I have an unadorned HO Mantua 2-6-6-2 logger that I wish to label with decaled wording along its sides - something like, 'Lost Creek Logging'
This will be freehand decaling individual letters & I think I can get horizontal alignement ok using some soft tack masking tape as the line up base.
However, I am wondering what tricks people use to get the individual letters spaced correctly so that the lettering looks authentic & not a dogs breakfast??
Thank you
Tanked
The spacing is going to depend on the font used for the decal. It'll depend a lot on if it's a block or roman font. If you can match it closely with a computer font, I'd print out an example in a font size close to your decal. Then transfer the center lines of each character to your masking tape.
An article in MR had a guy build a 12" long x 2" deep (width to be determined) wooden box around a foam cradle. This box was built square, and then had a lip built into one side. Against this lip, he would put a 10" drafting 30-60-90 triangle and move it so that it lay over the model (the box had extra supports to keep the triangle from touching the model. By keeping the box square and the loco squared with the box, the triangle would show perfect alignment every time.
I suppose if you put a bottom lip on that same box and permently mounted a scale rule to it, one then use the triangle to set up letter spacing, too.
Paul A. Cutler III*******************Weather Or No Go New Haven*******************
TankedEngine I have an unadorned HO Mantua 2-6-6-2 logger that I wish to label with decaled wording along its sides - something like, 'Lost Creek Logging' This will be freehand decaling individual letters & I think I can get horizontal alignement ok using some soft tack masking tape as the line up base. However, I am wondering what tricks people use to get the individual letters spaced correctly so that the lettering looks authentic & not a dogs breakfast?? Thank you Tanked
Most of the advice above is good, but a bit complicated. I letter most of my equipment with alphabet sheet decals, and there's a much simpler way to do it. You seem to already have a method for the horizontal alignment. Determine the center of the area that will receive the words you're planining to use to letter the roadname. Determine which letter is the center one of the name you'll be spelling out, "Lost Creek Logging" has 18 characters in it (count the spaces as one character each), meaning that the line between the second "E" and the "K" in "Creek" is the center of your roadname. Put the "K" to the right of the center mark on your model, the "E" to the left, and place each letter in position moving out from the center. It will be easy to space them by eye from each other with this method.
This definately fits the K.I.S.S. principle.
AlreadyInUseThe spacing is going to depend on the font used for the decal. It'll depend a lot on if it's a block or roman font. If you can match it closely with a computer font, I'd print out an example in a font size close to your decal. Then transfer the center lines of each character to your masking tape.
To add to a great idea, cut out the printed example and tape it on the masking tape. Just set each decal over its matching letter!
John
If everybody is thinking alike, then nobody is really thinking.
http://photobucket.com/tandarailroad/
TomDiehl Determine which letter is the center one of the name you'll be spelling out, "Lost Creek Logging" has 18 characters in it (count the spaces as one character each), meaning that the line between the second "E" and the "K" in "Creek" is the center of your roadname. Put the "K" to the right of the center mark on your model, the "E" to the left, and place each letter in position moving out from the center. It will be easy to space them by eye from each other with this method.
Determine which letter is the center one of the name you'll be spelling out, "Lost Creek Logging" has 18 characters in it (count the spaces as one character each), meaning that the line between the second "E" and the "K" in "Creek" is the center of your roadname. Put the "K" to the right of the center mark on your model, the "E" to the left, and place each letter in position moving out from the center. It will be easy to space them by eye from each other with this method.
That only works if the letters are all the same width.
I like jfallon's idea better.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Sign seen at grocery store:
Chicken Alphabet Soup -- $1
Chicken Alphabet Soup Alphabetized -- $2
Since you may want to letter your cabooses and home-road cars too, why not order some customized decals? That can make life much easier.
Mark
Phoebe Vet TomDiehl Determine which letter is the center one of the name you'll be spelling out, "Lost Creek Logging" has 18 characters in it (count the spaces as one character each), meaning that the line between the second "E" and the "K" in "Creek" is the center of your roadname. Put the "K" to the right of the center mark on your model, the "E" to the left, and place each letter in position moving out from the center. It will be easy to space them by eye from each other with this method. That only works if the letters are all the same width. I like jfallon's idea better.
It's been my experience that letters of he same font are usually the same (or close to the same) width.
And is definately still the K.I.S.S method, even though you edited that part out.
Why individual letters? the cost of custom decals isn't all that much considering the cost of your sanity will be involved.I have done dry transfer letters and individual peel and stick on letter for signage on larger industrial buildings and it was no treat especially if you have arthritic fat fingers like me. If your really interested in going the low budget route get the sheet decal paper from Walthers and make your own.
A trick sign painters use is pounce a pattern and hit it with chalk. A pounce wheel is has small pin sized points the go around the circumference of a metal wheel. You trace out what you want to pain with the wheel as the pattern is taped in place. For what your trying to do I would print it out on plane white paper and *** holes around the outline of the words and then tape it in place where you think you want it. now rub some blue or white chalk dust onto the pattern the chalk should find it's way through the holes and onto lets say the tender if thats where you want the lettering to go. Remove the pattern and see how it looks if you like it place your decal right over the top of the chalked pattern. Your not putting a whole heap of chalk on so it will wash off with the water form the decal. I know this works on larger stuff as I did our G scale loco and cars this way but doing it on a small scale like HO may be a bit of a chore. You may just want to use a piece of fine line masking tape as a straight edge guide. You know the real thin stuff sold in auto body supplies or auto parts stores.
Where does one find makers of customized decals??
Thanks
Try looking in the pages of Model Railroad and RMC for ads from custom decal makers.
You could also try to Google "Don Manlick", someone my club has used repeatedly over the years.Rail Graphics is available:http://www.railgraphicsdecals.com/
Kadee makes custom decals:http://www.kadee.com/printing/custom.htm
And so does Microscale:http://www.microscale.com/custom.htm
davidmbedard TomDiehlIt's been my experience that letters of the same font are usually the same (or close to the same) width. And is definately still the K.I.S.S method, even though you edited that part out. Call me crazy, but the "I" seems to be a tad bit narrower than the "K" or the "S"s. David B
TomDiehlIt's been my experience that letters of the same font are usually the same (or close to the same) width. And is definately still the K.I.S.S method, even though you edited that part out.
Call me crazy, but the "I" seems to be a tad bit narrower than the "K" or the "S"s.
David B
Yes, the "I" is narrower than any other letter. on 1/8 inch Railroad Roman decals, the "I" is 3/32 inch (.093) wide, and all others are 5/32 inch (.156) wide.
The lettering on both of these locomotives, as well as many others I've done, were decalled with this method. The lettering center point was between the flat panel on the rear and the back of the cab.
If you're bound and determined to go to a lot more bother, and make a job more complicated than it needs to be, knock yourself out. I'm offering the way I do it, take it or leave it.
And to add something to make jfallon's idea even simpler (feel free to ignore this and do things the hard way if you like), unless you're talking about white lettering, if you're going to print the lettering out anyway, why not print it directly on decal paper.
Way back in the dark ages, before computerized typesetting, newspaper (and magazine) copy editors used to have to count the characters in headlines
Most characters get a "1" count, but some, i, l, t, j, f, get a half count
Some get a 1 1/2 count, w, m
But at 1/87 actual size, it really isn't going to be noticeable
An easy way to space the letters is to tape a bit of graph paper close to where you're applying your letters
Eric
I wish I was a headlight
On a northbound train