All the different Kadee numbers were introduced to fit any HO model ever produced. Although with enough hacking and filing and shimming a #5 can be made to fit anything, it's easier to check the Kadee what-fits-what list and use the Kadee recommended coupler. There are enough variations of length head height, conductive and non conductive, and coupler box to fit anything.
The "scale size" Kadee coupler looks better but requires greater care in standardizing coupler height than the regular sized Kadee. I haven't bought any of the whisker couplers yet, but they ought to make installation (or re installation) a tad easier.
Last time I looked, the clone knuckle couplers were no cheaper than the genuine Kadee. In which case might as well use the real thing. My policy on clone couplers is to run them until they break, then replace them with Kadees. The clones with a molded plastic finger for a knuckle closing spring don't last very long. The ones with a metal coil spring are better.
You do want to buy or make a coupler height gage. You will find that all the Athearn traditional cars need washers under the trucks to jack the couplers up to the correct height. The Kadee gladhand is carefully made at the factory. If you find the gladhands riding too low, it's a sure bet that the entire coupler is low. Check height before bending gladhands.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Bryan
Kadee has an application guide, look up the manufacturer and car and it will give you what to use if you've made no modifications to the original car. That is, if you have cars that still have talgo, truck mounted couplers, then you would use the coupler for that application. However, if you've body mounted the couplers (which most modelers recommend) then you would have to use a different type, most likely with an undershank coupler to make up for the height difference unless you also lowered the car too. The numbers relate to series and represent things like short, regular or long shank or over, regular or undershank (to raise or lower the coupler head).
The scale head couplers, #58 (centering spring) and #158 (whisker) are closer to scale size and in my opinion, look nicer than the more common #5 (centering spring) and #148 (whisker). All Kadees, scale or origianl size, will couple to each other so they can be mixed and matched. Very helpful for those of us that started converting to Kadees 25 years ago and converting all the newer cars to scale couplers!
I pretty much just use the #148 scale whiskers but there are some applications, especially locomotives, that call for something else.
Last bit of advice, get yourself the the coupler height guage as it will prevent some heartache further down the line!
Ricky
Bryan ask:
What is the more common or realistic knuckle coupler for HO scale or is it a matter of choice?
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First its a modelers choice..
Now then for a realistic looking coupler your choice would be the Sergent coupler...You use a uncoupling wand to uncouple these couplers..
http://www.sergentengineering.com/
However,the majority of advance modelers still perfer KD's #58 or #158 scale couplers..
I am in the camp that still prefers #5s or #148s.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
To my way of thinking the KaDee #5 is the most common coupler in HO.That said there are several scale/semi-scale couplers that KaDee makes if your fussy about the size of your couplers.
I am just getting back into HO in a serious manner and I will be using the semi scale KaDee's in my cars and rolling stock.There are other brands of usable couplers in HO but the KaDee's seem to be the most available (a plus in my book).
As for differences in the couplers it is mostly a matter of being able to line the couplers up properly which means certain cars need a certain offset to do just that that.Some locos need a coupler with a longer shank to clear snow plows and the like plus on sharper curves the longer shank will help the cars stay on the rails.
Hope this is some help to ya.
I was recently looking at the Kadee website and was overwhelmed by all the different coupler choices. I am modeling HO scale. I have been collecting trains for several years but just recently started building a layout. In the process of building I have decided to spend so time on my locomotives and rolling stock and bring them up operational standards. The majority of my collection has the old horn hook couplers. In the process of doing some maintanence on collection I will be changing all couplers to Kadee knuckle couplers. I have 2 questions:
What is the difference in all the different numbered Kadee couplers? (besides the whiser and standard shank, and shank position.)
Thanks