This review is on Tiger Valley's HO scale ALCO RSD-12 diesel kit.
The diesel came as a partially assembled kit, with the mechanical work mostly done, and the detail and painting left up to the builder. A detailed set of instructions is included along with about a dozen nice photos of various prototypes. A very large number of detail parts are provided so the builder can model nearly any prototype, and a lot of extras are also there. I ended up with a few dozen parts left over in the end, so it's a very generous kit.
All the major castings and cast detail parts are made from a soft and very heavy zinc/cadmium alloy, making the kit easier to work on, and making the whole thing much heavier than the typical zinc castings. To save on space and cost (the manufacturer is a farmer, after all), the parts are made in flex-molds rather than steel casting dies. As a result, some small parts are deformed (probably one reason for having so many extras), and the major parts aren't as sharp and clean looking as most metal castings. There are a few major deformities, like the hoods leaning off to one side slightly, or a warped look around the sides of the cab. Most of the time, I don't even notice the leaning hoods, and the cab could be cut off and replaced with another pretty easily.
Most of the detail is cast very sharply, and looks very good. Nothing looks flat, and some parts actually have very deep detail. Nearly every walkway has fine tread cast into it, including the steps. The fuel tank is split into two parts to make room for the second driveline under the floor, like what was common with metal and brass from the 40s through the 60s. Most of the grab irons are pre-bent fine brass wire, but some special ones have to be bent out of provided wire by the modeler. The handrails and coupler lift bars also have to be bent. Wire lift rings are also included. Many etched-brass details are in the kit, which include the radiator fan screen, wind deflectors, and drop-steps (I only used the fan screen on mine). The handrail stanchions, headlights, horn, air tanks, sand caps, and the major additional parts are cast metal. There's also a non-operating radiator fan and bracket, but my kit was missing the bracket, so I made my own since it's barely noticable anyway.
Everything fit together very well for the most part, but some places did need a little modification for a couple parts to fit right. Other than that, it wasn't hard to assemble. One thing to remember is that once the handrails are assembled to the engine, the cab/short hood casting is semi-permanently attached, and can't be easily removed. The long hood isn't hard to remove, however, and most of the mechanics are there anyway. I believe the metal alloy has a fairly low melting temperature (around 500?), so if soldering is done, it should be done very, very carefully. I personally haven't had a problem with just using super-glue. Only one working headlight assembly is provided, which is a light bulb connected to two thick opticle fibers, and there's a single diode to go with it. Holes for it are only drilled in the short hood, but I decided to mount mine in the long hood instead, which means I had to drill additional holes. Small jewels are also in the kit for the marker lights.
And the paint and lettering job is excellent, if I do say so myself.
The drive mechanism is a very rugged design, which I believe is made mostly by Northwest Short Line. The motor (which says "Sagami," but I think it's a clone by NWSL) comes with a single flywheel on one end, and a delrin sprocket on the other. The sprocket drives a delrin chain leading to another sprocket in the first truck, which turns a long shaft with a steel worm driving a brass gear on each axle. An Athearn-style universal connects the first truck to the second one, which has identicle gearing to the first one. Ten of the wheels have electrical pickup (on each truck, three are grounded, and two have wipers).
Although well designed and very high quality, the model ran poorly when I first got it. All of the plastic insulaters for the non-grounded wheels were off center, and had to be pulled out and modified. The gears in one truck were also too tightly meshed and were binding with their worms, and had to be adjusted equally. The motor's brushes were too tightly sprung, causing excessive stress on the motor (it was drawing almost 0.3A on its own), and had to be loosened a little. And on a lesser note, the single flywheel didn't give enough momentum to do much of anything, so I stuck a second one on.
I was able to fix everything, and the RSD-12 is now the best running kit I've ever built. It's very responsive at low speeds, has a wide range of control, and runs very smoothly at all times. The chain is pretty noisy, making a sort of humming/wining sound, but I've actually gotten to like it. At only 2V, it maintained a steady 2.2 scale MPH, and at 12V, it reached 52 scale MPH. Current draw under no load hung around 0.2A, and the stall current was about 1.4A. Because of the good electrical pickup, it handled switches pretty well. The chain drive works on 18" radius curves, but it doesn't like them too much and makes a bit of a grinding sound when going around them. It's better on a 22" radius and up. Even with nickel-plated wheels, the engine has a drawbar pull stronger than my P2K SD60 or P1K DL-109, and I think my only stronger pullers would be my Bowser 4-6-6-4 and customized Bachmann DD40X! The coupler pockets are designed to hold Kadee couplers in their plastic boxes, and they're just the tiniest bit lower than the recommended height. The inside is very open, so there's plenty of room for any electronics wanted, and probably still enough room to spare for a full cab interior too!
Although it's not perfect, Tiger Valley's RSD-12 is a very nice kit to build, and the large number of details make it a good choice for those wanting to model a more specific prototype. And once adjusted properly, it's just about the smoothest and most trouble-free runner out there, which I'm guessing is the same for the rest of TVM's kits. The website is gone, but I believe Tiger Valley is still in business. This has been one long review, so I hope I didn't bore you too much.
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Darth, you should have been a Gear Head! How much did the kit cost?
Ken
I hate Rust
Thanks for the review. I have purchased parts from him in the past, but never a complete kit. I have seen some of his finished kit in person before and saw one, I think an Alco C628, pulling a 100 car string of ore hoppers on a modular layout once. The engine (only one) seemed to not even be working hard to do it. The "whine" from the chain was not that noticable either. It may have worn in after some run time. At the time I thught it was the best looking C628 I had ever seen but, this was before Stewart came out with theirs.
Dan
cudaken, last time I checked, the 6 axle kits were $135, and the 4-axle kits were $125. This applies to all Tiger Valley kits.
pike-62, maybe that chain will quiet down more after really getting broken in. But it's also possible that you saw an earlier unit with a belt drive (that's what was used before the chain). But it's true that these things have a lot of torque, because it hardly causes any stress when the wheels are slipping!
One thing I failed to mention before is that the chain shouldn't be too tight. It needs to have a little slop, or it will put more stress on the motor and make more noise.
Darth Santa Fe pike-62, maybe that chain will quiet down more after really getting broken in. But it's also possible that you saw an earlier unit with a belt drive (that's what was used before the chain). But it's true that these things have a lot of torque, because it hardly causes any stress when the wheels are slipping!
That could be. I never knew anything about the unit I saw other than I was fairly new in the hobby and was amaized at how much that one engine could pull. I alwas had problems with getting my Athearn to pull more than 15 cars at the time. I now understand the weight/tractive effort is as important as the gearing ratios are. Of course with the weight you also need the motor.
Dan Pikulski
Darth, have you considered putting a smoke unit in that Alco? Are the walkways and steps actually part of the frame (like the Atlas GP7/9)?
I've been contemplating seeing if he had an Alco C636 shell, and if the walkways were speperate, possibly putting it on a Bowser C630 frame that had Hi-Ad trucks. Reason for that is the tiger valley chassis would make it too slow for the speed curve I set my engines on; and I'd have to re-do it juct for 1 engine.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Darth, thanks for the review of the Tiger Valley Models Alco. Of course all Tiger Valley Locos are Alcos..... Guil is THEE Alco man! Back 25 years ago his models were world class and still can hold their own with anything out there. You will find that once it is broken in you will have a great pulling engine that will still be running your track many years from now.
I first heard about Tiger Valley Models back 25 years ago or so. Always thought he was located up in New England somewhere. In actual fact he lives about 5 miles from my house. Guil Mack is also an avid modeler who was kind enough to open his layout for our Division Meet last Spring. When visiting I saw a lashup of 8 of his locos pulling a several hundred car train around his layout. Guil works strictly in DC and in order to be able to pull trains that length, he replaces all "modern" couplers (aka: Kaydee types and NMRA Horn Hook) with the ancient Mantua hook and ring couplers. Must be a large layout, you're thinking? Here it is in Guil's own words......
"The Tiger Valley System, Guil Mack, Jr., Scale: HO Layout size: 1800 sq. feet Trackwork complete: 100% Guil planned the Tiger Valley System in the 1960’s and finally began construction in 1973. It fills the 1800 square foot basement of his house and consists of the Tiger Valley Eastern Division, a four track main line loop about 155 feet in length, the Tiger Valley Western Division, a three track main line loop about 350 feet in length. Both can run through the main yard or bypass the yard. The Western Division interchanges with two branchlines; the Black Diamond Route, a two track line loop about 350 feet in length; and the Norinyl Line, a single track branch line that connects trackage on the basement walls over a 21 foot long timber trestle. Mainline tracks are 48” minimum radius, branchline tracks are 36” minimum radius. Virtually all of the 5700 feet of track is code 100 rail spiked to ties made from Ohio Blue Tip matchsticks cut to length and stained. There are currently 311 working switches (most are scratch built) operated by twin coil machines. Operation is DC block control thru main panels, local panels, and walk around controls. Storage tracks line the basement walls that will be accessed by lift out sections at some future date. He uses Mantua style hook and loop couplers on the layout. Operating sessions use a simple work order sheet using car reporting marks for various siding destinations. There are about 200 locomotives and 2000 cars on the layout and many more in storage. Guil models equipment from 1940 to about 1990 and so runs steam and first and second generation diesels."
If you ever get a chance, it is a "must see"!
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
pike-62, one thing many Athearns lacked for a long time was weight. They've only started to put additional weight in all their new diesels in the last couple years.
Packer, the flat walkways are part of the frame, but the rest is separate. TVM also sells dummy units, and the metal is easy to work with, so it's possible to put the Bowser/Stewart drive into the TVM unit.
howmus, I've always heard that Mr. Mack was a nice guy. Sounds like he's got a pretty impressive layout, too! If I'm ever around there, I may have to check it out. And if I do, I may have to bring my kit with me.
Darth, was there enough motor shaft to mount both flywheels, or did you just glue the second one onto the original? Nice job. The chain looks like those used in robotics drives.
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
Good lord. You sure know how to build locos Darth! That's one fine-looking engine, and sounds liek she runs good to.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
SteamFreakDarth, was there enough motor shaft to mount both flywheels, or did you just glue the second one onto the original? Nice job. The chain looks like those used in robotics drives.
Yes, the shaft was just long enough for both flywheels. I think that's one reason why it was chosen, because it has to extend pretty far for the chain drive on the other end.
Packers#1, after building quite a few kits, I think I've got the process down pretty well now. Next will hopefully be a Keystone Shay with NWSL drive, but I also have to finish my Bowser L-1 Mikado.
Beautiful! Are these kits still available, and where from?
Matt
Darth Santa FePackers#1, after building quite a few kits, I think I've got the process down pretty well now. Next will hopefully be a Keystone Shay with NWSL drive, but I also have to finish my Bowser L-1 Mikado.
yeah man. I haven't built a loco kit since I've been in this hobby; or freight car for that matter. Ain't had a chance; can't find any in N scale that I know of. I'm sure they're out there; I just can't find them, lol
You have to use snail mail (or call him) to contact him:
Guilford Mack
c/o Tiger Valley Models
1070 County Road #23
Phelps, NY 14532-9769
Phone: 315 348 9021
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
I have two Tiger Valley Model C420, they do run (DC) only. They both have brass wheel sets. Dose anyone know if you can swap them for NWSL nickel silver wheel sets?