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Wow! I thought I was onto something!

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  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Saturday, August 7, 2010 12:49 PM

 If the supplied weight is not installed you probably should install it - unlessit already stalls rather than slips under load. But it's not just toal weight - it has to be properly balanced. Too much weight on the lead or trailing truck simply reduces the weight on the drivers. Withough any weight added though, it's probably way too light - the extra weight should greatly inprove pulling power.

                                   --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: East Haddam, CT
  • 3,272 posts
Posted by CTValleyRR on Saturday, August 7, 2010 10:05 AM

Yo should try gleaming your track, which basically involves doing the same thing that the OP was referring to, but under countrolled conditions.  You use fine grit sand paper to remove crud and imperfections from the surface of the rail, then a stainless steel washer to burnish the roughness out of the track (without waiting for the passage of you scale equipment to accomplish it gradually over time).

Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford

"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • 2,751 posts
Posted by Allegheny2-6-6-6 on Friday, August 6, 2010 10:58 PM

 I've also been told that using a brite boy or brite bar which ever you prefer is not good as it opens up the surface of the metal which will cause more oxidation then normal, sorry but I ain't buying that one. In your case I guess there's only one way to find out now isn't there. I would imagine that if you run a lot of trains over that section in time it may tend to some what smooth out so to speak but hey this might not be "The correct way" but why not give that section of track a light sanding like you did every now and then? Just like dropping real sand well not exactly but you get the idea. Not sure if you tried bullfrog snot yet or not but that stuff really does work. At first I thought it was some kind of joke with a name like that but it's worth every penny in my o/p.

Just my 2 cents worth, I spent the rest on trains. If you choked a Smurf what color would he turn?
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • 776 posts
Posted by wabash2800 on Friday, August 6, 2010 10:34 PM

 

Well, John, I'm skeptical that super elevation does any good in model railroading at all other than the sex appeal and the lack of lurch at high speed...
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Riverside,Ca.
  • 1,127 posts
Posted by spidge on Friday, August 6, 2010 10:25 PM

I would think the superelevation helped reduce the lateral drag allowing for some extra pulling power to. You know how they say a curve is like a grade when it comes to pulling power.

John

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • 776 posts
Wow! I thought I was onto something!
Posted by wabash2800 on Friday, August 6, 2010 10:00 PM

The other night I was testing some new track on the layout in progress with two diesels. The track is on a super elevated curve and goes up a 2% grade. The two Genesis F7's diesels had no problem with 30 cars and a brass caboose.

Well, I had my doubts on how my brass (Hallmark) Wabash 4-8-2 would negotiate the super elevation, so I cut the 30 cars in half and coupled on the steam loco. I kicked up the throttle and it pulled the 15 cars with ease. Wait a minute! I had forgot that it could only pull 10 cars up my 2% helix in the past! So I added a few cars and tested again and again until I got to 25. That was the max but it was impressive!

I thought about it awhile and figured it out. Can you? LOL I posted this on another forum where a fellow forum member had solderd the pilot back on this loco for me. The title of my thread was: "Don, what did you do to my loco!" He jokingly replied that he used a lot of solder. LOL And no, he did not install the weight supplied in the box with the loco.

Anway, here is the answer: The code 70 Micro Engineering flex on this segment is the pre weathered kind. (I actually prefer the non weathered but had some in stock.) I had sanded off the top of the rail with a light grit sanding stick to get the shine and unwittingly provided more traction in the process. I am told by others that this increase in tractive effort is only temporary as the the rail will become smooth again soon. And I am also informed that sanding rail is not a good idea as it promotes the accumulation of dirt. Oh Darn, I thought I was onto something. I was going to provide a video on You tube and all. Dang. Dang. Dang.

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