I actually did this a few weeks ago but just now find time to put it on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVcHUq5GqOw. You may not hear at the end but the my wife at the end says "hello to everyone in train world". The distance between the two white marked ties is 12 inches, I figured it to somewheres around 5 scale mph but my math may have been off, not quite fully sure how to convert scale speed to prototype speed. The locomotive takes about 6 seconds to travel 12 inches though.
BRVRR Renegade1c BRVRRAll I have to do now is figure out a good mask so I can apply the SF red. A friend of mine (he paints all his own brass) told me to try ordinary scotch tape. It can be cut easily, doesn't bleed and is not as tacky as masking tape. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a try. I haven't had very good luck with masking tape. It stretches too much and often distorts the mask. At least the Scotch tape shouldn't stretch. Thanks again.
Renegade1c BRVRRAll I have to do now is figure out a good mask so I can apply the SF red. A friend of mine (he paints all his own brass) told me to try ordinary scotch tape. It can be cut easily, doesn't bleed and is not as tacky as masking tape. Just my 2 cents.
BRVRRAll I have to do now is figure out a good mask so I can apply the SF red.
A friend of mine (he paints all his own brass) told me to try ordinary scotch tape. It can be cut easily, doesn't bleed and is not as tacky as masking tape. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a try. I haven't had very good luck with masking tape. It stretches too much and often distorts the mask. At least the Scotch tape shouldn't stretch.
Thanks again.
Ordinary Scotch tape is fine for paint masking, as long as you add two additional steps in its use.
Firstly, as it comes from the roll, Scotch tape is really a bit too sticky and has a tendency to lift bits of the paint underneath it when removed, unless the paint has been baked on to the brass model. This difficulty can be overcome by first applying the tape to a clean sheet of glass and then removing it, thus reducing its stickiness prior to applying it to the model.
Secondly, in removing the tape after painting, lift one corner and slowly bring the edge around to a point where it is at a very obtuse angle (say 150* or so) with where it was and then slowly pull. This will dramatically limit the area of stress the underlying paint is subject to and results in a greatly reduced tendency for any paint to lift. This same approach is good when using masking tape as well.
For my own model painting I like to employ striping tape, which by its nature tends to avoid a lot of the problems encountered when using masking, or Scotch tape.
CNJ831
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
Renegade1c THayman Yes, but doesn't scotch tape often have a nasty habit of tearing off the paint underneath? I've never tried it for masking, but I know if you put something up on the wall with scotch tape and leave it up for a little while, it often takes some of the paint or other finish with it. I suppose if it were only on the model very briefly it might not be such a concern. I had no problem with this happening. I never left the tape on longer than it had to. I also let the model dry a full 24 hours between coats and color changes. My friend that suggested the tape also bakes the model to ensure complete drying of the paint (he uses scale coat II, I use Floquil). I have never left the tape longer than 24 hours and generally remove the masking with a few hours. this gives the paint enough time to dry but it is not yet fully cured. Also Surface prep is very important. I scrubbed model in vinegar with an old tooth brush to make sure any oil and grime were not on it. These, generally, are what cause paint to peel. This is an example that I used scotch tape to mask. Its a fairly simple paint job but it had quite a few nooks and crannies to mask off.
THayman Yes, but doesn't scotch tape often have a nasty habit of tearing off the paint underneath? I've never tried it for masking, but I know if you put something up on the wall with scotch tape and leave it up for a little while, it often takes some of the paint or other finish with it. I suppose if it were only on the model very briefly it might not be such a concern.
Yes, but doesn't scotch tape often have a nasty habit of tearing off the paint underneath? I've never tried it for masking, but I know if you put something up on the wall with scotch tape and leave it up for a little while, it often takes some of the paint or other finish with it. I suppose if it were only on the model very briefly it might not be such a concern.
I had no problem with this happening. I never left the tape on longer than it had to. I also let the model dry a full 24 hours between coats and color changes. My friend that suggested the tape also bakes the model to ensure complete drying of the paint (he uses scale coat II, I use Floquil). I have never left the tape longer than 24 hours and generally remove the masking with a few hours. this gives the paint enough time to dry but it is not yet fully cured. Also Surface prep is very important. I scrubbed model in vinegar with an old tooth brush to make sure any oil and grime were not on it. These, generally, are what cause paint to peel.
This is an example that I used scotch tape to mask. Its a fairly simple paint job but it had quite a few nooks and crannies to mask off.
That's a sweet looking McKeen Motorcar.Nice paint job.Here's a shot of My brass McKeen Motorcar,I painted it and it was My first brass item I painted.
wedudler I'm busy with a LaBelle combine kit: More pictures at my HowTo site.Wolfgang
I'm busy with a LaBelle combine kit:
More pictures at my HowTo site.
Wolfgang
I forgot how nice these kits look.
Peter Smith, Memphis
THaymanYes, but doesn't scotch tape often have a nasty habit of tearing off the paint underneath? I've never tried it for masking, but I know if you put something up on the wall with scotch tape and leave it up for a little while, it often takes some of the paint or other finish with it. I suppose if it were only on the model very briefly it might not be such a concern.
Colorado Front Range Railroad: http://www.coloradofrontrangerr.com/
Renegade1cBRVRRAll I have to do now is figure out a good mask so I can apply the SF red. A friend of mine (he paints all his own brass) told me to try ordinary scotch tape. It can be cut easily, doesn't bleed and is not as tacky as masking tape. Just my 2 cents.
-Tim
G PaineKen, lets make those links work - gotta hear the sound, turn up the volume!! But way too short, only 30 seconds??
That it, 30 seconds. Old digital, only 3.2 megapixel. Hard to believe it was a steal in its day at $299.99?
I all so want to tank you all for not complaining about how many pictures I posted. I won't be posting any more for a while.
Far as the Y6 b, it will track fine around tighter turns, 22 inch will not be a problem. It not as big as you would think. It just a little bigger than the Class J, around a inch.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
MAbruceI liked the way it sat low and was built on a curve. As I like to model what I call 'the spaces between' (rural areas outside of the typical populated places people like to model), it seemed a natural fit to traverse a pond that I planned to build.
That looks a lot like some of the areas outside of Norfolk VA / Tidewater region. I used to live in Norfolk and drove back and forth between DC and Norfolk more times than I can count-- and you've captured that look very well.
John
I'm still busy with my combine kit:
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
Well last week I finally found the Pot Topper's many of You were talking about. And today I went to a Train Show in Hooksett New Hampshire put on by the Lion's Club. While browsing the tables I found a set of 6 American Bison by Rustic Rails.They are unpainted white metal castings.I also bought a PFE reefer by Athearn. Anyway I found some unused real estate and planted a field using the Pot Topper and painted 3 of the Bison and placed them in the field.I still have to tie in the field somehow with the other ground cover and add a fence...
The Bison pay no attention to Great Western #60 as she hauls a load of sugar Beets past the field...
Tried to post this earlier but noticed only red x's hope this one posts. A photo of some stock and kitbashed CFD firetrucks that i'm working on.
San Dimas Southern slideshow
Cuda Ken; thank you for the return. A quick look won't do for your layout. I still remember those Y6bsshaking the ground as they passed with 100 cars of coal. Az. Jim
Y6bs evergreen in my mind
Great work as always everybody!
I just recently finished work on my first ever resin kit, an old Rapido Trains LRC coach kit. I painted and decaled it as VIA 1 Club car 3475. I painted the car with TrueLine Trains VIA/CN paints, and added Rapido's LRC decals. Overall, I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.
I have two more kits that I will be building as Coach cars. I hope to have them done in the next month or so, so I'll finally have an LRC consist for my P42s to haul.
cudaken Few poor quality videos, first is the Big Boy. Thanks Terry from Texas! http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j284/cudaken/WPFun/?action=view¤t=BBsound.flv Now the Y 6 b! http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j284/cudaken/WPFun/?action=view¤t=Y6onmine.flv
http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j284/cudaken/WPFun/?action=view¤t=BBsound.flv
Now the Y 6 b!
http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j284/cudaken/WPFun/?action=view¤t=Y6onmine.flv
Ken, lets make those links work - gotta hear the sound, turn up the volume!! But way too short, only 30 seconds??
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Looking good :) By the way how does the Y6b handle 22 inch curves? I'm looking at picking up a Paragon 2 version and they say it'll work with 18 inch. Would it look dumb on 22 inch?
Springfield PA
OK I am being bad, but what going to happen, I get kicked off?
Close up of the Y 6 b.
Then I brought out the Big Boy!
It is a PCM with a Loksound 3.5 decoder. In this picture it has a 45 car coal drag behind it with no effort.
Close up of old 4022
Few poor quality videos, first is the Big Boy. Thanks Terry from Texas!
Cuda Ken post way to much again.
I am in one of those moods to post pictures, these are second rate but still not that bad.
We will start at the mine.
Foreman shack and a old steam engine.
Next a Monon BL 2.
Next is the Wynne (is that spelled right) that goes under K-10 mining. Never have wired it for some reason?
View from the top of K-10 mining mountain, shows some of the ugly stuff.
This view shows the portals going to the mine. Note Deerzilla on the other hill. My daughter bought it for Christmas a few years back. It is O gauge.
OK, think I am done, but then again?
Post way to much Cuda Ken
LMAO well tell them good job and give them a raise
HamltnblueExcellent shots
Why thank you Hamltnble ! I was rather happy with them.
Cobwebs where modeled, but I did hire real spiders to make them for me! They work cheap as well and are for hire!
Excellent shots Are those cobwebs near the roof of the tunnel?
Have some more to share. I all wise shoot from the same spot and I am sure you are getting bored with it. So today I am trying some different angles.
Mine at dawn.
Then with a slower shutter speed, where did that pink come from?
Few of a Erie Built coming with a coal train.
Elevator spur from the mill. Seems we have a derail hopper, crew going to hate that!
Then toward the yard.
And not one shoot of out door carpet!
Thanks for looking, Cuda Ken
Great work so far guys. Keep it up.
Here is my latest project. An Athearn BB FP-45. It started out in Milwaukee Road colors but will soon be in Santa Fe Warbonnet as #5945. It will be a running mate with #5941 and my SF passenger consist. All I have to do now is figure out a good mask so I can apply the SF red.
This is always the best thread of the week. Keep the photos and videos coming!
jwhittenThat is Sweeeet! Very nice. How did you do the lake / trestle scene? I'd love to hear more about what you did to make that scene.John
Thanks! My trestle pond was inspired by this:
http://photos.nerail.org/s/?p=71268
I liked the way it sat low and was built on a curve. As I like to model what I call 'the spaces between' (rural areas outside of the typical populated places people like to model), it seemed a natural fit to traverse a pond that I planned to build. Here are some progress shots during it's construction:
The trestle itself was made of base wood strips (round and square) and utilized a simple trestle construction style. All the timber was spray painted in flat dark brown (camo-brown) and then faded a bit with a pastel white oil crayon. ME bridge flex track was used (one whole section).
The water is a painted flat surface using shades of acrylic dark earth tone paints (resembling a springtime look). I then topped it with several thin coats acrylic gloss medium, using the brush strokes to build up a ripple effect.
I still have work to do, adding in more details and then guard rails (which is going to be tricky on that curve).
I'm not sure if my methods were necessarily the best to use. Much of it was trying to keep cost down while using materials and methods that I was already familiar with. I have no illusions that it's anything really special when compared to a lot of other modelers work on this forum, but it's the most intricate bridge I've ever built.
A couple of photos of some stock and kitbashed CFD fire trucks.
Nice work this weekend everyone!
roads in North Branch have finally been paved. now just need to paint them.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
joe27This is my first picture post. Hopefully it will come up OK. You guys are very impressive with your amazing craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Nice modeling Joe, post more when you can.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/