Bought a Riva Big Boy at a train show about 10 years ago --Great price brand new $150
Took it home and test ran it on my 22 radius Bachmann EZ Track
Ran great but I bought it for my display cabinet since it was too large for my layout and I model my own RR
So it sat in the cabinet
With all the recent discussion about articulateds I was motivated to take it out of the cabinet and run it on my 24 radius
Just sits there and hums and neither front nor rear engines work
Tried giving it a helping hand but no go
Any suggestions ?
51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )
ME&O
Motor could be seized.
I hate to say but I have had a couple Riv motors that have rusted stuck. No way to fix it unfortunately. I tried on one and even though I had it all cleaned up there was still rust flakes that got on the magnet and did not allwow it to spin. You are going to have to remotor it if you are going to want to run it.
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Try opening it up and checking things out. You could try to spin the motor by hand. Chances are that it might just need a good cleaning with old lube removed and new grease applied.
Also make sure your current power source is compatible with it.
Springfield PA
rs2mikeI hate to say but I have had a couple Riv motors that have rusted stuck. No way to fix it unfortunately. I tried on one and even though I had it all cleaned up there was still rust flakes that got on the magnet and did not allwow it to spin. You are going to have to remotor it if you are going to want to run it.
It was in a display cabinet with a screwed down plexiglass cover and not in a basement
The other engines Kato Atlas and Proto Diesels all have been in there just as long and they run with no problems
Not sure why it is. Moisture is everywhere though, just the humidity can cause stuff to rust. I too have had older kato, atlas and athearn motors that have run good but the riv motor was all rusted up. It could aslo be what someone else suggested that the grease has hardned in the gears and needs to be cleaned and relubed. Riv tended to put a lot of grease in the gears and if it has sat as long as you said good chance that it is also hard.
I could take a look at it for you if you like. I have redone a bunch of riv engines, and could open it up and take a look at it for you. Pm me for details if you are interested.
Mike
Hamltnblue Try opening it up and checking things out. You could try to spin the motor by hand. Chances are that it might just need a good cleaning with old lube removed and new grease applied.Also make sure your current power source is compatible with it.
Got the bottom gear cover off and the old lube looks more like glue
Getting the gunk off the rest of the gears etc is going to require a more extensive effort than I think I want to try as it will be a first
I think I will see if the hobby shop in Lansdale about 20 miles from me has such a service
Probably do as I have seen them taking engines apart right at the counter and working in them
1) Don't let it sit there and hum too long. It will burn out the motor.
2) Are the wheels locked completely or do they have some play or movement if you try to rock them back & forth by hand?. If there is no play at all in either of the engines, take a look at the driving rods. It only takes a small bend or loose screw to lock them up.
leewal
UncBobHamltnblue Try opening it up and checking things out. You could try to spin the motor by hand. Chances are that it might just need a good cleaning with old lube removed and new grease applied.Also make sure your current power source is compatible with it. Got the bottom gear cover off and the old lube looks more like glue Getting the gunk off the rest of the gears etc is going to require a more extensive effort than I think I want to try as it will be a firstI think I will see if the hobby shop in Lansdale about 20 miles from me has such a service Probably do as I have seen them taking engines apart right at the counter and working in them
That would be Lin's junction I'm in there quite often. If you call ahead I'm sure Paul will put time aside to check it out while you're there. At least it can't hurt to try. You just don't want to be there when they're busy.
HamltnblueUncBobHamltnblue Try opening it up and checking things out. You could try to spin the motor by hand. Chances are that it might just need a good cleaning with old lube removed and new grease applied.Also make sure your current power source is compatible with it. Got the bottom gear cover off and the old lube looks more like glue Getting the gunk off the rest of the gears etc is going to require a more extensive effort than I think I want to try as it will be a firstI think I will see if the hobby shop in Lansdale about 20 miles from me has such a service Probably do as I have seen them taking engines apart right at the counter and working in them That would be Lin's junction I'm in there quite often. If you call ahead I'm sure Paul will put time aside to check it out while you're there. At least it can't hurt to try. You just don't want to be there when they're busy.
I emailed them 2 days ago and haven't gotten a reply
Ya know you never learn until you jump in head first. That is how I got started into repairs. I would jump in on my own stuff and go at it. What makes it a little easier is that I use a small compartmented box(like a bead box from the craft store) and store parts as I take them off in layers. Example, the outermost screws go in one compartment, then when that layer comes off the next layer of screws go in another box. Take it apart then put it right back together to remember what you did. Yeah it takes a little longer but you will learn all the details of your particular engine and will be more conifident when doing other repairs. You have a digitial camera then take pics as you progress and follow it backwords when putting it back together(restored a car that way:o)
rs2mikeYa know you never learn until you jump in head first. That is how I got started into repairs. I would jump in on my own stuff and go at it. What makes it a little easier is that I use a small compartmented box(like a bead box from the craft store) and store parts as I take them off in layers. Example, the outermost screws go in one compartment, then when that layer comes off the next layer of screws go in another box. Take it apart then put it right back together to remember what you did. Yeah it takes a little longer but you will learn all the details of your particular engine and will be more conifident when doing other repairs. You have a digitial camera then take pics as you progress and follow it backwords when putting it back together(restored a car that way:o)
Big Boy may not be the best to learn on
UncBobHamltnblueUncBobHamltnblue Try opening it up and checking things out. You could try to spin the motor by hand. Chances are that it might just need a good cleaning with old lube removed and new grease applied.Also make sure your current power source is compatible with it. Got the bottom gear cover off and the old lube looks more like glue Getting the gunk off the rest of the gears etc is going to require a more extensive effort than I think I want to try as it will be a firstI think I will see if the hobby shop in Lansdale about 20 miles from me has such a service Probably do as I have seen them taking engines apart right at the counter and working in them That would be Lin's junction I'm in there quite often. If you call ahead I'm sure Paul will put time aside to check it out while you're there. At least it can't hurt to try. You just don't want to be there when they're busy. I emailed them 2 days ago and haven't gotten a reply
They don't usually respond to emails. Give them a call.
HamltnblueUncBobHamltnblueUncBobHamltnblue Try opening it up and checking things out. You could try to spin the motor by hand. Chances are that it might just need a good cleaning with old lube removed and new grease applied.Also make sure your current power source is compatible with it. Got the bottom gear cover off and the old lube looks more like glue Getting the gunk off the rest of the gears etc is going to require a more extensive effort than I think I want to try as it will be a firstI think I will see if the hobby shop in Lansdale about 20 miles from me has such a service Probably do as I have seen them taking engines apart right at the counter and working in them That would be Lin's junction I'm in there quite often. If you call ahead I'm sure Paul will put time aside to check it out while you're there. At least it can't hurt to try. You just don't want to be there when they're busy. I emailed them 2 days ago and haven't gotten a reply They don't usually respond to emails. Give them a call.
So how come they have an Email info address on their site
First things first, the old R?R's pick up power through the tenders so the front truck picks up on rail and the rear the other a common problem and the reason many a owner has sold or gotten rid of their Rivarossi's is they have both truck picking up the same rail. try turning one of the tender trucks 180 degrees. If that doesn't work you had better be real careful before you dive into taking that critter apart, u better make sure you know what your doing, Rivarossi parts ain't easy to come by.
UncBobSo how come they have an Email info address on their site
Same reason that some people have cell-phones that they never use........Some things is more or less mandatory to have but not to use.
Before I got the new Broadband connection I didn´t check my mails for several days, it was easier to send me a regular mail back then.
Swedish Custom painter and model maker. My Website:
My Railroad
My Youtube:
Graff´s channel
GraffenUncBobSo how come they have an Email info address on their site Same reason that some people have cell-phones that they never use........Some things is more or less mandatory to have but not to use. Before I got the new Broadband connection I didn´t check my mails for several days, it was easier to send me a regular mail back then.
You are an individual Not a business with an internet site Big Difference
Bob, is this the older style with the motor in the cab, or the newer version with the boiler mounted can motor and small flanges? Those later units used a white grease that turned to cement when it dried out, so I'm guessing it's one of them. I have scans of the manual and exploded diagram, so send me a PM if you need them. Servicing these locos isn't difficult, and all you really have to do is soak the gearing in some 90% alcohol, brush them clean, and relube.
I've never heard of Rivarossi motors seizing with rust; in fact I've only seen light rusting of armatures in old units that were exposed to basement moisture. Any motor that's rusted solid has been exposed to very high humidity levels. Also, the earliest Y6b's had tender pickup, but the Big Boys never did. The number of wheels and length of the wheelbase on the Big Boy made for reliable pickup on the engine alone, especially with the lead and trailing trucks in play.
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
SteamFreak Bob, is this the older style with the motor in the cab, or the newer version with the boiler mounted can motor and small flanges? Those later units used a white grease that turned to cement when it dried out, so I'm guessing it's one of them. I have scans of the manual and exploded diagram, so send me a PM if you need them. Servicing these locos isn't difficult, and all you really have to do is soak the gearing in some 90% alcohol, brush them clean, and relube. I've never heard of Rivarossi motors seizing with rust; in fact I've only seen light rusting of armatures in old units that were exposed to basement moisture. Any motor that's rusted solid has been exposed to very high humidity levels. Also, the earliest Y6b's had tender pickup, but the Big Boys never did. The number of wheels and length of the wheelbase on the Big Boy made for reliable pickup on the engine alone, especially with the lead and trailing trucks in play.
Thanks for the offer
It will be much appreciated
New style as the cab as the detail molded in
The lube hasn't gotten to the cement stage YET but it is like day old bubble gum
Download the drawings here: http://www.mediafire.com/?owmznmhmynm
I'd forgotten I uploaded them for someone else a while ago.
Clearing that lube will probably fix you up.
I don't know why Lins doesn't respond to emails sometimes but I've sent to them and had no response, but when visiting I've asked and they did read but didn't respond, go figure. They do answer the phone though.
In the mean time try adding some plastic safe oil to the glue/old grease. It might soften it up and re-activate it.
HamltnblueIn the mean time try adding some plastic safe oil to the glue/old grease. It might soften it up and re-activate it.
Good point. I added Teflon oil & grease to mine when I got it, and the grease has never congealed.
SteamFreak Download the drawings here: http://www.mediafire.com/?owmznmhmynmI'd forgotten I uploaded them for someone else a while ago.
Got it
Thanks
Hamltnblue Clearing that lube will probably fix you up.I don't know why Lins doesn't respond to emails sometimes but I've sent to them and had no response, but when visiting I've asked and they did read but didn't respond, go figure. They do answer the phone though. In the mean time try adding some plastic safe oil to the glue/old grease. It might soften it up and re-activate it.
Maybe a couple of drops of alcohol might do it