climaxpwr Need a resistor to drop the voltage by about 3-5 volts, then I can tie the circuit in ahead of the resistor so it gets full track voltage.
I often use 2 diodes (4 actually two in each direction) for constant intensity power to 1.5V lamps in marker lamps in cabooses. I've never done it to that high of a voltage but the concept should be the same.
according to the directions, the black and red wires just go to the power points on the model, nothing about having the motor in series with the circuit. I have dropping resistors, but they are way to high in Ohm's to work, motor wont even run, just hum. Need a resistor to drop the voltage by about 3-5 volts, then I can tie the circuit in ahead of the resistor so it gets full track voltage. Its been so long since I had to do this, I dont remember the Ohms rating I want on the resistor. Years ago we ballested several OMI power chassis under Athearn shells to run with stock Athearns.
LHS mechanic and geniune train and antique garden tractor nut case!
Do the directions call for using the motor as ballast in the circuit? Is the circuit supposed to be in series with the motor? From the description it sounds like it is in parallel.
I put my Minitronics mars light circuit in my old PFM Berkshire, but she is rolling along at a good clip before the mars gets up to brightness. This is with the original Pittman motor if you can believe that! The circuit is 4-14volts, you would think it would be up and doing its thing before the motor got the engine moving much, but nope. How can ballest the motor so it doesnt respond till the light circuit has enough juice to flash? The circuit is soldered right to the power leads on the motor itself. Motor draws a solid 1 amp on full stall, but 1/2 to 3/4 amp is the normal operating draw when running and pulling a normal train. Hope to get an idea so I can finish up my engine tonight. Thanks Mike