Mike C.
Hey, thanks for all this good information. I've saved and printed it and will try all this after the weekend.
The other two engines were: M1a. It went back a number of times and was so bad I insisted they take it back. The other: J1, a nice powerful runner but had similar issues. I sold it on e-bay. There was no bounce back. Both of course were Blueline series. China may be the issue. I have a lot of non working stuff around the house with junk Chinese electronics inside. But an engine that costs well more than $300 shouldn't give this much frustration.
You're at least the second person to mention China. I'm convinced this is the problem: I have a bunch of things around the house that contain junk Chinese electronics that quit working after a short time. Thanks for the reply.
Skip
If I am not mistaken you can do a simple test the tech at BLI had me do on one of my T-1's that I was having an issue with which turned out not to be anything with the locomotive but rather and unpowered frog. I can't say for certain weather or not your l1sa is exactly the same but can't imagine it wouldn't be either.
separate the tender from the locomotive and call up the engine number and proceed to give it all the commands and see if the problem happens. Of course the locomotive isn't going to move as it's not plugged into the tender but all of the other functions with the exception of the front headlamp will work.because the tender has it's own set of pickups.
This test isolates the problem, if everything works correctly and you have no erratic sound issues like your having then the problem is not in the decoder. The next part of the test was to plug the locomotive to the tender but do not hook up the draw bar. give the loco the command to move forward and see if anything odd happens. This test is to check and see if the plug is good. The tech told me that they had some cases where the plugs were defective. If the connectors appear to be ok then there is most likely an electrical short in the locomotive it self some where. He gave me instructions what to look for if memory serves me correct there are two grounding screws on the frame that have a tendency to work themselves loose. I didn't have the need to go into mine any farther then I did and I am not that brave to be tearing into the locomotive it self.
Skip.
Check the plug from the tender to the loco. Look very carefully at it to see if there is any bits of plastic left over from the casting/molding. If its clean make sure it is well seated in the socket. I had a friends apart to fix a short. There was a wire pinched between the boiler and motor.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
The Paragon 2 Y6b has been a great runner for me. It even has a die cast boiler to boot. wonder why they did that one right in the middle of the plastic offerings.
Springfield PA
Dunno about the I1's, but the Reading T1's came in while we had out last modular show and we had about 4 of them running around, none of them had any issues. 2 of them were a little erratic and it turns out the plug was not fully seated for the tether between the loco and tender, but the primary symptom was the headlight did not come on even though the turbogenrator sound started. Definitely no random whistles or other sound effects, adn they were all nice and smooth runners.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I haven't had that issue with any mine to be honest. The newest ones "seem" more delicate though. Normally I'd be temped to crack the puppy open and start poking around for loose wires and such but these ones I honestly don't dare for fear of breaking small parts. Very odd behaviour for the decoder though. Did you ever try clearing or resetting the CVs and settings?
As much as I like BLI all but one have been a pain in the Caboose! But what they lack in QC they make up for in customer services! Have you called and talk with a staff member about your problem? They talk me through a few of my problems.
Can you read your CV's?
All of mine are older Paragon or PCM engines, and with the sound off, you can still sound the whistle, bells and such.
Good Luck, Ken
I hate Rust
PRR Skip Has anyone had trouble with engine? It looks and runs fine when it runs. Trouble is the decoder seems unstable. Its under warranty and sent back to BLI and was returned with the same erratic behavior. Whistle and or bell will sound when not asked for, even with sound shut off. Sometimes whistle will scream at max volume without stopping. When brake is used to stop engine shuts down and won't start again (even at max throttle) unless given a very slight push. Other times it stalls and goes dead, then wakes itself. I've had five BLI engines and the last two and maybe now this one, are very unsatisfactory performers. My first two, a K-4 and GG1 are gems and have given no serious problem for years. (And considering the GG1 hit a visitor's sleeve and fell to the floor). I'm using the Digitrax Zephyr for control.
Has anyone had trouble with engine? It looks and runs fine when it runs. Trouble is the decoder seems unstable. Its under warranty and sent back to BLI and was returned with the same erratic behavior. Whistle and or bell will sound when not asked for, even with sound shut off. Sometimes whistle will scream at max volume without stopping. When brake is used to stop engine shuts down and won't start again (even at max throttle) unless given a very slight push. Other times it stalls and goes dead, then wakes itself. I've had five BLI engines and the last two and maybe now this one, are very unsatisfactory performers. My first two, a K-4 and GG1 are gems and have given no serious problem for years. (And considering the GG1 hit a visitor's sleeve and fell to the floor).
I'm using the Digitrax Zephyr for control.
I had one of these engines, it had gear trouble upon arrival and it wouldn't run in reverse after a few test runs. Very frustrating. Although the I1sa was extremely detailed, I wasn't happy with how fragile it was, being made out of plastic, and several pieces snapped off when I tried to take it apart to grease it, no matter how careful I was.
Overall, I was not happy with this engine, it was later repaired and traded in for something else at my hobby shop.
Yes, the earlier Broadway releases tend to be more reliable, your K4 and GG1 were probably made in Korea. I have never had any real problems with BLI's earlier Paragon offerings. Almost everything that comes from China has given me problems.
I'm sorry to hear you are having so many issues with your engine, even after repair. I was going to suggest that the decoder might be loose, but if the Broadway staff have already checked your engine out, I don't know.
Out of curiousity, what were the other two Broadway engines giving you trouble?