Broadway Limited

[mobilman44]

HI again!

Yikes, I apologize for not remembering my own experience and stating such in my ealier post.  When the BLI ATSF 2-10-2/4s came out two years ago I got two of them and they would not run or they ran sporadically.  FINALLY, I - with the help of you guys on this Forum - figured it out.  Yes, the tether would not fully connect.  With a micro bit I cleaned out the female side and glory be, it solved the problem!!!!  Just make sure you use a smaller, rather than larger diameter bit.

That being said, one would think that all locos are fully tested (ala Lionel of old), and we would never have some of these inexcusable problems that seem to crop up on so many mid/high priced pieces.

Hey, ENJOY !!!!!

Mobilman44

 

[lesterperry]

 I know this is off topic but Ken I love the car. I had a 340 back in the day.

[cudaken]

  As soon as I saw T1, I knew it was going to be the plug. I had more than my fair share of bad luck with BLI quality control. There services department has more than made up for the bad QC.

 As stated, leave it in the track. 

              Cuda Ken

[lesterperry]

  I operated for a couple of hours this evening. My T1 was not running the whole time but when called on it performed flawlessly. Now to fix an old double slip switch that has been giving me trouble. I suspect it will have to be replaced as it is kinda butchered up at this point. $$$$ ouch!

[rjake4454]

twhite

But that damned tether drove me NUTS!   Every time I had to hook up one of the locos, I thought I was going to break something, I had to push it in so forcefully.  I have tethered locos from other manufacturers (Proto, Genesis, Rivarossi, Spectrum) and the connections are extremely easy and firm.  BLI's on the other hand are real 'grunt and groaners' to connect up. 

Couldn't agree more. I have a rule now, I never disconnect the tether for any reason, once its seated properly, thats why I don't put them back in the boxes for transport.

I hope they decide to go for the wireless drawbar, infrared thing that Lionel has been doing successfully for years. Sometimes I get so fed up with HO I just like to run my brother's scale Lionel engines for a while around on the plywood for this very reason. Its a real breath of fresh air not to ever have to worry about those annoying tethers!

[rjake4454]

lesterperry

This is an older photo but it is one of my favorites. Staged with about 35 coal cars.

Thats a great shot, it really does the engine justice. I'm glad Crandell was able to help you out, I too am happy for you.

 

[lesterperry]

All I can say is thanks.

This is an older photo but it is one of my favorites. Staged with about 35 coal cars.

[twhite]

Lester--Crandall--

I feel it, believe me.  I had a collection of BLI's that I eventually sold off except for one or two locomotives, but it was not because of tether problems, but because their dual-mode did not really 'play well' with my pure DC layout (I kept a couple that I was able to program down to about 4 or 5 starting volts). 

But that damned tether drove me NUTS!   Every time I had to hook up one of the locos, I thought I was going to break something, I had to push it in so forcefully.  I have tethered locos from other manufacturers (Proto, Genesis, Rivarossi, Spectrum) and the connections are extremely easy and firm.  BLI's on the other hand are real 'grunt and groaners' to connect up. 

But after the connections are solid, they really run beautifully.  Were I DCC, I'd still have most of my collection, because they are GREAT running locomotives. 

Tom    

[selector]

If there's one thing I detest, really hate, it is the sinking feeling of watching a new or an old-reliable engine start to misbehave on the tracks.  I know my tracks are clean.  I know my solders are good and that I get almost 99.9% continuity right around the track system...barring the odd point rail needing the swipe of 600 grit paper.  It was an early lesson with the BLI engines that you had to get that tether 'right' from the get-go.  All else is an exercise in frustration.  Once I knew to clench my jaw a bit as I forced the plug right to the back wall of the receptacle, any other problems were due to something else.

I am happy for you, Lester.

-Crandell

[lesterperry]

 My problem is solved. I got this reply from Crandell AKA Selector on another board.

I have answered you elsewhere, Lester, but your problem could be that your tether is not properly seated. I have had problems with BLI?PCM engines, and I often cure them by firmly seating the plug into its receiver. This is best accomplished with the aggressive use of the spread tines on needle-nosed pliers.

 

As of now it runs great. we will have to wait to see how it does tomorrow. Looks like BLI would have mentioned that or even checked it when they had it. . I didn't know it had back up light.

[lesterperry]

 This one is from Korea.

Crandall you know me from other sites , if you are interested look there for some of the other replies many of which make sence including yours I will give it a try this evening.

[rjake4454]

I had the C&O T1 at one time, the first run, or paragon series. Although it required large radii to run properly, I have to say it was one of the best engines I have ever owned. I liked the lit number boards and the whistle was haunting.

I'm pretty satisfied with all of Broadway's earlier offerings, most of which were manufactured in Korea.

I'm not a fan of Blue Line, they cut a lot of corners in making these and the quality has suffered. I have had many from this line that have not worked right out of the box.

The Paragon 2 stuff has worked better for me, but nothing will be like the originals from Korea I'm afraid.

[selector]

Lester, the first thing I do with any BLI/PCM product is to make doubly sure the connection between the tender and the engine is complete.  There is only one sure-fire way to do this in my not inconsiderable experience with several different engines from that outfit.

Step One -  place engine and tender on their sides on rolled towels to protect their details and paint.

Step Two-   using whatever means you like,  insert the plug the right way up into its receiver.

Step Three - grasping the item with the receiver firmly and securely, minding breakables, use the open tines on very thin needle-nosed pliers to press the plug home.  By that I mean to spread the tines and place one just outboard of the wire bundle so that each tine makes contact with the outer edge of the plug.  When I say press home, I mean press home.  I don't mean in a rage and try to drive the receiver back into the frame, but the plug should not want to move another thousandth of an inch when you are done.

Now place the engine on the track and see if it doesn't run better.  If that doesn't cure it, then you have an intermittent contact problem with a broken solder or a wire.   A dead decoder would not be intermittent.  It would not be dirty contacts because there are several on the engine, and at least one pair has a 90% probability of keeping your engine moving indefinitely.

I have the Pennsy version of the T-1, and that is the J1. It has been my favourite of all my BLI engines since the time I first held it.  It runs like a Swiss watch.

-Crandell

[floridaflyer]

I have a couple of  PCM T-1s and they run great. Had a problem with one and BLI fixed it(did take a while though). Initially I had the opposite problem with the lead trucks, not enough tension on the wheels, adjusted the tension bar and away it went. thinking about getting another as Reading is a road I model. 

[richg1998]

What brand of decoder is in the loco?

How does the loco run on a straight track/curved track? I know you have said not very good through turnouts.

Rich

[Flynn]

Lester,

I'm not sure what version of the T-1 you have but mine has been bang-up great.  My son even dropped it from three feet and after putting it back together, it still runs great.

The problem you had on the turnout, if I'm reading your statement correctly, is that it doesn't "track" over the frog well and will derail?  One thing I did notice in mine is that the spring on the lead truck was too tight and needed a looser spring to maintain proper contact with the track.  

As for the electronics issue, is the tender-locomotive plug gummed up in any way?  Does it seem to be a bad electrical connection somewhere or appear more of a decoder issue?

[tstage]

Lester,

I'm still trying to fill in the blanks:

• Did you purchase your T1 "DC" - i.e. without a decoder in it?  If so, did you ever try operating it on DC?  How did it run?
  
• Did you then install a decoder into your T1 or have someone else do it for you?  What kind of decoder is installed in it?
• What DCC system are you using?
  
• Have you ever adjusted any of the CVs (configuration variables) of your decoder to get your locomotive of operate more smoothly?
• Do you have any other locomotives that exhibit this similar issue?
  

My guess is that you might just need to tweak your decoder, or get a better-quality decoder - especially one with BEMF (back EMF).

Other questions for you that come to mind:

• When is the last time you cleaned your track?
• What turnouts are you using on your layout?
• How do you have your layout/turnouts presently wired - i.e. what gauge wire, how many feeders per track feet?

Answers the above questions will be beneficial in trying to diagnose the problems/issues you are having.

Tom

[ndbprr]

No intent here to antagonize you just pointing out the only commonality is your layout with two different manufacturers. Have you tried it on someone elses to eliminate your layout as the problem?

[richg1998]

Go to the BLI forums. BLI does watch the forums.

http://www.broadway-limited2.com/forum/index.php

I have a couple BLI refurbished F7's that run very well as does my PCM F3's with LokSound.

I put Tsunami's in my F7's and they consist very well with the F3's

Rich

[lesterperry]

It refuses to run correctly. When I first got it I couldn't get it through a switch / turn out. It would start and stop continuously. I have cried about this before on various sites. I was told by BLI that I needed to go with DCC as it was actually made for DCC.I have been DCC now for several years. I have problems with some things but this beast still won't run right. No easy starts it is either stop or go. It will run for couple of feet then stop.It will then go when it decides to. I think it is a beautiful locomotive but I can't use it. I guess I just got frustrated again and needed to blow off some steam. I was thinking maybe a new decoder might help It appears I am not the only one thinking this way. I will say it is my first BLI and my last. Several years ago I purchased 2 diesels (another manufacturer) that I would consider crap. It was supposed to be their top of the line. I spoke with their customer service dept.and returned it to them it was returned to me with same problem. I had a chance to speak with one of their head honchos. I told him what I thought of his product and promised not to purchase any more of them. That was probably ten years ago and I have held true to my promise. OK I feel better now.

[Allegheny2-6-6-6]

 What your dilemma? I have four PRR M1's and two E8's  and every one of them run outstandingly well and all but one were purchased used. I eventually would like to phase out most of my Spectrum's  in exchange for BLI paragon's

[tstage]

Lester,

What exactly is the problem with your T1?  How long ago did you send it into BLI to get it fixed?  Do you know what BLI did to "attempt" to fix it?  (You should have received a sheet with your T1 when it was returned to you that contains that information on it.)  Did you only send it in the one time?

I've had a couple of steamers that came with binding issues in the drivers that I sent back to the BLI backshop for repair.  My NYC Mohawk BLI completely replaced with a brand new unit.  My NYC Niagara was shimmed and works great.

If your T1 is still under warranty (you did sign up of the 2-year online warranty, yes?), I'd contact BLI again and tell them that the issue still hasn't been addressed completely.  You'll need an RA from them before sending it back in.

Hope that helps...

Tom

[wjstix]

Well my C&O 2-10-4 is one of my best engines. What exactly is the problem?? Was it one of the early ones with QSI sound decoder installed, or one of the later ones with their own sound system where you add your own decoder?? I know if it's the latter, some decoders don't work well with their sound decoder. Sometimes just putting in another decoder solves the problem.

Every company that mass produces stuff is going to have the occassional "lemon". If you're really having trouble with this engine I would expect BLI would either repair it or replace.

[Darth Santa Fe]

Broadway Limited is typically very high quality and well reviewed, but people around here have had some problems with theirs. Did BLI offer to repair your poor runner?

The T1 isn't their first attempt at high quality, but I believe it was their first higher quality model under the PCM name. In fact, BLI has always tried to make every one of their steam engines a step above the rest.

[lesterperry]

I hear a lot of praises for Broadway Limited. I own one of their junk locomotives. A C&O T1 which is one of their first attempts at quality locomotives. This is the most expensive power I own. This morning I attempted to run it again. As usual it was a lost cause. Am I the only one with BLI problems? And yes I have spoken with them and ever returned it to them.