Insul frog vs. electro frog

[Anonymous]

I bought some Micro Engineering turnouts and before I even lay them I would like to know, is there any way to insulate the frog? (or at least keeping the wiring to a minimum) I plan to use cab control.

[Anonymous]

The thing I absolutly love about electro-frog turnouts is that you CANNOT (if they're wired right) derail if the turnout is against you. The power routing feature gives you a dead track if the points are against the wrong stock rail and your train stops moving. The PECO have a spring that holds the points against the rail, Atlas doesn't, the Wathers/Shinohara turnouts (code 83) I've used (club layout, 150 turnouts and wyes) all had to be grooved to keep the wheels from bottoming out in the frogs and derailing.
I've yet to experiance ANY problems with the PECO electro frogs.

[Anonymous]

I also am frustrated with the Peco switches. I do have Code 100 Peco flex track. What switches are you using now? Would they be compatible with Peco turnouts? Thanks John

[Anonymous]

Ken, although you are getting some well-intentioned responses, I don't believe your question is really being answered in a way that can help you choose.I think your question is more wiring-related. I assume you mean choosing the difference between the two Peco type turnouts...BOTH the Insulfrog and the Electrofrog have a firm rule that applies to all 'live-frog'or 'power-routing' turnouts, (including Shinohara /Walthers ), YOU MUST NEVER FEED POWER TO THE TRACKS FROM THE FROG SIDE, ONLY FROM THE POINTS SIDE.
The Peco insulfrog is nothing like an Atlas plastic frog unit. Peco insulfrogs have wires under the frog to route power beyond, but the power is routed by the points, not by basic track connections, the way Atlas works.
I've used both types of Peco units and wired them identically, with no problem.
Most train shops will have someone who can explain this, and most will be glad to take out an instruction sheet from each of the two types of Peco unit and go through it with you.
Best of luck / Mike in Canada

[BRAKIE]

Griff: It might be better to replace the switcth(turnout).In the pass I had alot of trouble with the peco switches So I got tired of the hassle and replaced them.

[greendiamond]

You'll have to cut and gap your turnout.

Please see "www.wiringfordcc.com" for specific instructions.

Mike

[Anonymous]

I saw this and thought I would extend the discussion a bit more with my question:
I have made the mistake of using what I think is a electric frog N scale switch (peco)on a switchback spur. I ran a extra line to the spur because it wasn't getting any voltage, and now I have a dead short on my layout.
Any suggestions?

[Anonymous]

Mike,
Thanks for the response. That is a great site with more info than I probably ever weant to know.

Ken

[snowey]

definetly the insulated frogs. When I was building my first permanent layout (in HO), I was using the other kind, cause they look more realistic, but I had all sorts of wiring problems with them. Then, I started using the insulated frog turnouts, and I haven't had a problem since. I definetly reccomend them!

[greendiamond]

Check out the website www.wiringfordcc.com, probably the best site for DCC wiring and track info.

Mike

[BRAKIE]

I use the insulated frogs myself,and have no problems.As of now I don't have a layout,but,on pass layouts as I stated I use the insulated frog,there is less wiring that way and less chanch of future electrical shorts.In the 50 years I have been in the hobby,there's one thing I have learned that is to keep wiring as simple as possible.less hassles that way.

[Anonymous]

Help,
I'm building my first peremenant layout. When would you use one over the other. I plan to use DCC to simplify the wiring. I will also have two wyes one of which is already spiked and I had to cut a bunch of gaps to keep from shorting the supply.
Thanks for any replies.
Ken Barthel