What is your preferred roadbed/track system?

[Anonymous]

Hey gang,

The only experience I have is with Bachmann E_Z track (nickel silver).

Its the ONE Bachmann product I am very impressed with, I like
the "locks" on the ends of the roadbed (of course I can saw
them off to mesh with regular flex).

I am surprised that Bachmann came out with such a good product,
although the first batch wasn't nickel silver.

Has anyone used that vinyl roadbed material I always seen advertised in MR? Or what about the Woodland scenics roadbed products?
I would love to hear comments on these products (I have never
seen an MR article on them before). I would like to steer away
from cork roadbed for my flex track sections.


Regards,

(Working in HO)

Tom M.

[Anonymous]

i used the woodland scenics roadbed on my little module and i love it. i am going to use it on all future layouts. i just glued it down with liquid nails, then glued the track to the roadbed with th same stuff. it works really well and it keeps the noise down.

i have a large loop of the Bachmann eztrack running around the floor of my bedroom so that i have a place to test the trains before my layout is built. i havent had any problems with it.


check the last page on my website at www.akpierce.20m.com for a few pictures of the module i built with the WS foam roadbed

[EL PARRo]

I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, although if I had to start all over again, I'd use more traditional cork because the foam doesn't hold spikes or nails very well at all.

For track, I use Atlas flex track with Micro Engineering #6 turnouts on the mainline and Walthers #4 turnouts elsewhere, all of which is code 83.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by EL PARRo

I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, although if I had to start all over again, I'd use more traditional cork because the foam doesn't hold spikes or nails very well at all.

It is not supposed to, cork doesn't hold them much better - if you want to use spike, use Homasote®, Homabed® or clear soft pine.

My preference is WS Foambed® with Aleene's Original Tacky Glue®, becasue you can take it apart later - unlike Liquid Nails. It is not as strong as liquid nails, but plenty strong for MR use, and compliant, unlike standard white or yellow glue.

[newhavenguy]

I use 1/2" plywood sub roadbed then Homabed or Homasote then the New Atlas Flex w/brown ties and small spike heads with Walthers switches.

[BRAKIE]

That will depend on the type of layout I am building..For heavy duty main lines and branch lines I use cork and spike my track in place..For Urban industrial switching layouts I just spike my track to Homasote since I want want that lightly maintain track look..[:D]

[Roadtrp]

I use Bachmann EZ track on my 'N' scale layout and have been very happy with it. For a beginner like me, I think it is the only way to go.

[Anonymous]

Well, being new to the hobby and building my first layout, I don't know any better. But I like cheap stuff that works. On my mainline that curves around with changes in grade, I use 1/2" inch blue/pink foam insulation board, glued to OSB with poyurethane spray foam (the kind that is meant to fill holes and cracks). On flat areas, where I use foam insulation board on top of 14" plywood, I use white 1/4" presentation foam board (Office Depot) on top of the insulation board. I simply cut it with a box cutter in the shape of the track and glue it to the blue/pink insulation board with polyurethane spray foam. I use 'concrete' silicone caulk (Home Depot) to glue track down in both cases and embed the ballast directly into the caulk after I lay the track. Polyurethane spray foam can also be used to glue track down and it dries clear if not laid down in excess. It is the stickiest stuff I have found and I have used it routinely to glue pieces of 2" foam insulation board together. When cured, the bond will not break between two pieces of blue/pink poly foam. Caution: wear gloves if you use this stuff. You can't get it off your skin.
Bottom line: A super quiet system. I ran trains for the first time last night. All I heard was clickity-clack over the switches!
Bryant

[Anonymous]

Hello fans.

I am just getting into model railroads with my 9 year old son. We are using Kato track and locomotives. Kato is high quality and is very easy to use. One important reason that I chose Kato is because everything is metric. I cannot bear the thought of measuring in obsolete American measurements. The straight track is in lengths of 248 millimeters or multiples of 62 millimeters. The curves are made with multiple track centers of 33 millimeters. The one problem I have had is with the crossovers that I made with two number 4 turnouts. The trains derail in the crossovers with number 4 turnouts although the number 4 turnouts work okay as long as they are not used in crossovers. i don't think there is enough straight track between the two turnouts or they do not line up correctly when they are used as a crossover. Kato makes a double crossover which I understand works very good and I am planning to try that. The number 6 turnouts work much better than the number 4 turnouts but you cannot use them with 33 millimeter track centers.

[Anonymous]

For lightweight modules prefer cork, over 1/2 blue foam over spline subroadbed. With a frame made of Luan plywood strips, I can keep a 4x2 ft module under 10 pounds. [:D][^][:)][8D][:D]

[Anonymous]

Hey TW, Oops, wrong forum, I mean NightCrawler, You"re lookin good old Friend, Very nice pics indeed, keep em coming.


Mac

[Catt]

I use PECO code 55 track and turnouts and Midwest cork roadbed.
Everybody I know in the model railroad hobby that has tried the foam has ripped it up and tossed it.
I myself have never used the foam and never will.

[Anonymous]

Midwest cork roadbed all the way!!
As far as track.. good ol Atlas code 100. I'd love to change to code 83 now but i have a HUGE amount of flex, switches and misc. so rather than spend $300 for new track for my new layout i'm reusing my old stuff.

Jeff

[Anonymous]

For integrated track/roadbed, nothing beats Fleischmann Profi-track. It's has low-profile roadbed, a very heavily thought out grid design, extremely good quality and it's easily connected to standard track (Since the height differential is only about 3-4mm). It's a bit more costly than the Kato stuff, but only the Kato can come close to its quality.

I used to use it, now I'm using Atlas Code 100 on Woodland Scenics roadbed, but my current 4x8 will soon be torn down in favour of a modular shelf layout, where I'll be using code 83 and 70 track, not sure what brands though. I'm thinking Micro Engineering or Shinohara for the code 70 and Walthers or Peco for the COde 83.

[Anonymous]

Tom M--- keep it simple---1/2 inch plywood, 1/2 inch homasote, atlas flex (brown ties)
and cork roadbed.
Important--- make sure that wheve you need to connect flex-track that you are not on a curve. Make all track connections on the straight run.

lot's of luck-- Jim

[Anonymous]

Quick, somebody tell me what the disadvantage to using 1/2" foam insulation roadbed might be before I lay any more. So for, my trains run ok on it. Does it disintegrate over time, or what?
Bryant
p.s. here is a picture of foam roadbed on OSB, with track glued down using grey caulk.

[orsonroy]

On my last layout, I used cork roadbed and Atlas code 83 track. Possibly HO scale hobby standard. It's reliable and inexpensive, so long as you sand the top of the cork smooth before laying track.

Between basements, I used Bachmann EZ Track. Besides the too many rail joints, it worked just fine (and it's not the only good thing I'VE seen from Bachmann; I've got ten of the Spectrun steamers!)

Now, I'm using Peco code 75 track and homemade roadbed, using 1/2" foam insulation sheets. I can get 150 linear feet of roadbed for a whopping $9 and about 1/2 hour's work, and it behaves just like cork.

[AggroJones]

My layout being destroyed has about half WS foam roadbed and half cork. In this upcoming layout, there will be NO foam! I'm throwing that crap in the garbage. I'm going with all cork this time. It's tried and true. Easier to bend, it lays flat, and is quieter than WS foam roadbed (regardless of what WS advertisements say!).

GO CORK!

[Anonymous]

Good old fashion Atlas Code 100 Snap Track with good old, cheap, unmodified, no-name cork roadbed. Doesn't look all that bad once it's painted and ballasted.

[Anonymous]

Bachmann EZ track.

[Anonymous]

Central Valley tie strips glued to Midwest cork, glued over homasote, glued to 1/2" plywood for flat areas or spline for curves.

[AggroJones]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bryant01

Quick, somebody tell me what the disadvantage to using 1/2" foam insulation roadbed might be before I lay any more. So for, my trains run ok on it. Does it disintegrate over time, or what?
Bryant
p.s. here is a picture of foam roadbed on OSB, with track glued down using grey caulk.

I've never seen that done before! I don't know what to tell you. But if you do change it, go with cork.

Today, I finished cleaning off the last of my cork from the previous layout. YAYYYYYY! I salvaged it all, in good condition too.

[Eriediamond]

For more years then I care to state, I've always used what I was taught and that was track on cork roadbed, on homesote, on plywood base. My future layout will be code 83 track directly on foam sub base on 5/8 plywood base. All glued with Aleens glue. If I were to use a roadbed I would still use cork. The type railroad I"m modeling, I don't want that well maintained mainline, high volume traffic look. The tie height itself will give enough roadbed appearance and the foam sub bed will allow me but but drainage ditches in easy enough where needed.

[Anonymous]

Atlas code 100, spiked with nails, over cork. I just completed a new layout this winter, and after many MR articles and reading all of the past posts in this forum, cork seems to be the best choice. I like its easy workability. My only problem was with the plywood subroad bed. It didn't realize I had to different thicknesses of plywood until after I had laid a few feet of track. Thank God it is on the hidden staging part!

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AggroJones

QUOTE: Originally posted by bryant01

Quick, somebody tell me what the disadvantage to using 1/2" foam insulation roadbed might be before I lay any more. So for, my trains run ok on it. Does it disintegrate over time, or what?
Bryant
p.s. here is a picture of foam roadbed on OSB, with track glued down using grey caulk.

I've never seen that done before! I don't know what to tell you. But if you do change it, go with cork.

Today, I finished cleaning off the last of my cork from the previous layout. YAYYYYYY! I salvaged it all, in good condition too.

I'm using 1/2" foam as a roadbed, glued onto a 2" foam base. Everything's held up just fine for the year or so that my initoal benchwork's been up. Frankly, the only thing I see that's "wrong" with your foam roadbed are your sides. You need to use a sharp blade and long, even cuts to keep the bottom edge from getting knobby like that.

[ATSFCLIFF]

I have used Peco flexi track, Peco turnouts and Midwest cork roadbed for the present and previous layouts. Easy installation, easy wiring, quiet and looks good.

[darth9x9]

I use Homabed on Homasote on spline. The Homabed is a little more costly but the end result is awesome. I make sure the Homabed/Homasote is completely sealed. Usually with a flat gray latex on the top and sides with glue on the bottom (to hold it to the spline). Allen Keller's GMR video series #12 of Howard Zane's layout has a great clinic on how to do spline quickly and easily. Last fall, I had the opportunity to get lessons from the master himself and put in spline for his second edition to his railroad. Two of us installed roughly 40 feet of spline (for two tracks) in less than 3 hours.

Here is a picture of a module I sceniced in three weekends. It shows the final result of the roadbed profile:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/scenery/185%20Ballast.jpg

The whole basic scenery clinic can be seen at:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/basic_scenery.htm

to show how the benchwork started (yes, there is spline under the tracks on the homosote).

[Anonymous]

Atlas Code 83 with Atlas Turnouts laid on Cork roadbed

[Anonymous]

Here is a picture of spur tracks being laid on 1/4 "foam-backed poster board.
The poster board is glued down with the urethane foam spray shown. The track will be glued down with caulk. Gives really quiet operation.

[MudHen_462]

I am going with Bachmann E-Z track.... I would really prefer to use Peco, but my layout is 81" X 78", and is only open to the front side, with the other three sides butted up against the wall. It is so tight trying to lay track in that small of a space, I just thought that E-Z track was the answer.