro that would be a real pleasure and maybe you could learn something from me to in the process THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE