I have a Spectrum 80 ft passenger car that the interior light is evidently burned out and would like to replace it. Looking at the bottom side of the car it seems the shell is held to the frame via 4 plastic 'clips' that protrude down into the bottom frame. Of course I'd like to take it off without breaking the shell. Any tips/suggestions?
Jarrell
Carefully pry each of those clips sideways and insert a toothpick to hold it in the open position; then carefully work the top off. IIRC, the windows are part of the top casting. There is only a single bulb in the center of the car and plastic light guides that are supposed to carry the light to the ends, but they don't. Any 14 to 16 Volt incandescent bulb should work okay as a replacement. Anything of a lesser voltage rating will just burn out again if you have DCC or run the train at a fast pace with a DC throttle set near max speed.
I changed the interior lighting to LEDs using white LED light strips (type LB1) purchased from Super Bright LEDs.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/light_bars-rigid.html
If you check the Bachmann web site's forum and do a search you will find your question answered.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php?board=1.0
Getting them open isn't too hard - getting them back together is another matter!! The electrical contacts STINK!!!!! I've replaced the lights in one with a Walthers DCC lighting kit & ran the wires from it to the trucks. The second one I did, I used a Rapido EasyPeasy kit - easy to do with great results - no "glowinh" body and no electrical problems!! Just my
Thanks Cacole for the excellent answer and the tip on the light strips!
cacole Carefully pry each of those clips sideways and insert a toothpick to hold it in the open position; then carefully work the top off. IIRC, the windows are part of the top casting. There is only a single bulb in the center of the car and plastic light guides that are supposed to carry the light to the ends, but they don't. Any 14 to 16 Volt incandescent bulb should work okay as a replacement. Anything of a lesser voltage rating will just burn out again if you have DCC or run the train at a fast pace with a DC throttle set near max speed.I changed the interior lighting to LEDs using white LED light strips (type LB1) purchased from Super Bright LEDs. http://www.superbrightleds.com/light_bars-rigid.html
Yes, you're correct. But then I'd miss the great tips other modelers have about using different lights. But I appreciate your help and the link you provided.
Thanks!
don7If you check the Bachmann web site's forum and do a search you will find your question answered. http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php?board=1.0
Thanks Lou. I had thought about the EasyPeasy kit but remembered a friend installed one in a passenger car and didn't like the results. I never saw the the car or the installation so it could be something he did or the way the inside top of the car was made. I think I might try one, it can't hurt.
lvanhenGetting them open isn't too hard - getting them back together is another matter!! The electrical contacts STINK!!!!! I've replaced the lights in one with a Walthers DCC lighting kit & ran the wires from it to the trucks. The second one I did, I used a Rapido EasyPeasy kit - easy to do with great results - no "glowinh" body and no electrical problems!! Just my
When installing Rapido lighting kit, how do you replace the batteries? Do you have to remove the roof to do it - in that case it's not so easy considering they are good only for 9 hours continuous hours as far as I recall (maybe 6 month of average use)
jacon12 Thanks Lou. I had thought about the EasyPeasy kit but remembered a friend installed one in a passenger car and didn't like the results. I never saw the the car or the installation so it could be something he did or the way the inside top of the car was made. I think I might try one, it can't hurt. Jarrell lvanhen Getting them open isn't too hard - getting them back together is another matter!! The electrical contacts STINK!!!!! I've replaced the lights in one with a Walthers DCC lighting kit & ran the wires from it to the trucks. The second one I did, I used a Rapido EasyPeasy kit - easy to do with great results - no "glowinh" body and no electrical problems!! Just my
lvanhen Getting them open isn't too hard - getting them back together is another matter!! The electrical contacts STINK!!!!! I've replaced the lights in one with a Walthers DCC lighting kit & ran the wires from it to the trucks. The second one I did, I used a Rapido EasyPeasy kit - easy to do with great results - no "glowinh" body and no electrical problems!! Just my
Based on Lou
s comment, I think having spare Kadee springs on hand to replace the contact springs is good. I've done it
-Morgan
trainsBuddy When installing Rapido lighting kit, how do you replace the batteries? Do you have to remove the roof to do it
When installing Rapido lighting kit, how do you replace the batteries? Do you have to remove the roof to do it
Yes, you have to remove the roof to get to the battery and replace it. But if you're going to go this route, clip off the bottom of the tabs so they don't lock into place and it will be much easier to open the car up in the future. You can also cut away the Bachmann electrical pickup springs on the sides of the car. As tight as the car fits together, it's unlikely that is will work loose.
Does Bachmann make a kit that I could use as I have 6 daylight cars without lights. Thanks