I ordered the 6-pack from Athearn through my LHS. It was around $3. I replaced all 4 gears on my GP7 tonight and it now sounds like a brand new model. It runs smooth as any of my locos. Hard to believe that cracks too small to see, made the model run so bad. Thanks everybody for the tips. - Bill
Thanks again guys. Yep, I had one wheel that literally fell out of the gear casting. I'll check with my local shop tomorrow. - Bill
cwhowell2I took the trucks apart tonight and I do not see any evidence of a cracked axle gear.
As stated, lot of times you will not see the cracks. The Athearn part number is ATH60024, you get 6 gears for around $2.00. Reason I used Athearn is because my LHS had them. They are left from when I was fixing my 20 year old BL 2's.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
cwhowell2 I took the trucks apart tonight and I do not see any evidence of a cracked axle gear. So I guess my problem may be elsewhere. I'll check the drive shafts next.
I took the trucks apart tonight and I do not see any evidence of a cracked axle gear. So I guess my problem may be elsewhere. I'll check the drive shafts next.
As others have explained, you will not be able to see the cracked gears, If you can easily remove or twist them, replace them.
Last time I needed any, Walthers had plenty, whether you buy them or they give you some under warranty, I have never had any problem with the replacements from LifeLike or Walthers.
I see no advantage to buying replacements from Athearn, or some guy in Austrailia when the factory parts are available and work fine.
If you have only one or two locos, Walthers will likely give them to you under warranty. Years ago LifeLike gave them away like candy, but since the problem does date back quite far, Walthers has become a little more conserative with the freebees.
And, again, all 40 or so of mine run great.
Sheldon
Just go ahead and replace them anyway. You can go to your LHS and get Athearn axle gears for a few bucks. They are drop in replacements. They come in a package labeled for SD40-2 gears, but those gears fit nearly all athearn cloned trucks, like your P2K GP7.
To the OP.... The grey box GP7 is the same athearn cloned driveline as the older blue box, but without the cracked gear problem. I think they are great locos, but, do not run as smoothly as an Atlas or a Kato at ultra low speed, IMO.
- Douglas
cwhowell2 TA462 Don't let the cracked gear issue scare you, it takes all of a minute or two to fix them. I just got an EL P2k GP7 on eBay. There is a snapping sound when run in one direction. Is that a symptom of cracked gears? Where can I get replacement parts? Also missing the horn. Thanks - Bill
TA462 Don't let the cracked gear issue scare you, it takes all of a minute or two to fix them.
Don't let the cracked gear issue scare you, it takes all of a minute or two to fix them.
I just got an EL P2k GP7 on eBay. There is a snapping sound when run in one direction. Is that a symptom of cracked gears? Where can I get replacement parts? Also missing the horn. Thanks - Bill
Search Ebay for " Proto Parts"
I bought 3 packages from this guy
and they shipped in just 12 days from austraila
http://vi.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersionDescV4&view=desc&txnid=410920012013&js=-1&it=Wheel+Gears+Athearn+Life+Like+Proto+2000+pk+6&ds=0&viewitemversiondescv4=&item=230414544567&t=1247809368000&bv=msie&ssid=15&caz.html=&category=484&seller=aceantman
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
I've noticed you can get the "luck of the draw" sound units from places like Trainworld for under $120. Given that the sound decoder costs nearly that alone and I'd be swapping my shell on, if I should decide to go with sound that's what I'd do - and probably recoup another $30 or so selling the oddball DC version - maybe to someone who wanted that road name but didn't want sound. Win/win. But for now I'm just not interested in putting sound in everything. For now I'll stick to my DCC no sound, and since I have all 4 road numbers they released, I don't need any more - it's hard to justify any of them let alone 4 for a branch that was regularly assigned an AS-16.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker I will also add that I got all of mine, in my modeled road, for under $40. One I got at a train show for a mere $20 - new in box, it had never been opened. I guess some people still associate "Life Like" with "garbage". I don't think I've seen an Alas GP-7 in my road name even START on eBay for under $40. So I'll stick with the P2K, thank you. Even if you have no proof of purchase and can't get free replacements for the cracked gears, $40 plus a few bucks for replacements beats $70 for the Atlas. --Randy
I will also add that I got all of mine, in my modeled road, for under $40. One I got at a train show for a mere $20 - new in box, it had never been opened. I guess some people still associate "Life Like" with "garbage". I don't think I've seen an Alas GP-7 in my road name even START on eBay for under $40. So I'll stick with the P2K, thank you. Even if you have no proof of purchase and can't get free replacements for the cracked gears, $40 plus a few bucks for replacements beats $70 for the Atlas.
Randy, I'm with you all the way. All of my GP7's, and lots of my other Proto2000 diesels have been purchased for between $30 and $60 per unit, without begging (read preordering) anyone to sell them to me.
OK, I admit they are all DC, no sound, but that's exactly what I want.
Thanks for all the input guys. It is much appreciated.
Derf
I have over 40 Proto2000 locos, 8 of which are GP7's. Except for a few cracked gears, and some loose wires from my own disassembly/modifications, I have never had any problems.
All of mine are DC versions, all run good. Slow speed on my Aristo Train Engineer throttles is excelent, top speeds are perfect prototype matches, locos are smooth and powerfull.
Yes, the plastic grab irons and such are fragile, they are models not toys.
There have been several threads on this or similar topics recently and several have complained of less than perfect performance from Proto2000 locos. Most of those same individuals also sing the praises of Atlas and Kato.
Atlas and Kato are both very good, but again, their selection fails to cover the needs of many of us. And their production/distribution policies make them more expensive and harder to get.
Going out on a limb here, and not meaning to offend anyone, I will suggest that some of you who have had less than perfect experiances with Proto2000 diesels may have layout environments that are a little on the dusty/dirty side.
The more open nature of the Proto/Athearn truck design does lend itself to picking up dust, animal hair, dirt, etc, directly at the axle bearings which are also the electrical pickup transfer point on many of these models. Accumulated crud in this area affects both the mechanical and electrical operation of the model.
Atlas and Kato both have a better design in this regard. So in a less clean environment they likely experiance less or no dificulty.
Personally, my layout room is as clean as my living room and is heated and cooled. Pets to not go there, house keeping is done regularly, heavy cuting, etc is done elsewhere. So my Protos don't pick up dirt and thereby run fine.
Still very happy with my large fleet of Proto, Genesis, Spectrum and Intermountain and have not found more expensive products from BLI, Kato or Atlas to be noticably better for my purposes.
Mine run great, DCC install is super simple. I've replaced a few cracked gears, but otherwise they run smoothly and quietly. The detailing is superior to the old worn-out Atlas units. Naturally, with fine details like lift rings, you can't manhandle them and expect the details to take it, these are fine models and should be handled carefully. Dunno about the sound ones, but they should be fine with their QSI decoders. I've considered swapping shells to get sound, but while I find sound interesting it's not a must-have for me.
TA462David B, that's the first I've heard of solder joints working themselves loose
I had to re-do a couple of solder joints, but this was after I'd done a lot of both physical and electrical work inside the engine to install sound. I'm sure it was the abuse I put the engine through that caused the solder joints to weaken and later come loose in service.
The older engines, by the way, are not particularly "sound installation friendly." Most of the space under the shell is taken up with weight, and I had to do quite a bit of cutting to fit in the speaker and the Tsunami, which is a thick decoder.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I have around 14 Protos, only the 4 20 year old ones have cracked center gears. Rest of mine are around 4 years old with lots of run time, around 200 hours each. I have finally had a motor go bad in a Proto F-3, the F 3's are ran hard pulling 50 car trains, so I cannot hold that aginst the Protos.
I bought mine 2 1/2 years ago - DCC/sound. It runs and pulls well and luckily I have had no problems with it. I wouldn't hesitate to buy more if I were in the market for them.
Mine are marked GP9s, but they may be GP7s. I've had them for several years, after getting a pair at M.B. Klein for the princely sum of $40 each. I did replace the axle gears and couplers. I've added sound to one, and motor decoder to the other. They are now solid, reliable and very attractive engines.
I've had my Proto 2000 Toledo, Preoria, and Western GP-7 for 3 or 4 mos. with no issues, I love this thing!!!
Does anyone know how the Proto 2000 GP-7's perform? I am looking to buy several GP-7's with DCC and was wondering if they would work smoothly or not.
Thanks in advance.