Allegheny2-6-6-6 No matter what I do to it my rock stratta looks like piece of ceiling tile stacked on top of each other would love to see a how to thread
I've never tried it, but have similar sentiments. I think an error made in using the tiles to simulate sedimentary rock is that the tiles are always shown laid up in flat level layers. If you look at real rock cuts, the layers tend to be angled to the ground and will undulate somewhat.
"I am lapidary but not eristic when I use big words." - William F. Buckley
I haven't been sleeping. I'm afraid I'll dream I'm in a coma and then wake up unconscious. -Stephen Wright
da_kraut Hi Don7,my layout uses ceiling tile instead of cork roadbed. I came across this idea from a fellow modeler a few years ago. Tried to get homasote but can not purchase it here in Canada, so ceiling tile looked like a good substitute. None of my ceiling tile was sealed but if the room is temperature and humidity controlled it should not affect it. Also when you put the wet water on to glue down the ballast, it also glues down the track. This is important because the nails that hold the track in place initially are very loose and all they can do is keep the flex track from changing the way it was put down. It is also not good to run your sound engines over the tracks at this stage because a powerful magnet will actually remove the nails. Again once the tracks are ballasted the glue holds the tracks and spikes in place and it seems to seal everything quite good. The nice thing about working with ceiling tile is that it is easy to file it into the shape you want it to be. It is also quite cheap.I hope this helps.Frank
Hi Don7,
my layout uses ceiling tile instead of cork roadbed. I came across this idea from a fellow modeler a few years ago.
Tried to get homasote but can not purchase it here in Canada, so ceiling tile looked like a good substitute. None of my ceiling tile was sealed but if the room is temperature and humidity controlled it should not affect it. Also when you put the wet water on to glue down the ballast, it also glues down the track. This is important because the nails that hold the track in place initially are very loose and all they can do is keep the flex track from changing the way it was put down. It is also not good to run your sound engines over the tracks at this stage because a powerful magnet will actually remove the nails. Again once the tracks are ballasted the glue holds the tracks and spikes in place and it seems to seal everything quite good.
The nice thing about working with ceiling tile is that it is easy to file it into the shape you want it to be. It is also quite cheap.
I hope this helps.
Frank
Frank.
For future reference, a RONA Building Centre in the Etobicoke (Toronto) area used to carry it about 4 or 5 years ago. They had a stack of it in the plywood section. It seems like it was a standard item from the number of sheets that they had. The price was somewhere in the $30.00+ range as I paid a total of less than $40.00 including taxes. They even made the two cuts that I required for my purposes for free. I would imagine that they would order in a couple of sheets on special order. My thoughts only.
Blue Flamer.
don7 He asked me if I had heard of anyone using ceiling tiles.
There is an article in the 2010 Model Railroad Planning book by Jim Six. He describes his benchwork as consisting of a series of recessed pockets into which he places 2" foam. He then glues two or more layers of ceiling tile onto of the foam, and shapes it to the desired contour. He draws the track centerlines onto the tiles, and says that the track will be cemented in place with DAP clear adhesive caulk.
There is a two page spread in the magazine with photos showing the benchwork details, the initial tile installation, and the result after the tiles are contoured.
I used it on a liftable portion of the layout when running out of fiberboard (homasote). These tiles were 20-year old and made of wood in a similar way and density as homasote. Just like Mike said, it holds the track as good as homasote would do and react the same to humidity. However, make sure you use the good kind of ceiling tiles.
The problem with water is more important when you chip it to make rock faces just like hminky propose on his website, which on this case is a wanted result.
Matt
Proudly modelling the Quebec Railway Light & Power Co since 1997.
http://www.hedley-junction.blogspot.com
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I have a medium sized layout all made with ceiling tiles and have had no problem at all.I have stacked 2 layers together, more where I wanted a creek or river then painted it well with several coats of paint to seal it. I used white glue to hold down the cork roadbed and white glue to hold the tracks to the roadbed. I use rail spikes in the track to hold it in place until the glue dries then remove the spikes, I have to use a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers to get the spikes out, ceiling tiles holds spikes really well. I cannot get foam board here in SW Okla any thicker than 1/2'' and had a neighbor give me all the used paper tiles I could use. I personally like it better than using the foam board. I did try using some of the foam board and quicklu decided to go back to the ceiling tiles. I have had no problem with moisture, as a matter of fact I spilled some water on the layout that is just painted and did not realize it for almost an hour. I got a wrag and wiped it up and it is as good as ever. The ceiling tiles will hold trees and such with no problem.
I would say that if you have access to ceiling tiles, by all means use it. Hope this helps, If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Mike
Lee
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Harold
No matter what I do to it my rock stratta looks like piece of ceiling tile stacked on top of each other would love to see a how to thread
I'v enevr htought of using it as a track bed,but the club I was a member of for many years has had satcked ceilign tile used as rock faces for well over twenty years. It was sealed only with a brown latex paint to simulate a dirt colour then roughed up to look like rock. The club building is a 100+ year old church so we constantly have dehumidifiers running despite that we have had no structural issues with it. As the techniques of using pink foam had come out over the years though they have switched to that method of scenery and they have always used cork roadbed for track. I can see though however that it would be an attractively priced material for someone running on a limited budget. I would say just make sure it's sealed and try to control the temp and humidity in the trainroom as best you can.
Two shots of the ceiling tile usuage on the club layout,the rock work and the underpinning of the town scene are ceiling tile and it is about 23 years old and counting in this location.
Rob
I once belonged to a club which couldn't obtain cork roadbed or 'real' Homasote locally (overseas location.) The closest suitable sub was local ceiling tile, cut in 37mm wide strips, kerfed most of the way across if necessary to allow it to curve. IIRC, it was somewhat denser than the ceiling tile I bought locally (Las Vegas) and was better at holding spikes.
It was laid on a heavy plywood substrate, and never exhibited any significant water absorption problems.
Of course, this was not a North American product. Nowadays, I do the same thing with thin foam over plywood - cork doesn't last long in the Dessicated Desert, and domestic ceiling tile won't hold spikes.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I have a section of my layout that I used ceiling tile. It was used because I had some left over and thought it should work as well as foam for the area I was using it under. The benchwork is built as it normally would and the ceiling tile is as sturdy as foam. I wouldn't want to stand on it, but for the layout it seems to work fine. I have had no issues with moisture and the layout is in the basement. I didn't as much seal it on purpose as much as just painted the surface approximately the dirt color. Once glued the track sticks well. I have had no issues using wet water for scenery or ballast. I have not yet spilled a beer or coffee on it and left it long enough to soak in. It beads at least long enough to wipe up. I have used it for rock formations covered with plaster and paper towels and again no issues. It is however more difficult to shape and when cut does make a bigger mess. I would not use it without a plywood underbase if that is what you are thinking because ceiling tile does have a tendency to sag over time if not supported. Moisture then will play a much bigger part. I'd hate to get water in my basement again and as humid as it gets, have unsupported ceiling tile. Mine is glued to 1/4 inch plywood and have no issues of any kind.
All that being said and emphasizing I have had no negative issues, I would not necessarily recommend ceiling tiles over foam. I believe your options would be better with the available thicknesses if you used foam and it is a bit easier to work with. You can also get it in smaller chunks than 4'X8' or 10'. If money is a factor in your choosing ceiling tile, properly supported I wouldn't worry too much, but I still think I'd wait for foam, or not use it at all. I don't regret using ceiling tile but I won't use anymore. Can't explain why, I have no good reason, I just wouldn't. But that's my opinion. Others may have differing views.
Todd
Central Illinoyz
In order to keep my position as Master and Supreme Ruler of the House, I don't argue with my wife.
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Starting by admitting that I like to use top grade ply despite the cost I have a serious question:- why would you use ceiling tile in this way?
Having had (another) ceiling collapse at work with very little water having got onto it I just can't see the point. It looks like asking for future troubles to me. Okay, people do it and it can be sealed but - when I'm going to invest a lot of time, effort and money into what will sit on top of it...
Maybe I'm too prejudiced...
"If you need a helping hand, you'll find one at the end of your arm."
I believe the theory behind it, just so long as you don't spike the tracks down, or puncture the ceiling tile in any way. If it is painted, I would think that it is only the outer edges getting the paint, and as soon as you get any holes in it, you would then allow the moiture to penetrate just as if it hadn't been painted... Just my opinion, not to be taken as "gospel"... Hope it helps!
Sam
May He bless you, guide you, and keep you safe on your journey through life!
I Model the New Hope & Ivyland RR (Bucks County, PA)
I have heard of people stacking them up to make rock faces and outcroppings,but not for trackbed.
I was browsing the local hobby shop this afternoon to see if there was any new items in stock when another customer asked me if I had a layout or was just starting one as was he.
We then started a conversation about model railroads. He asked me if I had heard of anyone using ceiling tiles. He has built his basic benchwork and it has a 1" foam deck. He has raised the elevation using additional 1" foam boards and also uses the Woodland risers to mate his trackwork onto ceiling tiles.
He advises me that once the tiles have been sealed they hold his trackwork without any problems. He is using cork for the trackbed and Atlas 100 flextrack,
He advised me that the ceiling tiles are ideal, he is covering his layout essentially with 2' x 4' modules.
Anyone ever used ceiling tiles for their layout? The main conern that comes to my mind is that the ceiling tiles would be prone to swelling should they become wet. However I am assured that once they have been painted they are sealed and not subject to moisture penetrating them.