Scale Coat II Paint

[AntonioFP45]

Hey Amigos,

For the past two decades I've used mainly Floquil and Testors paints on my models.

While I'm switching over to Acrylics, I do happen to have two big jars of Scale Coat II paint that are new and don't want to see go to waste. I've been considering airbrush painting a couple of E-units and my Metroliner set with this.

Concern: Have any of you had any problems spraying Scale Coat II "directly" onto bare HO plastic cars and locomotive shells? I've stripped the shells bare and I'm the type that prefers to get it right the first time. I prefer not to use Barrier unless there is a significant risk.

Thanks!

[Eriediamond]

Antonio, I've not had experience with Scale Coat II, but if your bare plastic cars and locos are different colors or shades of colors, it may make a difference on the out come as far as the shade of the color you are painting with. You may want to primer them with the same primer to get the same uniform color for all you are painting.

[Anonymous]

Eriediamond has some good advice anout painting over different colors of the base plastic and should be heeded in many cases.

I have sprayed a lot of SC II over the years and haven't really had any problems with the different base colors of the models unless using a really light color. SC II is made for plastics so you don't have to use a primer or barrier. Be careful and don't mix regular SC and SC II though.

My only problem with SC & SCII is the slow drying time required compared to Floquil and some others. It covers very well and dries with a smooth and glossy finish ready for decaling though which is a big plus.

Go for it!!

Roger

[AntonioFP45]

Erie Diamond, Huber25

Thanks guys! I was concerned that the solvents in SCII could "craze" bare plastic. I appreciate the input!

I'll give it a whirl!

[michealfarley]

I've been using solven-based paints (Floquil, Scalecoat, Scalecoat II) for 15 years, and I've never had one plastic shell problem. I think that the "Barrier" is maybe a precaution by the manufacturer to make sure that you don't blame their paint if you do have a shell go bad.

To add another note, I've stuck with these brands for spraying. I don't use any acrylic in my airbrush. Too much problems with clogging, "fisheyes", etc. Stick with what sticks!

[AntonioFP45]

Thanks Michael,

I too have had good results with solvent based paints in the past. I remember years back of problems with some of the acrylics, however, today's Polly Scale and Badger Model Flex paints are a very big improvement over their "ancestors" of the 1980s. It does take some getting used to but the quality is very good!

I like the fact that if there is an accidental spill, the clean up is easy and the smell is almost non-existent.

My plan basically is that as I run out of the solvent based colors, I'll replace them "as needed" with the acrylics.

Thanks again for your input guys!

[Anonymous]

Michealfarley.

Had the same problem with clogging. Go to a size larger tip and thin the paint just a tad. This has eliminated the clogging for me. The fisheye thing is generally due to moisture in the air/paint mix you are spraying. Do you have a moisture separator in-line between the compressor and the airbrush? I installed one in an attempt to solve the same problem and it works quite well. This is just a suggestion. Someone else may have a better solution. Best of luck.

Tom

[AntonioFP45]

I know this thread was mainly about the solvent based Scale Coat II, but since we've mentioned Acrylics, one more little tip.

Cmarchand informed me that you can reduce Acrylics with alchohol. Good results and a faster curing time. One thing though, don't use alchohol in thinning Acrylic Clears as it will hurt gloss level, unless you're deliberately toning down the gloss.

Thanks Amigos!