I have an old Roundhouse kit for an 0-6-0T that I'm going to start working on. As the kit is designerd, the fuel bunker has no detail at all. I've spent a fair amount of time on-line trying to find pictures of what the top should look like (filler hatch? breather pipe?, etc.) but haven't found anything. Not many photos even show the backside. Can anyone steer me to a photo or diagram? (click image for a large photobucket pic)
I also want to put in a working headlight. Problem is that the boiler and tank are filled with a solid metal insert nearly 3" in length. Any suggestions on how to run wires back from the headlight? The insert comes nearly to the back of the smoke box cover. With all the weight over the drivers this little guy should be a pretty good puller.
Chuck
Grand River & Monongah Railroad and subsidiary Monongah Railway
I would put a tank cover like the one between the stack and front sand box. If a coal burner, put a little coal on the flat surface using wet water. Some were able to carry about 1.5 tons of coal in the bunker.
Below is a link where you might catch a glimpse of a oil tank cover. Some of the switchers were oil fired.
The headlight was probably not used during the day. Your call.
http://members.trainweb.com/bedt/bedt/BEDTRosters.html
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Thanks for the link, Rich. I was able to see that many of the BEDT tank engines had a lid on both ends of the fuel bunker, which I never thought of.
For anyone wanting to detail a saddle tanker, that web site is an awesome source of information. Kind of makes me want to build a switching railroad like the BEDT. I saved that link to my "favorites" list.
I'm pretty sure that loco would be an oil burner, so a simple filler hatch (or two) would take care of the problem handily. A coal burner would have some coal boards extending up and back of the bunker.
For the headlight, I would get out the Dremel (if you don't have one, get one - the handiest power tool ever invented) and using a carving bit, cut a groove down the length of the weight and run the wires in the groove.
Have fun!
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Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
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"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
http://fhn.site90.net
Looks like gmcrail is correct according to the diagram below. Cut a notch in the weight.
MDC 0-6-0T diagram
http://www.hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionMdc/Assembly%20Explosion%2005L-2%200-6-0T%20Tank%20Switcher.jpg
Also, there are new replacement MDC motors for sale on ebay that I believe will fit your loco. I have the older MDC locos and they use a open frame motor with skewed armature and look identical to the new Roundhouse motors. They draw about 5.amp for comparison when I hold the worm from turning.
They run better than the older open frame like in the diagram.
Below is the diagram of the present Roundhouse locos and you can see the same gear arraignment.
http://www.hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionMdc/roundhouse440diagram.jpg
NWSL sells flywheels that will fit the motor shaft. They also have bushings that will fit the motor shaft and worm in case the shaft is smaller than the hole in the worm. I have successfully done that on some motor upgrades.
Something to consider. Below is a comparison of my 1998 MDC 2-6-0 and 2008 Roundhouse 2-6-0
The motor will probably fit your 0-6-0T. The motor and flywheel I have is 1.72” long, .396 wide, .603 high. It is a little shorter than the old MDC open frame motor.
Of course, if the loco is really old, the gear arraignment will be different so my suggestions will be a moot point.
Rich -
Thanks for all the good information. I appreciate it.