im goin code 83 ho track on my railroad and sellin off the 100. the hobby shop salesman said peco switch tracks are put together rock solid but said you gotta be careful which one you pick for dcc but hes not sure which is the best one. insulfrog and electrofrog. anybody here know?
I have both on my layout but prefer the electrofrog because the short wheel base switchers
tend not to stall on them like they do on the insulfrogs
I had 4 leftover insulfrog turnouts from a previous layout
and should have replaced them with electrofrogs
Live and learn
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
I agree with C&O. Insulfrog switches have a dead spot which is problematic for short wheelbase locos. Electrofrogs do not. Some people are intimidated by the need to gap the rails leading from the electrofrog, but that is so easy it should not be an issue. An alternative is a device called a "Frog Juicer." It provides power to the dead areas of an insulfrog switch. Someone recommended it a few weeks ago, so I bought one and it works very well. The juicer not only powers the frog, it also instantly changes polarity as needed to prevent short circuits. No gapping necessary. It is faster than a DCC circuit breaker, so trains run through without hesitation. For $69.95 you can wire six switches with the Juicer. Here is a link for more info:
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/hex-frog-juicer-automatic-frog-polarity-switcher-p-8579.php
If I buy new switches they will be electrofrog, but rather than replace already installed insulfrog switches I will add Juicers.
Tim
Go with the insulfrog turnouts. not only are they easier to install without special wiring but the dead spot is relativity a minor flaw as most locomotives these days pick up power from both sets of trucks so one truck will always pick up the power from the rails as the other truck crosses the dead spot. The insulfrog is also "DCC friendly" in that, if a train enters an open turnout it won't short out the entire layout or power district. The disadvantage is that the train will keep moving across the open turnout which usually ends up in a derailment.
The electro frog turnouts need special wiring and insulated rail gaps with a toggle switch or a relay involved because the frog rail has to be powered from the left or right rail depending on which track you plan to take. Also, the electro frog turnout is not "DCC friendly" in that if a train enters an open turnout, it will stop the locomotive before entering the open turnout which in turn will short out the entire layout or power district....chuck
I can only go by my experience, but here it is...I run large steam and large diesels. Except for two items in each category, that is. I have a small P2K Heritage USRA 0-6-0 switcher and a P2K SW8 diesel switcher. The only one of those two that can't negotiate any of my Peco Insulfrog Code 83 #6 turnouts is the SW8 because it came with traction tires installed on one of its four axles. It was effectively a dead duck, but Walthers kindly shipped me a complimentary metal tire axle set and now it goes anywhere on my layout without a hitch. That includes my longer Fast Tracks #8 turnouts with dead frogs.
So, I am in complete agreement with Chuck. Simple as laying it in place and sliding joiners...bang, you're done.
-Crandell
Yep Both Chuck and Crandell are correct the insulfrog turn outs are Quicker and easier to install
and while it's true > MOST< newer locos have all wheel pickup Not >ALL < do
My Life Like 0-8-0 Non Sound version had no tender pick ups so i had to install tender pickups
so it would go thru the Insulfrogs Which took a whole lot more time than installing an electrofrog
Yes it takes just a bit more time Maybe 10 min to gap the rails on the electrofrogs
{I have never had to do any extra wiring}
but what you get as a bonus and something i find very useful is power routing
If you place the rail gaps one loco length away from the turn out
you can't run thru a closed turn out because the loco stops
when it runs onto the dead section of track
in essence you end up with an idiot proof turn out and far fewer derails
Don't ask me how i know this
Also you can run your loco on to a dead end siding and put it to sleep just by throwing the turn out back to the main
No other switches needed !
It really is a toss up but with Electrofrogs you can run >ANY< loco with out worrys of
stalling
Here's a good How To Install Electrofrog Pecos
http://www.loystoys.com/peco/about-electrofrog.html
Both types of turnouts are useful, but in different situations. If you're running short wheelbase locomotives, then you'll definitely want to use the electrofrogs. If all you'll be running is larger 4- and 6-axle (or more!) locomotives that do have pickup on all wheels, you might just find the insulfrogs fit your needs better.
For example, my clubs (permanent layout and modular) both use insulfrogs now. We discovered that relying on the points for electrical contact through the switch was iffy at best once the track was painted and ballasted. the insulfrog turnouts allow you to run jumper wires from the stock (outside) rails to the frog rails. Since the frog rails have no electrical contact with each other, the jumper wires will keep electrical contact between the frog rail and its corresponding stock rail. With the electrofrog, you can't put a jumper wire in, or when you throw the switch you'll end up with a short circuit. With electrofrog, you either have to rely on the points for electrical contact, use an external set of electrical contacts such as on the tortoise switch machine, or do as Terry suggests and cut gaps in all of the rails on either side of the frog. For our modules, it was decided that since we'd only have to reach over about 2' to reach any of them, and to simplify the wiring, no switch machines were necessary. All of our Peco turnouts are fully manual, and all Insulfrog with jumper wires, and we haven't had any difficulties with locomotives stalling on the switches at all.
Robert Beaty
The Laughing Hippie
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The CF-7...a waste of a perfectly good F-unit!
Then it comes to be that the soothing light at the
end of your tunnel, Was just a freight train coming
your way. -Metallica, No Leaf Clover
Hi,
As far I am concerned for me and looking at great layouts, including the ones whith handlaid track, all use "electrofrog" turnouts.
I think and it's my opinion, beside some special wiring they pay well worth this effort.
All steam or diesel loco's need as much as possible contact whith the track for electrical continuity and a "dead frog" is dead from electricity.
At slow speed or in a ladder whith mutiple dead frog your engine could be dead....So you have the answer about why using electrofrog turnouts
I have used myself Nscale Peco electrofrog turnouts in code 55 and whith some gap in the rail they run flawlessy whith even tiny locomotives.
All Peco electrofrog turnouts come whith a schematic about the connection; if you don't want to make gap use insulated plastic joiner for the adjacent rails, also sold by Peco
Even I don't use them for now the last ones where modified to be DCC friendly.
I isolate the frog by making a cut in the wing rails and just after the frog like Fastrack Turnouts to completely isolate the frog; I also solder two small jump wires to give electrical continuity to the now isolate rails point.
All the "dead electrical" points are....dead!
The frog is powered by a contact from the switch motor;just put the turnout in a pin vise and cut the rail whith a jeweler saw, you can learn more about this method on www.handlaidtrack.com
About more of electrical continuity for DCC turnouts take a look at http://www.wiringfordcc.com they speak about Peco turnouts.
I firmly beleive for a good running layout in the use of live frog.
Good luck.
Marc
so much obliged to you men. your good infomation makes it tuff to decide. but my ho engines pickup on all the wheels. my shortest engine is a atlas gp7. im goin with insulfrog.
got some code 83 flex tracks. i like how it looks becuase. the metal rails and track ties are skinny. it looks a lot more like the real thing just like the peco switch tracks. trains look bigger on these.