On my bench it the section has not been ran for some time I use one as a pusher and 2 in drag.
Ken and thanks again
I hate Rust
http://www.ecomade.com/product_info.php/products_id/30
Rail sides can always be painted, too.
After cleaning try some crc electrical contact cleaner. It leaves a protective film that is conductive and reduces the time between cleanings.
Springfield PA
HI Ken- Little trick when using a track cleaning car- Push it with the engine, don't pull it..
Flip
I think we are going to be fine with the brass we have to start with. We will use the NS in the hard to reach spots and the brass in the easy spots. Plus, with flex track being cheap, the brass will be replaced as needed when the time comes.
I all plan to give Jeremy one of my track cleaning cars, I have three of them.
I have used contact cleaner on my turnouts to clean the points. I like the idea of cleaning the track with it.
Thanks for all the help folks!
Cuda Ken
What the nay sayers need to realize this person Jeremy is getting into the hobby on the cheap by the generosity of others and because he has a good friend like Ken to help him out. Sp dispense with the replacing track ideas and all that other useless advice. I know from past experience there are a lot of different ways to clean track and some members have given good suggestions I myself thik you should look into building a John Allen type cleaning car using a piece of Masonite on the bottom to rub on the rails and make it part of all the trains run on the railroad.
'Cuda and others , here we go knocking brass, and some of you have never used it, there are thousands of us out here that use brass, just clean it like ALL rail should be cleaned, stay away from abrasives as it will leave fine scratches in the metal, clean with a Brass polish for a shine and then clean with with methyl hydrate or the like. stop knocking brass.
IVRWAs several have already said, brass oxidizes fast!. So I think the best way to to keep track clean is to replace the brass with Nickel Silver if track has moves out of gauge anywhere.
The assumption here is the brass track will be used, not discarded. Keeping brass clean is no harder than it is with nickel silver. The key to it is using a cleaner that leaves a protective film behind, which is why I recommed electrical contact cleaner, it is specificaly made to clean and protect electrical switch contacts which are often made of brass. I have used in exclusively since 1982 and can witness to the fact it actualy cleans brass track and promotes electrical contact with locos while providing a corrosion resistant coating. If it can keep the electrical contacts of the Lucas electric system on my Triumph working, then it will certainly work on a model train.
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
~G4
19 Years old, modeling the Cowlitz, Chehalis, and Cascade Railroad of Western Washington in 1927 in 6X6 feet.
cacoleSeeking advice from old timers ? -- Okay, here's some from an old geezer -- I retired from the Army in 1986 and don't remember the exact name of the product, but there was a brass polish solvent soaked cloth used for military uniform brass that could be purchased at the PX. I think it was called a "Flitz" cloth. This was much easier to use than Brasso, which was a liquid in a can that had to be applied and then buffed off after it dried. Try some jewelry polish if your wife has some. This usually comes in a glass or plastic jar and is either a liquid or jell solution that you would rub on and then buff off. I don't know about electrical conductivity, but the jewelry polish would leave a slight protective film on the rail. Something you surely have around the garage, Ken, is mag wheel cleaner. Give it a try.
Seeking advice from old timers ? -- Okay, here's some from an old geezer --
I retired from the Army in 1986 and don't remember the exact name of the product, but there was a brass polish solvent soaked cloth used for military uniform brass that could be purchased at the PX. I think it was called a "Flitz" cloth. This was much easier to use than Brasso, which was a liquid in a can that had to be applied and then buffed off after it dried.
Try some jewelry polish if your wife has some. This usually comes in a glass or plastic jar and is either a liquid or jell solution that you would rub on and then buff off. I don't know about electrical conductivity, but the jewelry polish would leave a slight protective film on the rail.
Something you surely have around the garage, Ken, is mag wheel cleaner. Give it a try.
Although everyone that ever put on a pair of GI boots knows what Brasso is Flitz works well but not as well as "Never Dull" just be sure to go over it with a clean rag when your done. If it will work on a pair of 1939 Harley Rocker covers aka knuckles it will clean that brass track.
I have heard that before Cacole. I have used Alcohol, Nail Polish Remover and Go Gone to clean my Engines wheels. I cannot see any differences in the time between cleanings?
Ken
Ken,Check your pm box.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Goo Gone is the worst possible thing to use on track or wheels because it leaves a sticky residue that just attracts more dirt.
Caccole, I sure remember Brasso and spit shinning my boots!
I will try the Go Gone as well. I want to clean a few sections before I hand them over to Jeremy. We all so have some NS so he should be up and running pretty with something simple pretty quick.
Thanks one and all.
I ont't think the Athearn Budd / RDC car is still in production, but it hasn't been too long since they made them. I suspect since they were "shorties", that once LL came out with their scale-length Budd cars the Athearn one was pretty much obsolete. Your RDC having a rubber band drive means it's very old, 1950's or 60's.
I'd try GooGone. It works fine on nickel silver and I'd expect it to be just as good on brass. To clean the sides of the rail you want a toothbrush soaked in Googone or Brasso or perhaps just plain alcohol (shellac thinner).
Nothing wrong with brass, it was the mainstay of the hobby for decades. It's just that nickel silver looks better and stays clean somewhat longer.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Jack, the only reason I used the word junk is because of what I was expecting to hear from most folks here. I have never ran brass so I have no idea what to expect. Far as the tooth brush, that will get the green off the sides of the rail's? Will recommend the contact cleaner to Jeremy as well.
On a side note, just ran the rubber band drive Athearn RDC-1. (think they are called BUD cars) Ran like a champ and hauled cabooses as well! Very cool! Any ideas how long ago they stooped making them? Looks to be the Gold Athearn motor in the car. I am pretty sure that was replaced.
Thanks again, Cuda Ken
Hello Ken there is no long term fix for brass track. I would think the gleam method would help. But I think you should run a cleaning car more often maybe something with a pad and some very fine sandpaper to keep the shine. Hope this helps Frank
Old timer eh? Why sonny if I could reach my cane right now......
Brass track is not junk, it's just not nickel silver. Clean it the same way you clean any other track, either with alcohol based liquid cleaner, bright boy track scrubber, or electrical contact cleaner. Use a tooth brush to clean the sides. That's all there is to it. There is no mystery to it and brass is very durable- why not run it for a while before you condemn it to "always dirty can't keep it clean" status. It may just surprise you.
As with any track (and I"ve cleaned my share of brass, ns, and stainless) the best way to keep it clean is to run trains on it regularly, very simple. I found that with brass rails and steel wheels that the elecrical contact cleaner works very well in keeping the steel from oxidizing and promotes excellent electrical conductivity- after all that is exactly what it is designed to do.
most metal polish will work on cleaning the track. the main problem will lie on the track STAYING clean, brass oxydize VERY fast and there not much you can do aside from taking out the oxygen in the air...frequent train running,metal car wheels, fine polishing and gleaming as well as good throughtout cleaning schedule can help but in the long run they are major hindrances
OK, OK, OK. I know brass track is junk, you cannot keep it clean etc! At one time that was all that was offered (I think) so we made do with what we had at the time. I am looking for tips on cleaning the track onces it is up and running. Plus tips on mass cleaning. Thanks to the kind folks here helping with the Jeremy Project http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/166763.aspx?PageIndex=1 we have close to 120 sections of brass track. Lot of it looks pretty good, some looks like it came from the Antique Road Show, looks like it will work fine, just want some tips how to clean it up.
I want to clean the sides of the rails, cleaning the top can be done with a bright boy or super fine sandpaper say 600 girt or finer.
Would the Gleam Method help keep the brass from oxidizing?
Any tips on keeping steel wheels clean, besides go NS?
Been getting some neat and old stuff. I have never seen a Lionel HO engine or Athearn rubber band drive engine before. Read about them but never seen one.
Thanks for the coming answer and the donations as well!
Your friend, Cuda Ken