Facia Board installation

[Anonymous]

Can someone explain to me facia installation (or point me to a book that has it)?

I've read that 1/8" masonite is a good way to go, but I'm not sure how to secure it to the layout...My benchwork will be L-girder w/ risers. Do I run some additional risers at the edge of the benchwork to secure it to?

Thanks

[CP5170]

If the L-girders come to the edge of the layout, you can secure the masonite with drywall screws. When I installed my fascia, I pre-drilled the masonite with the appropriate countersink bit. This recessed the screw enough that I could cover it with drywall plaster. Where the edges of the masonite butt joined, I used an adhesive drywall mess tape and plastered over it. Work slowly with several layers and it will be as smooth as the masonite.

Hope this helps ... Ken

[CNJ831]

There are several ways to easily handle this depending on just what you have to start with. My layout is rectangular in shape but also L-girder construction. I put a band of 1x4 around the outside of the cross members and screwed the masonite facia to it. Lacking such a perimeter-board, you could secure the facia directly to the ends of the L-girders/cross members, pre-drilling all the screw holes to avoid splitting the wood. To allow for less accurate workmanship one can also attach short wooden 2-by blocks to one side or the other of the ends of the cross members and screw into them.

CNJ831

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys...so do you install the facia prior to scenery installation?

I haven't decided what I'm going to use for scenery just yet, but if I do use foam I guess I would just make the foam extend to the facia and fill any holes with plaster...but if I use wire screen and plaster how do I attach it to the upper portion of the facia?

[CP5170]

I would install the fascia before doing any scenery. I used my portable jigsaw and cut along the top edge of the fascia so that it was not perfectly level and straight. Unless you are modeling the mid-west, the ground will have some undulation to it. If you use foam insulation, you could cut it later thought it would be just as easy to sand it to the contour.

With respect to wire mesh, many people like to have the scenery come over the top edge of the fascia. If you chose that method, you could staple the me***o the top of the masonite; otherwise, you could glue it to the back side of the fascia.

Hope this helps...Ken

[Anonymous]

Yes it does! Thanks Ken!

[FJ and G]

After screwing in the fascia, I cover the countersunk screws with drywall mud and apply paint over it

dave vergun

[Anonymous]

So is 1/8" masonite the way to go? Does Home Depot or Lowes carry that or will I need to go to a specialty builders store?

[FJ and G]

Home Depot sells it, Wes, under a different name: hardboard, I believe.

I painted on the rough side as the paint sticks better, tho I understand most paint on the smooth side.

4X8 sheets are about $8

The boards are very dark brown in color.

[Anonymous]

Thanks again guys! I've learned more from this forum than from any other way!

Keep up the good work!

[retsignalmtr]

i painted the facia before installation then screwed it to the layout with 3/4" #6 flat head phillips screws with finishing washers. don't cover the screws in case you have to remove them. did it before scenery and i'll bring it down to the facia. you can use the leftover scraps of masonite to make pads for track cleaning cars